tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8100907477998210572024-02-18T21:03:21.501-06:00Dispatches from the Wild WorldThoughts and Ramblings on Adventure and TravelIt all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.comBlogger96125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-23823492756787766682021-05-11T21:38:00.000-05:002021-05-11T21:38:47.909-05:00St. Croix River Maine
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
The idea
was to boldly go where no man....well you know the rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We wanted to take a paddling trip in Maine
while avoiding the madding crowd.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our
first thought was the Allagash, the state’s most famous waterway and the first
Maine river most<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>paddlers think of, a
fact that virtually guarantees crowds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But after contacting Martin Brown, the proprietor of Sunrise County
Canoe Expeditions in the far eastern part of the state, our destination was
decided.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“I have a better river for
you.” said Martin “Give the St. Croix a try.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Martin is the guru of northwoods canoeing and his advice is not lightly
ignored.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The St. Croix has no crowds
and the water and scenery are as good as the Allagash if not better.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>OK Martin, we’re hooked.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So we find ourselves paddling
through the dawn mist of Lake Spednik, watching a warming early June sun appear
over the eastern tree line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We finally
realize why Brown’s company is called Sunrise County.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are probably the first Americans to
witness this day’s sunrise since Lake Spednik lies on the eastern boundary of
the United States.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trees that are
slowly<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>revealing the orange sun are in
Canada and we are but a few hundred yards from the international border.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>This long, thin finger of a lake
separates Maine and Canada, the international border an invisible line cutting
more or less through the middle of its cold water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will cross this border dozens of times
over the next week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake flows south
into the St. Croix River, the easternmost river in the United States.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Brushing against New Brunswick on its left
bank, it is hard to believe that this small lively river is a boundary between
two major countries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Camp on the left
side of the St. Croix and you’re in Canada, camp on the right and you’re in the
United States.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Martin recommended that we put in
along the shores of the lake and spend a couple of days exploring its bays,
fingers, and islands before heading downstream on the St. Croix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I questioned the wisdom of his advice as our
shuttle driver Jim sped down a narrow dirt two-track to the lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jim was relating a story about a couple who
whined and complained through the duration of a Rio Grande trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the while I watched the bow of my
roof-racked canoe bash and scrape through the limbs and branches of the
overhead tree canopy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not wanting to
join the rolls in Jim’s pantheon of griping customers, I peered ahead for
overhanging limbs and decided to shut my mouth unless an overhanging branch the
size of a telephone pole made destruction appear imminent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt like the lookout on the Titanic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was intently peering through the rushing
limbs ahead when Jim stood on the brakes and brought the van to a sliding halt
in a spray of gravel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked up
through the windshield expecting to see our canoe impaled on the limb of a
maple. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Moose!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Jim pointed to a huge female moose calmly eating her way through
floating vegetation in a bog next to the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We hadn’t even hit the water yet and we’d already bagged a moose—a good
sign, especially to my son, Michael.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One
of his major goals on this trip is to see “mucho moose” and Lake Spednik
already provided his first sighting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Lake Spednik is typical of north
country lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few cabins are visible
from the water but for the most part, signs of humans are absent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While not truly a wilderness<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>area, evidence of civilization along the
river and lake is sparse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake teems
with landlocked salmon, lake trout, and smallmouth bass and the surrounding
forests are home to sizable numbers of moose, as we’ve already learned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maples, aspen, and birch trees crowd to the
water’s edge, and the shore line is rocky and abrupt, leaving little choice of
landing spots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Campsites are problematic
but not absent, and set up our tent at an abandoned fish camp in a small
cove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just back from the shoreline, an
ancient cabin, cleaved dead center by a giant fallen spruce, lies forlorn and
deserted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An experienced logger couldn’t
have felled the tree any neater, the massive trunk lying dead center through
the structure’s middle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The log walls
are all that remain standing, the roof smashed and splintered under the
trunk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We imagine the surprise of the
owners as they returned to find their outpost destroyed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The camp appears to have been abandoned in a
fit of resigned defeat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An old table and
chairs sit broken and rotting near the now flattened front door. and the guts
of a fifties-vintage outboard motor lie under a blanket of pine needles.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Lake Spednik empties into the St.
Croix River at the village of Vanceboro, Maine, a wide spot in the road with a
U.S. Customs house guarding the bridge between the two countries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A smattering of houses and a couple of small
stores huddle against the American side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Vanceboro Dam, which impounds the waters of the lake, requires a
200-yard portage on the American side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We carry our canoe and supplies around the dam and wave at Canadians
across the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hard to believe that
this small and friendly town was once the site of international intrigue when a
German sympathizer attempted to blow up the local railroad bridge to prevent
Canadian war supplies from being shipped to Britain.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Below the dam, the trip changes from
flatwater lake canoeing to lively Class I and II paddling through the frequent
small rapids and riffles of the St. Croix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The water is crystal clear and the river bottom is lined with sunken
logs, the legacy of the St. Croix’s role in a thriving lumber industry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For over a century, the river was a vital
transportation route for loggers; logs were floated downstream to the sawmills
and many sank along the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They still
remain a century later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As with Lake
Spednik, the St. Croix is relatively undeveloped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Occasional cabins can be spotted along the
banks but Vanceboro is the only major sign of civilization we see for a week.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The highlight of the river is Little
Falls, the most challenging water we will run.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The river constricts between two bluffs forming the two-hundred-yard
Class III rapid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We take out on the
portage trail on the right and carry our supplies to the downstream landing,
then return to our canoe to run the rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Little Falls is a short but exciting run requiring some skill in
navigating between large boulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below
Little Falls a series of small rapids make for fast and exciting paddling for
much of the rest of the river’s length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We make camp at Tyler Rips, one of the prettier rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The next day we face an almost
continuous series of rapids culminating in Haycock Rips, one of the last major
rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below Haycock Rips, the river
widens and slows down into the calm waters of Loon Bay, the site of a battle
between the Passamaquoddy Indians and invading Mohawks in the 1700’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An unlikely battlefield, the water separates
two marshy and rather mundane looking meadows, belying the dramatic history of
the bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Below Loon Bay, the river flows
languidly, pooling into expansive marshy meadows extending back for hundreds of
yards on both sides of the river--prime moose habitat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These low open meadows are overgrown with
lily pads, and are interlaced with open ponds connected by narrow water trails
bordered by head high cattails.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Irresistible
for canoe exploration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We glide silently
over the lily pads, expecting to come face to face with a grazing moose any
moment but all we see are osprey and bald eagles wheeling overhead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“I thought we would see moose all over this
place.” Michael moans, “I don’t think there are any moose within fifty miles of
us.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Our exploration is cut short by the
arrival of a fine drizzly rain, which soon turns into a heavy downpour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hastily make camp on the Canada side, just
upstream from a large bog surrounding a small brook rushing into the St.
Croix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A short hike around the fringes
of the bog proves Michael’s speculation wrong: huge moose prints are everywhere
and he stakes out the bog for much of the evening hoping to spot one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently moose like the rain less than he
does; he returns to camp at twilight without a sighting.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Our last day takes us across Grand
Falls Flowage, a wide and confusing jumble of islands, bays, and points.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are glad that we brought a topographic map
along and after frequent consultations over it, we find the take out
point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we unload our canoe, another
group of canoeists pulls in behind us, the only other canoes we have seen all
week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Until just now, we saw more moose
than canoes.” Michael says.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t argue
with that, nor with the advice of Martin Brown: the St. Croix offers all of the
attractions of the Allagash, without the crowds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p> </o:p></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">FACT FILE</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
Getting
there:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From Bangor, take Interstate 95
north to Route 6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Follow route 6 east to
the town of Topsfield, then turn north on Highway 1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a number of potential put in
points, most reached by poorly marked country roads; it is best to check with
the outfitter before embarking.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
Outfitter:
Sunrise County Canoe Expeditions, Inc. Cathance Lake, Grove Post Office, Maine
04638. (207)-454-7708.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
Trip
duration:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Three to five days, depending
on put in points and your mood.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
Camping:
Primitive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Campsites with toilets and
fire rings are scattered on the American and Canadian sides.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="border: currentColor; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in;">
Best
season: Spring and fall, although the river is runnable all year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The autumn foliage in September is
spectacular.<o:p></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-71080918324033570682020-04-18T15:21:00.002-05:002020-04-18T15:21:27.930-05:00Elk River Tennessee Canoe Run<strong><em>A version of this article originally appeared in the Huntsville Times.</em></strong><br />
<div class="WordSection1">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="WordSection1">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
My son was itching for a day away
with Dad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I needed a short trip
somewhere out of the city for a few hours of adventure and fun, a little
father-son bonding time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides, it was
hot in the city, a typical <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Valley</st1:placetype></st1:place> summer day and we
needed to head for somewhere cool to beat the oppressive heat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we loaded up our canoe and headed for
southern <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:place></st1:state>
and the <st1:place w:st="on">Elk River</st1:place>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
An hour later after a
drive through the scenic hills of Lincoln County, we were sipping a cold drink
on a well-worn bench inside Kelso Canteen and Canoe Rental in Kelso,
Tennessee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were looking for an easy
half-day paddle and Cole Hereford, the proprietor of the canteen pulled a
well-worn map out from under the counter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He laid the map out on a counter and showed us a run that would begin
with our launch at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Shiloh</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Bridge</st1:placetype></st1:place>, a popular access
point, and take us nine miles downstream to Stump Shoals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hereford</st1:place></st1:city>
suggested this run as an easy outing that would take four to six hours to
paddle, depending on our ambition (or lack thereof). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Take the run to the right when you get to <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Dickey</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>,”
he advised, “The river is narrower but it’s prettier on the right.”<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVHoxZCXZ6bS4GgQdH4IP-S3LPAQj1q6GhmRp4lXbEB0WcN3a2OePuaueW-F88CvvhN1EGpK7vuuXxWFxJneNi87_0E9tUbhfclHaSaeL8jHrIXcmBQgxOBUJcgLQ88ViI3BuY4DuXOE/s1600/100_3543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHVHoxZCXZ6bS4GgQdH4IP-S3LPAQj1q6GhmRp4lXbEB0WcN3a2OePuaueW-F88CvvhN1EGpK7vuuXxWFxJneNi87_0E9tUbhfclHaSaeL8jHrIXcmBQgxOBUJcgLQ88ViI3BuY4DuXOE/s400/100_3543.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hereford</st1:place></st1:city> had agreed to drive us to the launch
point and then shuttle our car to the Stump Shoals takeout.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we drove our car to the river, I asked him
if we needed to worry about rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“This is an easy run.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>he assured
us,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“You don’t need to worry about
rapids.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had second thoughts about this
statement after he had dropped us off and we launched our canoe into the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had barely set foot into the stern when the
swift current grabbed the bow of the canoe and swung it around in a quick arc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Surely this brisk current would mean
rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He also forgot to mention how
chilly the water was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The water flows
out of the bottom of the dam that forms Tims Ford Lake near Lynchburg,
Tennessee, and the deep lake prevents the sun from warming the discharge—a fact
that quickly became apparent when the cold water lapped around our ankles.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2OUd8qlugPGFN2sq0JnXJZ1EsEAYEMJ7fl3SybqnDF4VHrhyphenhyphenqCFi_WmyNUN6VjfgtSTFM6KvLCYW4aKt3o7YNxZz73Ld5UyjSFnbJBSR0CWLvWW8gGvLKLy8QNBz3y-nkJEGvFfHNaY/s1600/100_3493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2OUd8qlugPGFN2sq0JnXJZ1EsEAYEMJ7fl3SybqnDF4VHrhyphenhyphenqCFi_WmyNUN6VjfgtSTFM6KvLCYW4aKt3o7YNxZz73Ld5UyjSFnbJBSR0CWLvWW8gGvLKLy8QNBz3y-nkJEGvFfHNaY/s320/100_3493.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
We had barely dipped our
paddles into the clear ripples when we spied a fly-fisherman near a gravel bar
on the far side of the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hereford</st1:place></st1:city> had mentioned
that the Elk supports a healthy population of trout and smallmouth bass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped to chat and check on fishing
activity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“No luck so far” he reported
“but I sure wish I had brought my waders. This water is COLD!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were looking for a respite from the heat
and we had found it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cold water and
the hot summer air mixed to form a wispy mist that hung over the water in the
stillness, reflecting rays of sunlight through the leafy cover of the
overhanging trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The air was cool and
refreshing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
The <st1:place w:st="on">Elk
River</st1:place> flows through the hills of southern <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:place></st1:state> and into <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>, where it meets the <st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee River</st1:place> near Rogersville.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Between Tims Ford and the <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state> border, the Elk is a forest‑lined,
free‑running stream that provides a refreshing, leisurely float.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stretch of river below the dam to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Fayetteville</st1:place></st1:city> offers over
30 miles of undisturbed river bordered by pretty southern <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:place></st1:state> scenery, lots of wildlife, and
numerous small farms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The land is hilly
and rural, with a few small towns nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The water flows clear and clean and the river is narrow and shallow most
of the way—although some deep pools form in the river bends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wooded banks reach to the very edge of the
water and the sky overhead is often barely glimpsed through overhanging
branches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We encountered frequent gravel
bars where we could beach our canoe and get out to stretch our legs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the river is edged by
twenty-to-thirty-foot bluffs of rocky ledges stair-stepping from the river to
the forest above. A couple of hours into our trip we came across a boggy branch
that was barely seeping into the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The pebble-strewn ground appeared to be covered with a bright<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>blue and yellow quilt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we paddled closer we saw hundreds of
butterflies--tiny bright blue one and swarms of large yellow ones—resting in
the bright mid-day sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They flitted around
our heads as we approached in a magical cloud of color.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Paddling the Elk is a lazy way to
spend a summer afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our concerns
about the swiftness of the river were put to rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Turns out Hereford was right, there were no
rapids to upset us, just occasional gentle ripples—but also enough current to
keep us from having to paddle too hard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Just right for a slow-moving summer day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><o:p></o:p></span><br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">
</span>
</div>
<div class="MsoBodyTextIndent" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The heat had driven other refuge seekers to
the Elk and in our four hours of paddling, we frequently waved to other
canoeists on the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the Elk is
never overrun with rowdy crowds of floaters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Our weekend run was typical.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As
we lazily floated through a tunnel of hickory and sycamore trees, a
white-tailed deer trotted across a shallow shoal thirty yards ahead of us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her flanks were outlined by the morning sun
behind her, highlighting her tawny coat and turning the splashing water into a
shower of diamonds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked around to
see if other canoes were sharing the sight, but we were alone with her. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxRESzwqmyQULKByOFKsauzLxPW_N2CiAX3Ms0lSshteOH2Nzh1o3t5BNIkl-DRgq6rgLpqw6F0sM5_th7JLJvQ1xAMXhdnVBYlN_6xPT5CVrm8PvF33Dry-3WXlVxPbqfj236w8dbx0/s1600/GOPR3113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxRESzwqmyQULKByOFKsauzLxPW_N2CiAX3Ms0lSshteOH2Nzh1o3t5BNIkl-DRgq6rgLpqw6F0sM5_th7JLJvQ1xAMXhdnVBYlN_6xPT5CVrm8PvF33Dry-3WXlVxPbqfj236w8dbx0/s320/GOPR3113.JPG" width="320" /></a>Oh, and <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hereford</st1:place></st1:city> was right about going to the right
at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Dickey</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>, too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s the prettiest part of the river.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Kelso Canteen and Canoe Rental is
located seven miles east of <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Fayetteville</st1:place></st1:city>
on Highway 64.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The number is
800-933-2827.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Canoe rentals, shuttles,
and campsites are available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Elk River
Canoe Rentals also provides canoe rentals and shuttles at 931-937-6886.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
This a serene run below Tims Ford
is quiet and relatively unused.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
thirty-mile stretch from the dam to Fayetteville is narrow and shallow, with wooded
banks reaching to the very edge of the water and the sky overhead often barely
glimpsed through overhanging branches, the Elk flows over gentle ripples and
through calm pools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dam above and
the backwaters of the <st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee River</st1:place> below do
not affect the ageless flow of the river here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
A canoe rental operation provides
access to the river so the chances are good that you will see other canoeists
on the water during the summer, but the Elk is never overrun with rowdy crowds
of floaters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A late summer run we made
down the Elk is typical of the river's character.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lazily floating through a tunnel of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hickory and sycamore trees, we were casting
for smallmouth bass when a whitetailed deer trotted across the river through a
small riffle thirty yards ahead of us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Her flanks were outlined by the summer sun behind her, highlighting her
tawny coat and turning the splashing water into a shower of diamonds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I looked around to see if other canoes were
sharing the sight, but we were alone with her. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
</div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-61132869119774837012020-04-18T15:12:00.002-05:002020-05-08T09:14:45.911-05:00Amicalola Falls State Park<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-cxmxashZRYhnyjs-XHKk9l3Fxp4LpFXaRVhRPPt-DEkgbCCNu-x1JR3gl8yUhHHmTXEqAv8C1IarRAWBmElGhViGdc4FFyBHzg7Ku1wkoUZj4_PNYbKe7P2xf8WH7uC8On1yYNxu0o/s1600/OIP+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="180" data-original-width="203" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-cxmxashZRYhnyjs-XHKk9l3Fxp4LpFXaRVhRPPt-DEkgbCCNu-x1JR3gl8yUhHHmTXEqAv8C1IarRAWBmElGhViGdc4FFyBHzg7Ku1wkoUZj4_PNYbKe7P2xf8WH7uC8On1yYNxu0o/s400/OIP+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Georgia’s Springer Mountain means something to hikers on the
Appalachian Trail (AT).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s either the
long-awaited end to a southbound trek on the AT, or the highly anticipated
beginning of a northbound journey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Either way, this southern terminus of the AT has become indelibly etched
in the memories of thousands of AT hikers who vividly remember setting off from
or ending up on Springer Mountain.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Given the 2,150-mile length of the AT, the last thing most
hikers want to think of is adding yet more miles to their trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But by appending a mere eight miles, hikers
can add a couple of very enjoyable memories to their AT experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The gently sloping Southern Terminus Approach Trail
continues south from the AT at Springer Mountain through the Chattahoochee
National Forest, following the last gasps of the Blue Ridge Mountains as they
peter out in northern Georgia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trail
eventually ends up in Amicalola Falls State Park a 1500-acre state park that is
becoming increasingly popular with hikers from nearby Atlanta.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The state park has campsites, cottages and a
lodge and is home to its namesake, Amicalola Falls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Falls--which is actually seven separate
cascades—is the southeast’s tallest waterfall, tumbling 729 feet down a
terraced mountainside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This stair-step
tumble forms a splashy and spectacular display that disappears and reappears
through the thick southern forests wreathing the falls. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many AT hikers use the state park as their embarkation or
debarkation point for the AT.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And quite
a few more day hikers sample the forested highlands of northern Georgia using
the Approach Trail, which begins just behind the Upper Falls parking lot at the
park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From there it’s a steady uphill
climb for the next eight miles as the trail follows the ridgeline up Frosty
Mountain into the cool reaches of the southern Appalachians.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add this leg to your Appalachian Trail
experience and you’ll have the backdrop of the falls to add to your
recollections.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The approach trail is
wooded and although it follows the top of Frosty Mountain for much of its
length, not particularly scenic.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is another alternative that is more scenic and
provides an even more unforgettable supplement to your AT experience. This is
the Len Foote Hike Inn Trail, which also begins in the Upper Falls parking
lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This trail climbs upward into the
mountains for five miles, crossing sparkling mountain streams, meandering
through blossoming mountain laurel thickets and tunneling under towering
rhododendron, eventually joining the approach trail about 3-1/2 miles before
Springer Mountain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clinging to the side
of the mountain, the trail periodically breaks out of the surrounding green
shield to reveal startlingly expansive vistas of the Georgia countryside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the best surprise comes at the end of the trail: the
welcoming gray outline of Len Foote Hike Inn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This backcountry lodge opened in November of 1998 and is one of the
newest additions to Georgia’s state park system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The five-mile trail is the only way to reach
the inn but that hasn’t deterred a steady stream of hikers from trekking up the
mountain to experience its unique mixture of simplicity and comfort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lodge, a complex of twenty rooms
surrounding an airy, two-story central lobby, and an attached dining room,
bathhouse (with hot showers), and common room, is a modern, rustic structure
with plenty of windows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The inn sits
amidst a lush forest of mountain laurel, rhododendron, and majestic oak and hickory
trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Continue another mile past the
Inn and the trail runs into the Approach Trail and continues on to Springer
Mountain.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Inn offers a comfortable decompression before setting
out on the AT or a welcome and warm ending after finishing up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sitting 3100 feet up near the peak of Frosty
Mountain, it overlooks a scenic panorama of the surrounding area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At night you can see the twinkling lights of
the city of Dahlonega off to the southeast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But to the east and north all is dark, the thick forests undeveloped and
pitch black.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(In case you are wondering
who Len Foote is, he was a Georgia outdoorsman who was the model for the “Mark
Trail” comic strip).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If a night of R
& R at the Inn isn’t enough to convince you to set out for Mt. Katahdin on
the other end of the AT, you can still do some hiking within the park to whet
your appetite. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Day hikers use the park’s Falls Trail and the East and West
Ridge Trails.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Falls Trail is
actually a steep but easy path that winds from the foot of the falls, following
the cascade up the mountain to the top of the falls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The East Ridge Trail is also an easy 2.5
miles loop that begins and ends at the park’s visitor’s center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This trail leads to an overlook at the top of
the falls that doesn’t really give a great view of the falls since you’re
basically standing at the top over and behind the waterfall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it does offer a nice look at the north
Georgia forests in the valley below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From here the hike is a piece of cake—payback for the uphill stretch you
just covered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This part of the loop is
downhill all the way back to the visitor’s center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Follow the West Ridge Spring Road to the West
Ridge Trail to Upper West Ridge Trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You’ll come to another overlook, this one with a better view of
Amicalola Falls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a rest with the
mist of the falls cooling your face, continue down the mountain back to your
starting spot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you’re an AT thru-hiker experiencing the park as a an
appetizer or dessert to your journey, or a day hiker making your entire trip a
day or two there, add Amicalola Falls State Park to your itinerary to
experience this bit of northern Georgia wilderness.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Details: </b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Amicalola Falls State Park is located near
Dawsonville, GA, about sixty-five miles from Atlanta. The park has 17
campsites, 14 cottages, and a lodge with restaurant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The park’s information number is
706-265-8888.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Reservations for the Len
Foote Hike Inn can be made at 800-864-7275.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-80850237969078236802020-04-18T15:09:00.000-05:002020-04-18T15:09:11.713-05:00Crescent Lake National Wildlife Refuge<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">In the Spring of 1847 William Clayton and Orson Pratt, among
the first white men to travel into Nebraska’s Sandhills region, gazed out over
the unbroken grass-covered sand dunes extending to the horizon and described
them as a “tumultuous confusion of ocean waves” and looking like “large drifts
of snow”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One hundred and sixty eight
years later I could describe the still-intact vista before me in those same
terms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While much of the Sandhills
region of the western part of the state has been plowed, fenced and bulldozed,
a large remnant has avoided this fate and remains relatively pristine within
the boundaries of Crescent Lake National Wildlife Refuge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">While thousands of pioneers passed through the region on the
nearby Mormon Trail few stayed, passing on in their relentless march to the
gold fields and plains further west.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
few hardy souls elected to stay and try their hands at ranching or farming but
the Sandhills were never heavily populated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>So in 1931 the establishment of Crescent Lake National Wildlife Refuge met
with little resistance or little fanfare.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">The refuge was established to conserve waterfowl populations,
a goal which it has achieved to a spectacular degree and my primary reason for
being here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After hearing tales of the
raw nature of the place, the huge numbers of waterfowl, raptors and other birds
and healthy herds of pronghorn antelope and mule and white-tailed deer I had to
make the trek to check it out myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Which is how I found myself standing atop a 400-foot high hill near the refuge
headquarters building.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">The vista below me is stunning--I gaze 360 degrees to the
horizon and do not spy a single dwelling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As far as the eye can see the ground gently undulates with smooth swales
and grassy dunes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here and there small
lakes and wetlands sparkle in the sunlight. But here’s what I don’t see:
campsites, picnic tables, pavilions, toilet facilities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, nowhere do I see another human. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In other words, this is not a place for casual
visitors and tourists looking for a free and easy day with a touch of
nature.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the outdoors at its
untouched best and it’s hard not to get nostalgic when scanning this primitive
land.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 45,849 acres of the refuge are
isolated and lonesome.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you want to
escape the madding crowd this is the place.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCbKTrkWCK98iPIHNuw4zpJx7EUWjhQJVgR2Pr7n9PYbOWGYDkWd4FEN6P07dC6HF77HS3l3Jaa7OVfqmheC_Zs-RxtG8HrhbSLp7VHUElL_9jzmANMNdM0h6rQk4Xslp-3Q_dzCQMlg/s1600/untitled.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="132" data-original-width="176" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzCbKTrkWCK98iPIHNuw4zpJx7EUWjhQJVgR2Pr7n9PYbOWGYDkWd4FEN6P07dC6HF77HS3l3Jaa7OVfqmheC_Zs-RxtG8HrhbSLp7VHUElL_9jzmANMNdM0h6rQk4Xslp-3Q_dzCQMlg/s400/untitled.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Refuge manager Rod Wittenberg says the refuge is lightly
visited.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <span style="font-family: "calibri";">“We get a good number of hunters—pheasant and deer hunters,
and a small but steady number of fishermen,” he says.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“And it is popular with birdwatchers. But it
is very remote so we don’t get a lot of spur-of-the-moment visitors.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is right; the refuge is a long drive from
almost anywhere,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The two nearest towns
are Oshkosh and Alliance and either gateway town requires a 20 mile drive over
gravel two-lane—and in some places one-lane—roads.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">So after a leisurely drive from Oshkosh I set out to explore
the far reaches of the refuge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not an
easy task because the land is not inviting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Sandhills live up to their name, the shifting and seemingly
bottomless sand presenting a challenge to even four wheel drive vehicles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a limited number of two track roads
into the heart of the refuge and they should be attacked carefully—miring up to
your axle is easy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I opted to pull on
my hiking boots and hike into the hinterlands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Even this is not a piece of cake because hiking the dunes and swales is
an arduous task since you sink into the soft sand with every step.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And there are few hiking trails so you are
hiking off-trail.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1LL5QYlZtfIYe4NlQkyiJN3citoeiGDr5W-E9gAU20CLtOKsM35meg6DwC7FOTRr-R3bI_-Y5VVfKRB3kzY49OPGenxwZSZAn-OxzvjxV-2dWAaqX26ql99pXccveB-oDboxsx4kAzg/s1600/OIP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="164" data-original-width="292" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO1LL5QYlZtfIYe4NlQkyiJN3citoeiGDr5W-E9gAU20CLtOKsM35meg6DwC7FOTRr-R3bI_-Y5VVfKRB3kzY49OPGenxwZSZAn-OxzvjxV-2dWAaqX26ql99pXccveB-oDboxsx4kAzg/s400/OIP.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">But it’s all worth the effort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The refuge provides nesting habitat, overwintering
home and a migration stop for 275 bird species. If you are a birder you will
delight at the numbers of waterfowl that include a dozen varieties of ducks,
greater white-fronted geese, tundra swans, eared and western grebes and
American bitterns and white pelicans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Avid birders can easily spot ring-necked pheasant, bald eagles,
sharp-tailed grouse and burrowing owls.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">In addition to the birdlife, the refuge is home to coyotes,
swift fox, white-tailed and mule deer, pronghorns and muskrat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-25506537729692152242020-04-18T15:02:00.008-05:002021-05-11T17:44:54.881-05:00Mississippi Sharks!<div><br /></div><b>A version of this article originally appeared in <i>Mississippi Magazine</i>.<br /> Photos by George Lee.</b><br /><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekwqUZzZEwwNRQpIRp-kXk5kfP2EctTSIze3BqMEOaF-EnYarIVtgj3L6fsJ1Z5yUNDLNgHhPcpr_LGeqKltNsH1_xejv9-5LB31kC58GfrGz4-mgHZiX4v4hLLsBkjZN-G8MUnB2JUw/s1600/32756168037_7aaa9862e8_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekwqUZzZEwwNRQpIRp-kXk5kfP2EctTSIze3BqMEOaF-EnYarIVtgj3L6fsJ1Z5yUNDLNgHhPcpr_LGeqKltNsH1_xejv9-5LB31kC58GfrGz4-mgHZiX4v4hLLsBkjZN-G8MUnB2JUw/s320/32756168037_7aaa9862e8_o.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
The thrashing shark I’m holding is both intimidating and awe inspiring. I think I should be afraid, after all Jaws and a host of other movies and TV shows convince us that sharks are constantly lurking about hoping to devour us on a whim. But feeling the taut muscles and smooth skin of the sleek shark is more inspiring than scary.<span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /> <br /></span></span> I accompanied a team of marine biologists from the Gulf Coast Research Laboratory (GCRL) at the University of Southern Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico, assisting in the capture, tagging, and data collection of dozens of sharks and other fish. The team conducts a shark study funded by the Southeast Area Mapping and Assessment Program (SEAMAP), a joint federal/state/university program that monitors long term coastal shark population trends.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwHEQTAnFOCoq_3i88rUeZEB-IHfCB0TO25N3ng32AO7NjHlVaw3vq24GmJuw5OZgIz2N3gFKEduCzpujw4VlyfsLWXTR0syLudmh2ta4gTWMotW0XL67Vvya-xAu4D62GVxzbKjCciU/s1600/33821951528_e938fd5fd1_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPwHEQTAnFOCoq_3i88rUeZEB-IHfCB0TO25N3ng32AO7NjHlVaw3vq24GmJuw5OZgIz2N3gFKEduCzpujw4VlyfsLWXTR0syLudmh2ta4gTWMotW0XL67Vvya-xAu4D62GVxzbKjCciU/s320/33821951528_e938fd5fd1_o.jpg" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"></span></span></div>
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span><br />The program conducts expeditions into waters around the barrier islands off of Biloxi, capturing and tagging sharks in the Mississippi Sound around the Mississippi barrier islands from March through October. The objective of the program is to collect information on coastal sharks to determine species populations and distribution in order to better understand and maintain Gulf Coast shark populations.<div><br /></div><div> On a sunny April morning we boarded the R/V Jim Franks, a 60-foot aluminum research vessel and made a 90 minute run to Petit Bois Island where we set out a longline, a mile-long line of 1200-pound monofilament line with a hook baited with Atlantic mackerel every 50 feet. We let the line soak in 20 feet of water for an hour and then hauled it in, hoping to have hooks full of sharks. Things did not look promising as we winched the line in. The first dozen hooks were empty.-foot aluminum research vessel and made a 90 minute run to Petit Bois Island where we set out a longline, a mile-long line of 1200-pound monofilament line with a hook baited with Atlantic mackerel every 50 feet. We let the line soak in 20 feet of water for an hour and then hauled it in, hoping to have hooks full of sharks. Things did not look promising as we winched the line in. The first dozen or so hooks were empty. <br /><div style="background: white; line-height: normal;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="color: white;"><span> a sunny April morning we boarded the R/V Jim </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span face=""calibri" , "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 11pt;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPOndTCEl7-0Wz8gO3XntVoTQNzap8k3fCyoqfcv2uV4O1ZdcpWifx7KxoekRA3YRvyKaOsEIEkDmVYYaGq2ZWswdefRkK5U4n0RMk0UHkGlI6eYWdt4jU0EbcCl2lJm8HdDuJxgA7Ko/s1600/47646229912_a2d365489a_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPOndTCEl7-0Wz8gO3XntVoTQNzap8k3fCyoqfcv2uV4O1ZdcpWifx7KxoekRA3YRvyKaOsEIEkDmVYYaGq2ZWswdefRkK5U4n0RMk0UHkGlI6eYWdt4jU0EbcCl2lJm8HdDuJxgA7Ko/s320/47646229912_a2d365489a_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div></div>
<span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span>But then, success! An Atlantic sharpnose shark was writhing on a hook. The team removed the shark from the hook and measured, weighed, determined the species and sex and attached a tiny plastic tag to the dorsal fin. The shark was quickly returned to the water and with a quick flip of its fins, disappeared into the deep. <br /> <br /> Each tag has a unique number and a Southern Miss phone number. Anglers that catch a tagged fish are asked to call the phone number on the tag and report the tag number, length and sex. Reports of tagged sharks subsequently caught by anglers allow biologists to determine life spans, ranges, movement patterns and other critical information. <div><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bvLlxUlDkR2YvL3NFDIEsIyMPFQ0R5o2ZS6H-ct1fhhppCTBMe3XoSBWOz0apKrJHyokFDrqUKvQeU0QztryHc5OhzxaCU_r6b_7TvrRpkz5zq3Vm6ToulGPPM8SqUgwGJwaKCbEzMY/s320/46783244755_a98378a786_o.jpg" width="320" />The tags are the key to the study,” said Jeremy Higgs, Research Associate at the Center for Fisheries Research and Development within the GCRL. “We are dependent on fishermen to report tags to us. The data reported back to us allows us to determine how the population is doing.” </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br /></div>We hooked three more sharks at Petit Bois and then moved on to Horn Island, a 30 minute run, and set the longline again. This location, one of four random stations that are checked on each trip, looked more promising with clearer water and 35 foot depth. Another hour soak and we winched in the longline. We were not disappointed. One of the first hooks held another Atlantic sharpnose but then we hauled in a blacktip shark, a sleek four-foot beauty. Blacktips are an impressive species, with the classic predatory shark shape and attractive black markings on their fins—hence their name. The study targets ten shark species that inhabit near-shore waters. These are not the huge sharks that swim in the deep waters of the Gulf—the largest one we hooked was about four feet--although Higgs says they occasionally capture big bull sharks.</div><div><br /></div><div>Higgs says they may capture, tag and release as many as 1,000 sharks per season and the tag return rate is only around two. He has been tagging sharks since 2010 and his knowledge of and appreciation for sharks is apparent. He can immediately identify the shark.<br /><br /><br /><br />We captured another seven sharks on this second soak and followed up with two more sets off of Cat Island where we hooked eight more. Total score for the day: 19 sharks, including 13 Atlantic sharpnose, three finetooth, two blacktips and one spinner. <br /><br />Baiting hooks, setting and hauling lines, and processing and wrangling irate sharks in the hot sun on a rolling deck makes for a long, arduous day and when we docked in Biloxi just before sunset the team had had a good workout. It takes a lot of dedication and hard work to assist these beleaguered and often misunderstood fish and it’s good to know that Mississippi is helping to enhance their survival.<br /><div style="background-color: white; background: white; line-height: normal;"><span face=""calibri" , "sans-serif"" lang="EN" style="color: #333333; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bvLlxUlDkR2YvL3NFDIEsIyMPFQ0R5o2ZS6H-ct1fhhppCTBMe3XoSBWOz0apKrJHyokFDrqUKvQeU0QztryHc5OhzxaCU_r6b_7TvrRpkz5zq3Vm6ToulGPPM8SqUgwGJwaKCbEzMY/s1600/46783244755_a98378a786_o.jpg" style="background-color: white; clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; text-align: left; text-decoration: none;">.</span></span></a></div><div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br /></div><div style="background: white; line-height: normal;"><br /><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JYa-bbqeu8qfYp9rqAtPq8TSxkKEH3vJwlAJO8XmaDGm4CXN6D0Xo_1gjFLE4vjlyv2lcBm_m2dUX52Y064LfAOQD0kXOEgYPcGS9xVg-bAdqDzRmt1t-T9zLSxVdfUM2DVQKHmATr0/s1600/32756165987_ef95a4d34f_o.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4JYa-bbqeu8qfYp9rqAtPq8TSxkKEH3vJwlAJO8XmaDGm4CXN6D0Xo_1gjFLE4vjlyv2lcBm_m2dUX52Y064LfAOQD0kXOEgYPcGS9xVg-bAdqDzRmt1t-T9zLSxVdfUM2DVQKHmATr0/s320/32756165987_ef95a4d34f_o.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span></div><br />
<span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"></span></div><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03x24BMEVXncJy3Z7eErnjI3jZC_0oDP0TU8L1WxMyFjA__LOFGwioQZwjtkk0pnctuJZzoh7qqLAU_bZt6dF4OB3yYvJkU-GqcB5HE8qwjE7kcZF2j0kxHMl9QfxyFKf-EthagKbwpY/s320/33821969378_c54112b2ce_o.jpg" /><div style="background: white; line-height: normal;"><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9bvLlxUlDkR2YvL3NFDIEsIyMPFQ0R5o2ZS6H-ct1fhhppCTBMe3XoSBWOz0apKrJHyokFDrqUKvQeU0QztryHc5OhzxaCU_r6b_7TvrRpkz5zq3Vm6ToulGPPM8SqUgwGJwaKCbEzMY/s1600/46783244755_a98378a786_o.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><br /><br /></span></a></div><div style="background: white; line-height: normal;"><br /></div></div>
</div></div>It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-10179200211301649562020-04-18T11:25:00.001-05:002020-04-18T11:25:07.202-05:00Paoli Peaks Ski Resort Indiana<strong><em>A version of this article appeared in SKI Magazine.</em></strong><br />
<strong><em></em></strong><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
Indiana? Isn’t that flatlander’s paradise, full of
flat-as-a-pool-table cornfields? Well yeah, much of Indiana is flat but the
state’s southern reaches are a pleasing jumble of hills and valleys. Nestled
deep in these hills is Paoli Peaks, a friendly bare-bones resort that attracts
a near-cultish following. Other than the namesake town of Paoli, a tiny
settlement of about 3500 people, Paoli Peaks isn’t really close to any cities.
But that doesn’t deter the faithful. On the weekends, snow-starved skiers from
as far away as Alabama and Florida join the usual crew of skiers and boarders
from Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky. While many residents of the lower Midwest and
Southeastern states load up for a multi-hour drive to the mountains of West
Virginia, savvy snowhounds skip the road trip and hit Paoli. Instead of
spending numbing hours eating up the Interstate, they’re carving tracks through
Paoli’s snow. </div>
<br />
<div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
About that snow. Southern Indiana could hardly be
considered to be in the heart of ski country, what with the Kentucky border a
mere fifty miles away and the nearest thing resembling a real mountain hours to
the east. The snowbelt ends two hours north in the central part of the state so
Paoli is pushing the envelope as far as skiing goes. A lot of your time will be
spent on manmade snow and as long as it’s cold enough, the machines are
blowing. Your best friend is a telephone to check snow conditions before
loading up the truck for the trek to the slopes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">And
trucks are what you’ll see in the parking lot; this is, after all, farm
country. In the lower Midwest, you don’t have a lot of resort options so the
lot is usually full. Area skiers try to pack a full winter of skiing into the
relatively brief December-to-March season. Paoli maximizes the season by
staying open 19 hours a day on weekends--in addition to the normal daytime
sessions, the resort runs midnight to 6AM “Midnight Madness” weekend sessions.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">This
borderline geographical location was what had area residents shaking their
heads when a local physician, Dr. Richard Graber, began construction of the
resort. The prevailing opinion was that this was a fool’s fantasy. That was in
1978 when the resort opened with 15 acres of trails and one lift. Twenty-two
years later, Dr. Graber’s daring dream has grown into fifteen slopes, five
chairlifts, a modern lodge, and slopeside condominiums. Dr. Graber died a
couple of years ago, but not before he saw his vision succeed, drawing steady
and devoted crowds every season..</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">OK,
so it’s not Vail, but it is an appealing little gem with an amiable,
unpretentious feel. Talk to skiers around the huge fireplace in the airy 45,000
square-foot top-of-the-peak day lodge and you’ll hear the words cozy and
friendly used to describe the resort. The resort’s clientele is just as
affable. The slopes and lodge are sprinkled with endorphin-pumped novices,
wide-eyed midwestern innocence showing in the broad grins plastered across
their faces. Reminds you of the first time you hit the slopes, none of that
worldly been-there-done-that swagger that pervades many ski resorts. The crowd
is an easy mix of unsteady beginners clad in Levi’s and camouflage hunting
outfits as well as smooth experts sharpening their skills for Western trips.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Typical
of the latter is Nancy Clark Pickrell from nearby Louisville, carving her way
down the PowerLine Racing dual-slalom course, posting a respectable time and
beating her husband, Tim. Nancy is keeping in tune with the Louisville Ski
Club, participating in the Blue Grass Challenge races. Like many who ski here,
Nancy has been coming to Paoli practically since its opening over two decades
ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">The
slopes are full of these homegrown skiers who have matured with the
resort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Strike up a chairlift conversation
and the odds are good your seatmates learned to ski here. Maybe one reason <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">USA Today</b> recently named the resort as
one of the ten best places to learn to ski.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Paoli’s
runs fit perfectly with the crowd, offering enough variety (25% beginner, 55 %
intermediate, 20% expert/advanced) to keep a visit from becoming too
repetitious, no matter what your skill level.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ski out of the lodge and you can drop off to the right to the
intermediate runs of Hoosier Bend or Indiana Jones, or cruise left to Walnut
Alley, Beech Grove, Mind Bender or Haywagon.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Before
you get the idea that this is some cuddly clump of hills that caters strictly
to novices, check out the boarders tearing over the jumps and carving through
the quarter pipe over at Jurassic Snow Park. Then cruise over to Graber’s
Express and watch the experts exploding down the bumps. These two runs are
where the hardcore gather and, as the sun settles behind the hills, the tempo
seems to pick up. Boarders catch bigger air off the rollers at the Park and skiers
bomb down the tree line a little faster. Margrit Wurmli-Kagi, Marketing
Director and part owner sums it up;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“Paoli is mellow during the day, more charged—yet peaceful--at night.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Ah,
night skiing—the real attraction of Paoli. The slopes rock after midnight with
serious skiers tearing hell bent through the blowing snow and glaring white
lights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Margrit says, “The sun always
shines at midnight at Paoli.” I don’t know about the sun coming out, but a
different breed of skier definitely takes over. I mean, you have to wonder
about anyone who pulls on boots and skis when everybody else is pulling covers
up in bed. The pulse definitely quickens after midnight. The crowd thins out
and the bunch that is left is intent on getting in max slope time. The runs are
a collage of shadows and surreal light, a blur of skiers hurtling through
sparkling crystalline clouds of driving snow. The roar of the snow guns and
whooping and yelling nightriders breaks the silence of the crisp night air. Dr.
Graber’s dream definitely lives on in Indiana.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Skiable Terrain:</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Sixty-five acres, fifteen
runs, a 300-foot vertical drop and a 2400-foot-long expert slope may sound
small but Paoli’s layout makes the skiing feel bigger.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Lifts:</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> One double, three triples
and a quad chair.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Season and Snowfall: </span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">December through March.
Southern Indiana’s borderline temperatures and an annual snowfall of about 6
inches mean snowmaking is critical. Paoli’s facilities are up to the task. Over
100 snow guns can layer the entire area with 12 inches of snow in 12 hours. The
week between Christmas and New Year’s can be crowded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Getting There:</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> One hour from Louisville
and Indianapolis, four hours from St. Louis, and four hours from Nashville,
just north of Interstate 64 <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">Lodging and Eats:</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Best bet for lodging,
dining, and after-ski activities is the huge 470-room French Lick Springs
Resort and Spa (800-457-4042), eleven miles down the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The elegantly restored century-old resort was
once a thriving outpost for the rich and famous (Clark Gable and Bing Crosby
were visitors). You can’t go wrong with the steaks and seafood at Jack’s
Steakhouse in the hotel. The in-house Le Bistro and Kentucky Derby bars are
hangouts for skiers on weekends.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-3030718721267638602020-04-18T11:12:00.000-05:002020-04-18T15:04:03.508-05:00Whitewater in the Southeast USA<b><i>A version of this article appeared in the Huntsville Times.</i></b><br />
<div class="WordSection1">
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection2">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Let<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s
try a little geographic word association.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>ll give you a
subject and you tell me the first location that comes to mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I say whitewater
rafting, odds are you
will think immediately of the Snake, Green, Colorado, or Salmon rivers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Why?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because serious whitewater rafting in this country
has become almost synonymous with the famous wild rivers of the West and any
conversation about rafting inevitably segues into tales invoking the almost
mystical names of a number of famous American rafting rivers, all of which are
located well west of America<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s
heartland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The popular image of rafting
invokes scenes of brightly colored rubber rafts being<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>tossed about on the raging, mocha roil of an
isolated wild river in the rugged canyon lands of Colorado, Utah, Idaho, or
Arizona.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The western states are the
mecca of whitewater rafting in this country, and indeed the level of challenge
and danger offered by the many whitewater hot spots out West is hard to match.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
But for those of us who live east
of the Mississippi, there are adrenalin pumping rivers in the mountains of the
Southeast that produce heart thumping rides cheaper and much closer to
home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While these rivers may lack the
continuous Ohmigod‑I'm‑going‑to‑die heart stopping excitement of the wilder
western rivers, there are some advantages to the whitewater rivers of the
Southeast that the western rivers cannot match: there are usually no waiting
lists to raft them, they are all within easy driving distance of most of the
eastern population centers, and they are much cheaper to run than their western
counterparts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection3">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
In fact, there are five exciting
whitewater rivers in the Southeast that are all closer together than the drive
between any three of those western rivers mentioned earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is possible to raft all five of these
rivers in one week, taking time off in between to relax and soak up the local
scenery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Try that out West.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So if you think you have to spend a week of
hard earned vacation time and a month<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s
salary to run one western river, quintuple your whitewater exposure with these
five southeastern rivers, which you can easily raft in a week, with time left
for plenty of R&R.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Let's start your week‑long
marathon:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sunday, Tennessee,
Ocoee River</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Forty five minutes
northeast of Chattanooga and just east of Cleveland, Tennessee near Interstate
75 sits the opening act.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Ocoee is a
dam‑controlled river, runnable Thursday through Monday in the summers and on
weekends during the spring and fall, and the first two weeks of October.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Site of the 1996 Olympic whitewater venue,
the Ocoee is a good warm-up river for your week of whitewater. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection4">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
This is a short run‑‑only five
miles, but the drops come quickly with little time to recover in between, so be
ready for almost continuous whitewater beginning with Put In rapid, just below
the low dam at the launch point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is
a long Class III rapid, a good initial baptism for your week of whitewater
fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Broken Nose, the next rapid, comes
up almost immediately, followed by Double Suck which features two large keeper
hydraulics and Double Trouble with back-to-back standing waves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Between these two rapids is Hell<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s Half Mile, a stretch of
continuous Class II and III whitewater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next comes Flipper requiring some quick maneuvering: listen to your
guide for directions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best is yet to
come: Table Saw and Diamond Splitter are both Class III to IV drops separated
by less than a half mile of churning water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The final drops, Hell Hole and Powerhouse Ledge, are also the best.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you're not completely soaked before Hell
Hole, the standing wave is guaranteed to soak you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jump out below the power plant that sits on
the left bank just after the Ledge and take a swim in the calm pool before you
haul your raft out a quarter mile downstream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>ll see lots
of inexperienced rafters on the Ocoee; don<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>t
let that bother you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the local
caulkers may smirk at the unwashed masses bobbing by in rafts, you have the
comfort of knowing that this first day of your week long odyssey is a warm up
for a trip that will offer better waves than they are playing.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The Ocoee initiation takes less
than half a day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Grab a hot shower and
head your car east on Highway 64 to Bryson City, North Carolina and take a look
at the Nantahala River, a canoeing and kayaking hot spot for southeastern
kayakers and canoeists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Check in at the
Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), perched between Highway 19 and the Nantahala
River, and grab a room and a hot meal at the Nantahala Village, part of the NOC
complex.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Monday, North Carolina,
Nantahala River.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>OK, so the title of
this article is "Five
Southeast Rafting Classics."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>m
throwing in the Nantahala as a bonus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sue me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A little too tame for
rafting, the Nantahala will give you a chance to hone your paddling skills so
after watching the local kayak experts negotiate Class III Nantahala Falls,
rent a kayak and give the Class II water of the Nantahala a try.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Play in the water for as long as you want,
after all you<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>re on
vacation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>ll have most of the day here to practice your
rolls and surf the waves; your next stop is only a few miles down Highway 441
at Clayton, GA.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Four miles north of
Clayton, camp at one of the twelve walk‑in sites at Black Rock Mountain State
Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sit around the campfire telling scary tales involving murderous
moonshiners to get in the proper mood for:<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection5">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tuesday, Georgia,
Chattooga River.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Everybody knows the
Chattooga's claim to fame: the river where Ned Beatty squealed like a pig in <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Deliverance</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A federally designated Wild and Scenic River,
it is also renowned for its primitive beauty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Originating in the mountains of North Carolina, the Chattooga actually
flows between South Carolina and Georgia and offers two options: Section Three
with the Class IV Bull Sluice rapids and some calm water stretches, and the
more challenging seven miles of Section Four.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Don<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>t waste
your time on Section Three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Chattooga demands a lot from you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Perhaps the most technically challenging of the five rivers you<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>ll raft this week, the
Chattooga requires constant attention to avoid flipping in its twisting
chutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Section Four starts off with
the most dangerous rapid, Woodall Shoals, a ledge which forms a massive keeper
that can grab and hold boats (and people).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Below Woodall Shoals, the river narrows into a series of steep drops and
impressive rapids, leading into Seven Foot Falls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seven Foot is best described as vertical and
if you are not the lead raft, you will understand why as the raft in front of
you drops out of sight over the edge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As
a climax, Five Falls blasts you with one Class III and four Class V rapids in a
quarter mile section before flushing you out on the other side, wet, tired and
exhilarated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A maze of huge rocks, the
Chattooga will pinball your raft from one rapid to the next.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Your tent awaits you back at Black Mountain
so warm yourself by the campfire and get a good night's sleep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tomorrow: road trip.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wednesday, en route
to West Virginia.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You had a day to
rest in the Smokies and a good night's sleep, so let<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s hit it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Pull on those dry baggies, a T‑shirt, and some sandals, unwrap a Moon
Pie and down an RC Cola (you're in the South remember) and head east on Highway
76 and Interstate 85 to Charlotte.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At
Charlotte follow Interstate 77 north all the way to Beckley, West
Virginia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This six-hour drive takes you
through some of the prettiest scenery east of the Rockies, starting with the
mountains and foothills of the Piedmont region of the Carolinas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After you cross the North Carolina‑Virginia
border you will drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains and notice the land
becoming more mountainous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you hit
West Virginia, you will find yourself in the midst of the Appalachians.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take Highway 19 out of Beckley through the
mountains to Hawk's Nest State Park where you've made reservations at least
three months in advance at the Hawk's Nest Lodge (800‑225‑5982).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Feed your face in the lodge's dining room and
take a short evening hike on the park's scenic trails to get the blood flowing
back to your butt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tumble into bed with
a full belly and dreams of:<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection6">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Thursday, West
Virginia, New River</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The New River
offers both exciting whitewater and spectacular scenery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This river pounds through the New River
Gorge, a 1000-foot deep canyon of intensely beautiful wilderness and the oldest
river in North America.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You'll get a
glimpse of the New River Bridge,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the
longest arch bridge in the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you
time your trip for October<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>s
Bridge Day, you can watch the crazies jump (with parachutes of course) from the
900-foot high bridge span.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Do yourself a
favor; limit your thrills to the water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And get ready for some wild stuff: the 15‑mile section of the Lower New
running from Thurmond to Fayette Station offers some of the most exciting
whitewater in the East.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Lower New
has five Class V runs: the Keeney's, Double Z, Greyhound Bus Stopper, Miller's
Folly, and Fayette Station.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This river
is a step above the two you<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>ve
rafted so far and you'll know it about the time you hit the Keeney's, a
turbulent drop that is often obscured by veils of mist rising from the boiling
water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Churning through a narrow slot
of huge boulders, this is the longest river trip so far, with the run taking
about 5‑6 hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And those are not
relaxing hours; almost constant paddling is required to run the New.<br />
<br />
<o:p></o:p><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The next river is just down the
road so head back to the Hawk's Nest where you can relive the day's adventures
in front of the lodge's blazing stone fireplace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tomorrow is the headliner: the Upper Gauley. <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection7">
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection8">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Friday, West
Virginia, Upper Gauley River.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
is the one you've been waiting for, the most challenging river of the
week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This thirteen-mile section of the
Gauley is best run for about three weeks in September and October when the
Corps of Engineers releases water from behind Summersville Lake upstream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like the New, the Gauley is a visual delight
beginning with an unforgettably scenic backdrop as you launch your raft.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Three house‑sized outlet pipes shoot
horizontal flumes of water from the base of Summersville Dam, enveloping the
entire area in a continuous mist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A deep
thunderous rumble accompanies the foaming water raging below the dam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the moment you launch your raft, you are
caught in this maelstrom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>High
sandstone cliffs covered with thick forests line the river nearly the whole
length, lending a feeling of wilderness isolation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the main attraction is the water, not the
scenery: six violent Class V rapids and a generous helping of Class III and IV
water make this the most awesome run yet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The first two Class V's, Bud's Boner and Insignificant, prep you for the
even more punishing water of Pillow Rock and Lost Paddle Rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pillow plunges between truck‑sized boulders
and just when you think you're through with the rapids, Volkswagen Rock waits
to pound you one last time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lost Paddle
is 1500 feet of Class V waves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two more
big runs, Shipwreck and Iron Ring (Class V), keep the adrenalin rushing until
you reach Sweet's Falls, the highlight of the trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sweet's drops 14 feet into a churning vortex
that usually manages to overturn rafts or eject passengers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you make it through Sweet<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>s, just below you will be
greeted by the Crack of Doom which will toothpaste-squeeze you through a narrow
defile between two towering rocks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Alternately, a huge boulder called Postage Stamp slams those
unfortunates who paddle just a little bit too far left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you dump at Sweet<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>s,
you will have an extra measure of humiliation added to your terror: this is a
popular lunch stop and the crowd is always spoiling for a spectacular
mishap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first sound that will reach
your ears should you lose it at Sweet<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">=</span>s
will be the hooting guffaws of the lunch bunch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>No sympathy for losers here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
last Class V, Woods Ferry, provides an exciting climax to the Upper Gauley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is an exhausting four to five-hour
run.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ride your shuttle bus back and, if
your raft company is one of many on the Upper Gauley who video your run, watch
yourself getting pummeled on TV.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
head an hour north on Highway 19 and Interstate 79 and stop at Stonewall
Jackson Lake State Park where you'll camp for the night and get ready for the
climax of your trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Saturday, Maryland,
Upper Youghiogheny River.</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Get up
early and continue north on Interstate 79 to Highway 48 and follow it east to
Friendsville, MD.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Upper Yough is a
whitewater bonanza, an exciting river nestled in the hills of extreme western
Maryland and offering breathtaking drops through boulder‑strewn rapids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Upper Yough offers Class IV water with a
few rough Class V's thrown in for good measure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Just to give you an idea of the violent nature of the Yough's big water,
the river drops an average of 116 feet per mile, and these feet show up as
precipitous drops in more than 20 Class IV and V rapids like Meat Cleaver,
National Falls, Charlie's Choice, and Tommy's Hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Yough offers eleven miles of powerful and
careening rapids, approaching the excitement of your previous day's experience
on the Gauley.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Alright, you've run five rivers in
six days, and driven through seven states.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You've seen beautiful scenery ranging from the pine forests of Georgia
to the steep hardwood‑forested mountains of Maryland, experienced world class
whitewater, had a day for a leisurely kayak run or a hike through the Smokies,
and still have a day left to get home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You missed that expensive and cramped airplane flight, or worse yet, a
three-day drive across Kansas, and you didn't spend your next six months of car
payments so you'll have some bucks next year to hit some of the other great
rivers of the East you missed this year: the Nolichucky, Russell Fork, Cheat,
or Tygart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides all that, they don't
even know what Moon Pies are out West.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p> </o:p><b style="text-align: center;"><o:p> </o:p></b></div>
</div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="WordSection9">
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">CONTACTS</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
In the Southeast, the best river
running is in the Spring and Fall, and the Gauley offers the best whitewater in
September and October, so plan your trip accordingly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All five rivers are serviced by rafting
companies offering guided and completely outfitted runs, so all you need to
show up with are the clothes on your back and no fear of getting wet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each raft comes fully equipped with an
experienced guide, a feature you will come to appreciate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One thing that quickly becomes apparent is
that while the water may not be as big on eastern rivers, the technical
challenge is often greater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eastern
rivers tend to be rockier and more constricted and convoluted than their
western counterparts, requiring more maneuvering and quicker paddling
moves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Consequently, your level of
involvement is greater and you will find yourself constantly responding to the
shouted directions of your guide over the din of the rapids.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
A number of rafting companies offer
services on these rivers and it would be impossible to list them all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Gauley and Ocoee, for instance, are
serviced by dozens of companies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Partial
listings of companies and prices follow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Local Chambers of Commerce can provide names of additional companies
serving the rivers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
On the Ocoee, contact USA Raft,
P.O. Box 277, Rowlesburg, WV<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>26425, 800‑USA‑RAFT,
or Sunburst Adventures, Inc., P.O. Box 329‑B, Benton, TN 37307, 800‑247‑8388.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>USA Raft also runs the New and the Gauley.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Mountain River Tours, Sunday Road,
P.O. Box 88, Hico, WV 25854, 800‑822‑1386, and Appalachian Wildwaters, Inc.,
P.O. Box 100, Rowlesburg, WV 26425, 800‑624‑8060, run both the New and the
Gauley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Appalachian Wildwaters also runs
the upper Yough, as does Precision Rafting, P.O. Box 185, Friendsville, MD
21531, 800‑4‑PRE‑RAF. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection10">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Chattooga trips are provided by the
Nantahala Outdoor Center, 13077 Highway 19 West, Bryson City, NC 28713, 800‑232‑7238.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
</div>
<div class="WordSection11">
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Best of the Rest</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
If nothing else, the Southeast
offers the whitewater enthusiast incredible variety.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many more rivers in the area offer
opportunities for rafting and world class kayaking and canoeing. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some additional wildwater runs include:<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cheat River</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Located in northern West Virginia, near the
Pennsylvania border, the Cheat is serviced by a limited number of
outfitters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Cheat is dam free and is
heavily dependent on rainfall to generate enough flow for an exciting run.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Conditions are usually favorable for only a
couple of weeks in the Spring, so be prepared for any conditions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Offering eleven miles of Class IV-V rapids
through the gorgeous Cheat Canyon, the seven hour run through rapids such Big Nasty and Even Nastier is a nice season-opener
for eastern river rats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Tygart River</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next door neighbor to the Cheat, the Tygart
is a short but exhilarating six mile ride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Known for extreme fluctuations in water level due to unpredictable rains
and the extremely constricted surrounding valley, the Tygart is, like the
Cheat, a river that requires flexibility concerning conditions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although smaller than the Cheat, the Tygart
has the same gradient, offering a similar thrill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Water flow in the Tygart is generally high
enough to run only in March and April.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Russell Fork</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Located in southeastern Kentucky, the Russell
Fork is dangerous and unpredictable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There have been a number of fatalities on the Russell in recent years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For that reason, few companies run the
Russell anymore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those that do charge a
premium price.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be forewarned that this
river is not for the novice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A violent
and scary run, think twice about attempting this river, and then only with an
experienced outfitter, like Mountain Streams,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>P.O. Box 106, Ohiopyle, PA 15470-0106, 1-800-723-8669.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mountain Streams also services the Cheat and
the Tygart.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></div>
</div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: always;" />
</span></b>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Nolichucky River</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Near Erwin, TN, the Nolichucky can be a
surprisingly lively run.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although much
of the time it is Class III or less, a sudden mountain downpour can make the Chucky lots of fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chock full of Saint Bernard-size boulders,
low water makes for a bumpy and bruising ride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Best bet is an early spring or mid fall trip, to catch the seasonal
rains and higher water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you catch it
right, you<span style="font-family: "wp typographicsymbols";">'</span>ll enjoy an
almost continuous series of Class III and IV foam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The outfitter of choice here is USA Raft, who
has an outpost right on the banks of the river near Erwin.<o:p></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-35231926387634174742020-04-18T10:42:00.002-05:002020-04-18T15:03:46.622-05:00Texas Birding<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<strong><em>THIS POST WAS WRITTEN BY SARA WITTENBERG RESS BASED ON A JOINT TRIP</em></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
The anticipation of what I was about to view nearly trumped
the sighting itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our guide informed
Dad and I that the property potentially had the only Masked Ducks in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">U.S.</st1:country-region></st1:place>
at the current time- what luck for us!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
turned the focus knob, bringing the small stiff-tailed duck, still in winter
plumage, into view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There it was!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bird was transported before me with the
aid of the spotting scope, allowing me to share in a moment of its
existence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had booked a half-day
private birding trip on the King Ranch in <st1:city w:st="on">Kingsville</st1:city>,
<st1:state w:st="on">Texas</st1:state>, and our exceptional guide assisted us
in racking up 81 species in four hours, including many south <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Texas</st1:place></st1:state> specialties.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a superb end to a productive birding
adventure along the central coast of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Texas</st1:place></st1:state>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With a map of the Great Texas Coastal Birding
Trail in hand, we set out on a balmy mid-March day with the intent of covering
much of the Corpus Christi, Mustang Island and Aransas loop stops, throwing in
Aransas National Wildlife Refuge and King Ranch as must-dos before our week
expired and our jobs in Alabama and Arkansas called us back home.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aMce6JssiANUNm-r8TaNI1Vevb62dUQU_tmwEDN438xyHoaGKhPdqpe4mRIK5Dlii5s7ODbn1uzwlxuau7m6HhmRDuzjvhw4DOn4_tl_u6VVU9cxwMH937UIos7tcuRH27xrHhr0LU8/s1600/AW1A9249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aMce6JssiANUNm-r8TaNI1Vevb62dUQU_tmwEDN438xyHoaGKhPdqpe4mRIK5Dlii5s7ODbn1uzwlxuau7m6HhmRDuzjvhw4DOn4_tl_u6VVU9cxwMH937UIos7tcuRH27xrHhr0LU8/s320/AW1A9249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Much of our
journey took us along the beaches of the <st1:place w:st="on">Gulf of Mexico</st1:place>,
so aside from great birds the views were quite enjoyable as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were some highlights of our week- two
virtual bird paradises warrant mention, as they both took us by surprise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just on the outskirts of Corpus Christi is
Indian Point Park, a “salt flat” harboring great diversity- peeps of all shapes
and sizes, Reddish Egrets dancing to apparently no one, Black-Necked Stilts
beginning to pair up for spring nesting, and American Avocets so unconcerned
with our presence that we could photograph them feet from our vehicle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Port</st1:placetype> <st1:placename w:st="on">Aransas</st1:placename>
<st1:placename w:st="on">Birding</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Center</st1:placetype></st1:place>
is a hidden gem- a wetland area behind a sewage treatment plant that’s a
figurative “sea of birds”, creating a mosaic of colors dominated by pink
splashes of Roseate Spoonbills by the hundreds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>All three species of teal intermingled with Northern Shovelers and
Mottled Ducks to round out the waterfowl present.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Avocets and Stilts abounded, nearly every
species of herons and egrets found in <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Texas</st1:place></st1:state>
were foraging in the wetland, and shorebirds further challenged our
identification skills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We spent one
night camping on Padre Island National Seashore at the south end of Mustang
Island, and were fortunate to stumble upon a bird walk led by two resident park
volunteers (though the walk was a misnomer as they shuttled us all over the
park for 3.5 hours in a 15-passenger van).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They tried to surprise us with a nest-cam set up on a clutch of nestling
Barn Owls, but in the two days since they’d checked it the chicks had fledged-
no luck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did get a great look,
however, of the resident Peregrine Falcon (and several other raptor
species).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Goose Island State Park at the
north end of Mustang Island boasts the World Record Life Oak (though its exact
age is unclear as discrepancies in sources listed is as either over 1000 or
over 2000 years old). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nonetheless, that
was one impressive tree!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio-XpSY6_QFdRn68QwoJJuHGnqRiZne75CN6f2mbYfz9p3hnTyTc3Cyz1R1jl9SXPb2qiDVLQeA-Vpr2d8l8Z3otbG7A1QUaf-O3VqQwPZKllIrwqHxcl7c9lJDKYmte18mlSo_-b51o4/s1600/AW1A9527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio-XpSY6_QFdRn68QwoJJuHGnqRiZne75CN6f2mbYfz9p3hnTyTc3Cyz1R1jl9SXPb2qiDVLQeA-Vpr2d8l8Z3otbG7A1QUaf-O3VqQwPZKllIrwqHxcl7c9lJDKYmte18mlSo_-b51o4/s320/AW1A9527.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAQ274vbRhDTog0TT1xNUgZabc1A_HWI12tBaQMy24wDtb9LfNtEM09Ng0h_f5qfVkkybXnTcADtX4oW4xZwUTOdau-4TR8wOeusXB82Y_ZbB6te9jaIxCwNe3MC5W5zLsUkzPpdrmys/s1600/AW1A9542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="1600" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGAQ274vbRhDTog0TT1xNUgZabc1A_HWI12tBaQMy24wDtb9LfNtEM09Ng0h_f5qfVkkybXnTcADtX4oW4xZwUTOdau-4TR8wOeusXB82Y_ZbB6te9jaIxCwNe3MC5W5zLsUkzPpdrmys/s320/AW1A9542.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<o:p></o:p><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We devoted
one day to the famed Aransas NWR, viewing it first from afar (from a boat), and
then by driving through the refuge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
morning trip aboard The Skimmer yielded nine Whopping Cranes, a species whose
name preceeds them and which neither of us had ever seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We got amazing looks at them, spending approximately
one hour watching a pair forage very near to our boat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ultimately we ended up with 132 species of
birds and a smattering of mammals and reptiles, with gators being the prominent
species.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWUPovnpp3nlbEP0if9t8xBiEviyHlYAc1TDHn-1xrJ7PPMJu_CNw8PTCnsnFfJWfOC7jzF8A7HAdxvygh8RLoN9rvsrLdVBaZfN73uBLgaaqdmjI-cJ15BKo4t5vdpsi3HMUreVxR2c/s1600/AW1A9645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1111" data-original-width="1600" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWUPovnpp3nlbEP0if9t8xBiEviyHlYAc1TDHn-1xrJ7PPMJu_CNw8PTCnsnFfJWfOC7jzF8A7HAdxvygh8RLoN9rvsrLdVBaZfN73uBLgaaqdmjI-cJ15BKo4t5vdpsi3HMUreVxR2c/s320/AW1A9645.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>No birder,
experienced or novice, could be left wanting after a trip to the <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Texas</st1:place></st1:state> coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The birding trail has been broken up into
three segments- upper, central, and lower- and once could spend days on any
given area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The farther south you go,
the more Central American species you are likely to encounter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Depending on what your goal may be (and how
much time you have to spare!), one can tailor their trip to suit their
preferences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be warned though- don’t try
to do too much in too little time!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Make
sure to incorporate some coastal and inland birding no matter what area you
visit to ensure a diverse array of species, and be prepared to be amazed!<o:p></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-17916661351246256882020-04-18T10:39:00.002-05:002020-04-18T10:39:25.060-05:00Reelfoot Lake Tennessee<br />
<div class="WordSection1">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
Hard against the western edge of
Tennessee along the flat floodplain of the Mississippi River, lies a pocket of
water which in appearance has more in common with the sloughs and backwaters of
the deep south than the western reaches of the Cumberland region.<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xRkYHoqUdWtD9kEpdkJOfHKT-cf1OKRRLNq9nA1fT6FQsO7h52lYzxyT12Uk4eDk284NAcqYr-YHDxJ1T4XSdNhiyb7wh2W1LVq65ncau7cWg3A2mUvDJ9nwV7CeaA2b-FyO0518SwU/s1600/AW1A2007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="347" data-original-width="500" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5xRkYHoqUdWtD9kEpdkJOfHKT-cf1OKRRLNq9nA1fT6FQsO7h52lYzxyT12Uk4eDk284NAcqYr-YHDxJ1T4XSdNhiyb7wh2W1LVq65ncau7cWg3A2mUvDJ9nwV7CeaA2b-FyO0518SwU/s400/AW1A2007.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
This out‑of‑place body of water is
not only an anomaly in its location but also in the way it was formed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the winter of 1811‑1812, a massive
earthquake hit the western Tennessee region, along the New Madrid
faultline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to historical
reports, witnesses saw the water flow out of the Mississippi backward in a
great wall for three days and three nights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A large area of land sank and the surrounding land was thrust upward,
the backwards‑rushing waters of the Mississippi filling in to form a separate
body of water, a broad shallow lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Indians who inhabited the region called this lake Reelfoot, after the club‑footed
son of the local Indian chief.<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiv2XipwIG5trJLarh4HmKyA5I-gB7GjNvLLDkYNPZRzWIlUe5PO6J-L-BhKTCXNjF9AL34yMhuyNmqcIWIWh5PnrfukQ_oFrlPcxN29XMMA-xQbaOnExIpIyhHjpQ4sYXcJl2wtBFZA8/s1600/AW1A8245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="381" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiv2XipwIG5trJLarh4HmKyA5I-gB7GjNvLLDkYNPZRzWIlUe5PO6J-L-BhKTCXNjF9AL34yMhuyNmqcIWIWh5PnrfukQ_oFrlPcxN29XMMA-xQbaOnExIpIyhHjpQ4sYXcJl2wtBFZA8/s320/AW1A8245.jpg" width="243" /></a></div>
<br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The shallow waters of Reelfoot Lake
were conducive to plants and animals more commonly found in the bayous and
sloughs of the south and the lake gradually evolved into a botanical island of
cypress and lily pads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Surrounded by
thousands of acres of rich bottomland forests and situated along the
Mississippi flyway, Reelfoot became a major stopover for ducks and other
waterfowl on their annual migrations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Frontiersman Davy Crockett called Reelfoot his favorite hunting grounds.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The attractions of Reelfoot to
wildlife continue to this day and the Reelfoot National Wildlife Refuge
provides habitat for deer, beaver, coyote, great blue herons, and osprey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake is a temporary home to thousands of
Canada Geese, mallards, widgeons, gadwalls, and other waterfowl every fall as
they head south for the winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a
typical season up to half a million ducks and 150,000 geese are concentrated at
Reelfoot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A respectable population of
bald eagles is also present on the lake and can be easily spotted from the
water and banks.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection2">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The lake looks like a giant letter
"W" from the air, four large basins set in a gentle curve among the
surrounding farmland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The largest two
basins form the majority of the lake, with two smaller bodies of water, Buzzard
Slough and Upper Blue Basin, finishing the "W" with a flourish on the
end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Buzzard Slough and Upper Blue Basin
are reached by short ditches connecting the waterways, not much more than a
boat’s-width wide and crowded on both sides by cattails and lily pads.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tjy2Pv0AepI-WZAqtirdmoRRCuBxACTdnivavXH5_sKnzhWDz0gnyXcy4T33iqa-JGmNNzJw-8mi7ICLhvC30vz4qDcEuutmRCwvnsDamLEs4z5r6geWnDD1_LWRP-UsI_tAf5hNDLo/s1600/AW1A1669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="451" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tjy2Pv0AepI-WZAqtirdmoRRCuBxACTdnivavXH5_sKnzhWDz0gnyXcy4T33iqa-JGmNNzJw-8mi7ICLhvC30vz4qDcEuutmRCwvnsDamLEs4z5r6geWnDD1_LWRP-UsI_tAf5hNDLo/s320/AW1A1669.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
For nature lovers, Reelfoot is a
veritable paradise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake is fourteen
miles long and covers more than 15,000 acres, a patchwork of wide expanses of
open water with large groves of cypress growing out of the lake surface.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These thick cypress groves give Reelfoot that
"swampy" feel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tall cypress
trees and their knobby roots, or knees, protrude from the lake, providing prime
habitat for waterfowl and fish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From
shore the lake looks like a vast green prairie amidst a profusion of huge
cypress trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Narrow trails of water connect
small pools of dark water and large open areas of lake dominate some areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But venturing in a boat into this swamp
reveals an even more beautiful sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The flat green carpet takes form in a tangle of large lily pads, some
two feet across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Towering over the
lilies stand cattails, their syrupy brown stalks rising above our heads Boating
among the towering cypress, with the pure white and starling yellow water
lilies in spring bloom, is enchanting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVW-oKGokl2SI8BYYYqEb6Z1Uy_152L7dI9eo9eRqxHO2rzI2dc6xYOcVIIOfGSGDYh4CrfzDbL6OJU-DAtE_ECxKAUW8YgmruZfYM2bGDyi164BixE8DugZlLv_Ys0qvDWn0obPRpq4/s1600/AW1A8311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="343" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVW-oKGokl2SI8BYYYqEb6Z1Uy_152L7dI9eo9eRqxHO2rzI2dc6xYOcVIIOfGSGDYh4CrfzDbL6OJU-DAtE_ECxKAUW8YgmruZfYM2bGDyi164BixE8DugZlLv_Ys0qvDWn0obPRpq4/s320/AW1A8311.jpg" width="219" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Reelfoot is regionally famous for its crappie,
bream, and largemouth bass fishing, the prime season being early spring when the
crappie begin their spawning runs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
area teems with fishing enthusiasts, particularly in the spring and fall, and a
large support industry of fishing camps, motels, cottages, and restaurants has
sprung up around the lake to provide services to fishermen and other outdoorsy
types.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="WordSection3">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHlkEDFxmcYkMt9xG9QgIPmY4ArpLr0aNVrYYGUD2qxFeBt8_r2yZMI2GgashKtqqXqIdj5B1YQDiIfukJlYNeGHYlPEFbeQF4xAy36569R7VXLNBT6GC7u5I3blJrhmKtX-_zakd7Oc/s1600/AW1A8518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="478" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHlkEDFxmcYkMt9xG9QgIPmY4ArpLr0aNVrYYGUD2qxFeBt8_r2yZMI2GgashKtqqXqIdj5B1YQDiIfukJlYNeGHYlPEFbeQF4xAy36569R7VXLNBT6GC7u5I3blJrhmKtX-_zakd7Oc/s320/AW1A8518.jpg" width="305" /></a>Fishing is not the only attraction
of Reelfoot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A small but growing
contingent of bald eagles also makes the lake home during the winter
months.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eagle-watching trips are a prime
attraction during the winter months and are increasing in popularity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Reelfoot Lake State Park, located on the
lake’s shore, offers eagle tours from December through February.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Park naturalists will take you on a guided
expedition to glimpse the birds and fill you in on their history and habits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you prefer to go it alone, the wildlife
refuge offers a visitor center that will give you directions on best areas to
view eagles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The refuge has two
observation towers hiking trails and the option of a driving tour through the
Grassy Island area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re lucky you
might spot a white-tailed deer or wild turkey.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjqZ4h35-JdHhXux7Y2b84tla1i22-pj43Rw9_350y7vs8KCOOsF_kbMm4l0OrVcvUNXNAL0yFfYV2j-_9EnwrXJ_EzFuqdI9RjmyxG08HPOIC5EtTceNarVNFLBg8hV9EuO_NT1MSAM/s1600/AW1A8795.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="389" data-original-width="500" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjqZ4h35-JdHhXux7Y2b84tla1i22-pj43Rw9_350y7vs8KCOOsF_kbMm4l0OrVcvUNXNAL0yFfYV2j-_9EnwrXJ_EzFuqdI9RjmyxG08HPOIC5EtTceNarVNFLBg8hV9EuO_NT1MSAM/s320/AW1A8795.jpg" width="320" /></a>This is not a wilderness lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The shoreline is dotted with fishing camps
and private cabins.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Boat docks extend
out into the lake at frequent intervals and there are motels and restaurants
along the roads skirting the lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
attractions are waterfowl hunting, fishing, and birdwatching.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The best way to experience Reelfoot is by
staying in one of the many motels or fishing cabins sprinkled around the lake’s
edges and spending the days on the lake fishing or enjoying the natural
surroundings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the lodges and
camps offer inexpensive packages which include the use of a boat with
lodging.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Numerous restaurants in the
area offer hearty all-you-can-eat meals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Notable among these are Boyette’s and the Blue Bank.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both offer excellent lightly breaded catfish,
country ham, and all the fixings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Enough
to satisfy the heartiest appetite after a day out in the sun and wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
For information contact the
Reelfoot Lake Tourist Council, 901-538-2666 or Reelfoot Lake State Park,
901-253-7756<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
</div>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 200%;"><br clear="all" style="mso-break-type: section-break; page-break-before: auto;" />
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; text-indent: 0.5in;">
</div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-78576726063846055432020-04-18T10:31:00.002-05:002021-05-11T21:38:08.343-05:00Birding Alabama's Tennessee Valley<i><strong>A version of this article was originally published in Bird Watcher' Digest.</strong></i><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Admit it; you think <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state> is all cotton
fields and red dirt roads right?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure, you’ve
heard of <st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state>’s <st1:placetype w:st="on">Gulf</st1:placetype>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Coast</st1:placetype> and <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Dauphin</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype></st1:place>,
well known and fruitful birding destinations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But the rest of the state?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not
much else to see you say.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59p-BMs5C7i3Bd6gxVdiJHQO_dtmcZH7um5pDDwrbjKK12grX7mfPcUzLwkzJ0bXCDrXRX6-PS5Au6UnP9FjL5w2SLHGaLy1XXas3j5RDZqgyIeK84kkIVfd_Ff0YvQHht2Y2Oq43rBg/s1600/AW1A2335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="466" data-original-width="500" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi59p-BMs5C7i3Bd6gxVdiJHQO_dtmcZH7um5pDDwrbjKK12grX7mfPcUzLwkzJ0bXCDrXRX6-PS5Au6UnP9FjL5w2SLHGaLy1XXas3j5RDZqgyIeK84kkIVfd_Ff0YvQHht2Y2Oq43rBg/s320/AW1A2335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">You are wrong Grasshopper.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Stretching across the
northern tier of the state is the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Valley</st1:placetype></st1:place>, with the most
varied landscape in the state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the
dense woodlands of the <st1:placename w:st="on">Bankhead</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">National Forest</st1:placetype> and Sipsey Wilderness in northwestern
<st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>,
through the lakes and rivers of the central valley, to the mountains in the
northeast corner, the Valley’s diversity is astonishing. These diverse
environments provide attractive habitats for numerous species of resident and
transient bird species. The forests attract woodland birds, the waterways and
tupelo and cypress swamps provide habitat for waterfowl, and acres of open fields
and grasslands are filled with songbirds. And all of this variety is within an
easy day’s drive; <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state></st1:place>
is only 180 miles wide.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfgnirQlVgCSynBbc46YriMillYk1UUhsrzzOmFxOLwlfHfW9m2GHW01sEUK_lgQgK7FjAKw7Ge4zg34ATTjzKVp529QR7g49OCJ6PcjUSB772KvC8KeC35CHn2vLfNyZ39cHSgRh30s/s1600/AW1A0177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfgnirQlVgCSynBbc46YriMillYk1UUhsrzzOmFxOLwlfHfW9m2GHW01sEUK_lgQgK7FjAKw7Ge4zg34ATTjzKVp529QR7g49OCJ6PcjUSB772KvC8KeC35CHn2vLfNyZ39cHSgRh30s/s320/AW1A0177.jpg" width="296" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p></o:p></span><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Threading through these
lands is the <b>North Alabama Birding Trail</b>, a network of 50 individual
sites spanning north <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>.
The sites range from simple roadside pull-offs, to short walking trails, to
more remote locales accessed only by lengthy hikes or even canoes. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">The trail sites are divided among
three loops, each offering unique birding opportunities. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Let’s start our trek in the northwest corner of the
state with the Northwest Loop which consists of fifteen sites that lead visitors
along the shores of Wheeler, <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Wilson</st1:place></st1:city>,
and Pickwick lakes. These three lakes are home to large numbers of gulls, bald
eagles, and numerous species of waterfowl. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Our first stop is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Rock Springs Nature Trail </b>near the historic Natchez Trace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trail follows a small creek that has been
backed up by beaver dams.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Orange
jewelweed grows in abundance along the banks of the waterway and attracts hundreds
of migrating ruby-throated hummingbirds, as well as vagrant black-chinned and rufous
hummers. Summer and winter birding will reveal Acadian flycatcher, red-shouldered
hawk and pileated, red-bellied, hairy and downy woodpecker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a lot of history along the Natchez
Trace so while you’re in the area take a leisurely drive along the Trace and
visit the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Meriwether</st1:placename>
<st1:placename w:st="on">Lewis</st1:placename> <st1:placename w:st="on">Monument</st1:placename></st1:place>
where Lewis, of the famous Lewis & Clark expedition, met his fate under
suspicious circumstances.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also along the
Trace are ancient Indian mounds, Civil War sites and remnants of the original
Trace, overgrown ruts where thousands of wagons, horses and settlers passed as
they traded and emigrated along this historic pioneer trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IzrRCTxdca_hBcKYAT799sKbGKMqaoM9ciHbT5OJe06sdiGQV1lOtUYmj5-Qx6mVIq2eUyPNZPAYpyNq5MlvQ3a7V_HVn8kFAXi5x2jB60zk-fXUTdCpCOoFGvxCxC7qG8IpJ21sKBI/s1600/AW1A3895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="408" data-original-width="500" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IzrRCTxdca_hBcKYAT799sKbGKMqaoM9ciHbT5OJe06sdiGQV1lOtUYmj5-Qx6mVIq2eUyPNZPAYpyNq5MlvQ3a7V_HVn8kFAXi5x2jB60zk-fXUTdCpCOoFGvxCxC7qG8IpJ21sKBI/s320/AW1A3895.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Key Cave National
Wildlife Refuge</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
protects a resident population of endangered Alabama Cavefish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the cave itself is closed to the
public, the surrounding acreage has been returned to native grasslands which
abound with grasshopper sparrow, bobolink and dickcissel as well as the
occasional short-eared owl.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">A site just below <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wheeler Dam</b> on the <st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee River</st1:place>
provides views of hundreds of double crested cormorants, common loons, white
pelicans, and herring, ring-necked and Bonaparte’s gulls. A similar stop below <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wilson Dam</b> also hosts gulls, black-crowned
and yellow-crowned night herons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be sure
to check the “Rockpile” on the south shore below the dam for great crested flycatcher
and prothonotary warbler.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
Migrating shorebirds stop over at <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Leighton
Ponds</b>, a hodgepodge of sinkholes and flooded lowland areas just east of the
town of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Tuscumbia</st1:city></st1:place>
where white pelicans, great blue heron, semipalmated plover, wood stork, white
ibis and other waterfowl congregate.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh91lbXVgzNyfs_Kl09rLQG2lNyGRFtSnc0F9dY3bffyY9joGXEMptPq8Rvwgn72hdT-SeqftRgixe4Znl1L7Nlu1jLeRxh6KgmQm5jXj2-YIlllXknLQox-9uZ73me8k_E8vM_lTvUpTQ/s1600/AW1A5120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="437" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh91lbXVgzNyfs_Kl09rLQG2lNyGRFtSnc0F9dY3bffyY9joGXEMptPq8Rvwgn72hdT-SeqftRgixe4Znl1L7Nlu1jLeRxh6KgmQm5jXj2-YIlllXknLQox-9uZ73me8k_E8vM_lTvUpTQ/s320/AW1A5120.jpg" width="279" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBB-hshdEgctsDgZ4S7My9nyzNp208I3tzwFlvsc4ED5Yi_7N2rdlX_kdZ6itMRqK3gME6xnirBP9XNb1QiBdy1rbbbMAhEPaJDhngQUEiP7heW9W24BrFuiCyGCxJVey6bylq_vqTTzg/s1600/AW1A2287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="500" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBB-hshdEgctsDgZ4S7My9nyzNp208I3tzwFlvsc4ED5Yi_7N2rdlX_kdZ6itMRqK3gME6xnirBP9XNb1QiBdy1rbbbMAhEPaJDhngQUEiP7heW9W24BrFuiCyGCxJVey6bylq_vqTTzg/s320/AW1A2287.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Bankhead</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placetype w:st="on">National Forest</st1:placetype></span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> covers 180,000 acres of mature
pine and hardwood forests, fallow fields, and river habitat along the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Sipsey</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">River</st1:placetype></st1:place>
and is a good place to spot barred owl, pine warbler, cerulean warbler and brown-headed
nuthatch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rent a canoe and float the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Sipsey</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">River</st1:placetype></st1:place>
through the Sipsey Wilderness, a beautiful float among hardwood forests and
steep limestone bluffs and a pleasant and relaxing way to spot ducks and waterfowl.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">The <st1:place w:st="on">Central Loop</st1:place>
features 18 stops, the most visited being <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wheeler
National Wildlife Refuge</b>. During the winter months, this refuge is home to
thousands of sandhill cranes and ducks that rest and feed in the refuge’s
backwaters and fields. Check out the visitor center and then walk a couple of
hundred yards along a wooded path to an impressive heated observation building
overlooking an open body of water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At
peak migration time this pool teems with thousands of American shoveler, gadwall,
ring-necked duck, northern pintail, wood duck, redhead, Canada, snow and greater
white-fronted goose, pied-billed grebe, as well as birds of prey such as American
kestrel, northern harrier, and an occasional bald eagle and osprey. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wheeler has seen a steadily increasing winter sandhill
crane population over the years, with almost 12,000 cranes counted in 2013, a
record for the refuge. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other productive
spots within the refuge include <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Limestone
Bay/Arrowhead Landing</b> where American white pelican, great egret, lesser scaup,
green-winged teal, red-breasted merganser and common loon can be spotted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is also a good place to spy unusual <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state> visitors like red-necked
Grebe and rough legged hawk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGQbAZb4LMyxIGS69bjs3ZzPdwE5JglowBSFcRrMv5PaXZJSjZyK-vELL_OQK76huoOY_GmJVSFyKsMsM7ab0h_s1ALetXqWio0kxgpPpP546c34FWYgBiUiQpUtyxdInQXCu6My5_BY/s1600/AW1A4285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="467" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqGQbAZb4LMyxIGS69bjs3ZzPdwE5JglowBSFcRrMv5PaXZJSjZyK-vELL_OQK76huoOY_GmJVSFyKsMsM7ab0h_s1ALetXqWio0kxgpPpP546c34FWYgBiUiQpUtyxdInQXCu6My5_BY/s320/AW1A4285.jpg" width="298" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">The big news at Wheeler is a small but consistent overwintering
population of endangered whooping cranes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For the last half-dozen years 3-7 whoopers have made Wheeler their
winter home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the 2011-12 winter,
nine whooping cranes from Operation Migration flew to <st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state>
then refused to follow Operation Migration’s ultralight aircraft further south
to their intended winter destination in <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Florida</st1:place></st1:state>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They contentedly hunkered down in a less-than-ideal
spot in western <st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state> until <st1:place w:st="on">OM</st1:place> staff decided to capture them and transport them to
Wheeler NWR where they would be better protected.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those nine birds stayed at Wheeler until
late April before finally departing for their summer home in <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Wisconsin</st1:place></st1:state>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The hope was that, having imprinted on Wheeler as their winter home,
they would return.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much to the delight
of refuge staff and visitors, four <st1:place w:st="on">OM</st1:place> birds
returned in late 2012, along with seven others.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To observe this welcome influx of cranes, in
January 2013 the refuge sponsored its first annual Festival of the Cranes with
educational and entertainment programs, ranger-led hikes, and films celebrating
the birds. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_bGV6aUCmLNuW-icnbAVFIO6GPOpMYvUQw7OI_yTRoDUzSUjIry53bAfyh_XtfCU5GLbbH1fYo1GqAhqHDKKVsqrmS0HrazN2cd80nPrk0UD6RBpi6rLDSxKLzffgh_nfa8R-gkVwDM/s1600/AW1A4713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="301" data-original-width="500" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_bGV6aUCmLNuW-icnbAVFIO6GPOpMYvUQw7OI_yTRoDUzSUjIry53bAfyh_XtfCU5GLbbH1fYo1GqAhqHDKKVsqrmS0HrazN2cd80nPrk0UD6RBpi6rLDSxKLzffgh_nfa8R-gkVwDM/s320/AW1A4713.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">A few miles up the road is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Swan Creek Wildlife Management Area</b> on the <st1:place w:st="on">Tennessee
River</st1:place>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mudflats along the
river here support killdeer and greater and lesser yellowlegs and more uncommon
species like Baird’s sandpiper, black-bellied plover and American avocet.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxWHbk3tQB9eBRV460AlvoP085MLSOXqXJAr5YBrJWwe1OVywostmtx7_XlQnrktF1V_ABXbmJVb0MUTsXLHszmi9A4e9VhTVZwEW7xe5MdZI_17KkfxLFCfmfeYQlT7NXsB1GaUJ7AU/s1600/AW1A4839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="425" data-original-width="500" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxWHbk3tQB9eBRV460AlvoP085MLSOXqXJAr5YBrJWwe1OVywostmtx7_XlQnrktF1V_ABXbmJVb0MUTsXLHszmi9A4e9VhTVZwEW7xe5MdZI_17KkfxLFCfmfeYQlT7NXsB1GaUJ7AU/s320/AW1A4839.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Monte Sano State
Park</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> overlooks
the city of <st1:city w:st="on">Huntsville</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state>
and its wooded highlands atop a ridge of the <st1:place w:st="on">Cumberland
Plateau</st1:place> attract hundreds of neotropical migrants in the spring and
fall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cerulean warblers, black-and-white
warblers, blue-gray gnatcatchers, and yellow-billed cuckoos are good
finds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Monte Sano is crisscrossed with
many hiking and biking trails.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Take the Red
Trail to Fagan Springs to find golden-crowned Kinglets and winter wren.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Before you leave <st1:city w:st="on">Huntsville</st1:city>
visit the U.S. Space & Rocket Center, an expansive museum that documents <st1:city w:st="on">Huntsville</st1:city>’s role in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">America</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s space program.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Center includes an IMAX theater, interactive
displays, hundreds of historical space artifacts, a full scale space shuttle and
a Saturn V rocket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Hays Nature
Preserve</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, along
the banks of the <st1:place w:st="on">Flint River</st1:place>, offers riparian
habitat and open grasslands and is a good place to see belted kingfisher, great
blue heron, eastern bluebird, song sparrow, field sparrow and white-throated sparrow.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdQnoC-4UNNL9VhUMEZaO7EQeZKic-0EJDCLBCsh099ZiCSNk25iCcB4-cPM_92dNlhCq4Khkp349kurG9hrpHCbnHo99qSYDT_OzxG02S7bAmpn2iY8FXUXCz8HK1KuA73nalpY0s44/s1600/AW1A5565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="498" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdQnoC-4UNNL9VhUMEZaO7EQeZKic-0EJDCLBCsh099ZiCSNk25iCcB4-cPM_92dNlhCq4Khkp349kurG9hrpHCbnHo99qSYDT_OzxG02S7bAmpn2iY8FXUXCz8HK1KuA73nalpY0s44/s320/AW1A5565.jpg" width="318" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB90MxvZiabxTfgTDVFoMcERuLBWtGPBU83Nl4FfC8nbgzVL3nV8L9C5r4yzYZRUdBDuPUesiehJFBpEa6RApz-YNw8CQnD0Dn-Hezth0oIODMDxX3ODHs8g229yA3-HjOFKC2Yz5E_HY/s1600/AW1A8176.CR2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB90MxvZiabxTfgTDVFoMcERuLBWtGPBU83Nl4FfC8nbgzVL3nV8L9C5r4yzYZRUdBDuPUesiehJFBpEa6RApz-YNw8CQnD0Dn-Hezth0oIODMDxX3ODHs8g229yA3-HjOFKC2Yz5E_HY/s320/AW1A8176.CR2" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSB95K-UkykM8PwKcZcnYyhAa9OEFZIYmjnw3rg0v9T-w-Cm_GM7pOszTzbTuvGrmVmsDEsjtwRSFx2wcS0N58AHNozoXMZ7S3KDJL8E803jmVzsHg_mZ8aQQdKv0bJeRwvhyCVe_hyE/s1600/AW1A8913.CR2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSB95K-UkykM8PwKcZcnYyhAa9OEFZIYmjnw3rg0v9T-w-Cm_GM7pOszTzbTuvGrmVmsDEsjtwRSFx2wcS0N58AHNozoXMZ7S3KDJL8E803jmVzsHg_mZ8aQQdKv0bJeRwvhyCVe_hyE/s320/AW1A8913.CR2" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><br />
<br />
The <st1:place w:st="on">Northeast Loop</st1:place> rambles through the Appalachian
foothills of the remote northeast part of the state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first stop in this loop is <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sauta</b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Cave</st1:placetype></b></st1:place><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> National Wildlife Refuge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></b>The refuge<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>is only 264 acres but is a good place to pick up prothonotary warbler.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the main attraction is the population of
250,000 endangered gray bats, the largest single population in the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During June, July and August the bats emerge
from the cave at dusk for their nightly insect hunt and it is a sight not to be
missed.</span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRYMOjFN2bixjSfKx4KcJETEX5Vw_0ldDhtNXwnAHP62uOw_uQjMRF69G8Cp2VUAlSD48fyBmurvOXVO_lcjEbv1mVoW8RUPRW5I5-WJxm4iWU62wLUMV21cUUG-3GJBGq7F6yPlFHbM/s1600/AW1A0710.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="451" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRYMOjFN2bixjSfKx4KcJETEX5Vw_0ldDhtNXwnAHP62uOw_uQjMRF69G8Cp2VUAlSD48fyBmurvOXVO_lcjEbv1mVoW8RUPRW5I5-WJxm4iWU62wLUMV21cUUG-3GJBGq7F6yPlFHbM/s320/AW1A0710.jpg" width="288" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBHyuaYGSk-o266ExctiGZi0PCbsvZRlkqDDNAjaRNMajqU0rNw-ZoCLqYZvV9G81T_tQz7LyqfccFlud2aH1ffV0cxYTqR-oKBGicgIjMbtZYWGvPJHLEP29SIbLTLZs0IANpo4saYk/s1600/AW1A0732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="497" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBHyuaYGSk-o266ExctiGZi0PCbsvZRlkqDDNAjaRNMajqU0rNw-ZoCLqYZvV9G81T_tQz7LyqfccFlud2aH1ffV0cxYTqR-oKBGicgIjMbtZYWGvPJHLEP29SIbLTLZs0IANpo4saYk/s320/AW1A0732.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
<br />
<o:p></o:p></span><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Bald eagles have experienced a major resurgence in <st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state>,
nowhere more so than <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Guntersville</b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <st1:placetype w:st="on">State Park</st1:placetype></b></st1:place>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The park’s Eagle Awareness Weekends, hosted
over multiple weekends in January and February, are a sure way to see these
magnificent birds perching in bare trees along the banks of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Lake</b></st1:placetype><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <st1:placename w:st="on">Guntersville</st1:placename></b></st1:place>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ranger-led hikes, films and birding programs
anchor the weekend events.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake
covers 67,900 acres and there are multiple places for birding for red-breasted
Merganser, lesser scaup, common loon, hooded grebe, red-shouldered hawk, double-crested
cormorant and osprey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Uncommon visitors
like merlin, peregrine falcon, rough-legged hawk,</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> long-tailed duck, western
grebe and Pacific loon</span><span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> have been
seen here.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqfk4TaOxCt6ExiGI_ZvOb-sjDpnQSd0EbzFfkJQrb8dFvZsFGM2c6URCTTYhqjrKHCQn1dh3UigQHopWeAC9GVe_aDn7TsNv6Qfh_G0wagQwRB5TsFxGzUB06vX1J-jEccXBdhHXllw/s1600/AW1A7391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="444" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqfk4TaOxCt6ExiGI_ZvOb-sjDpnQSd0EbzFfkJQrb8dFvZsFGM2c6URCTTYhqjrKHCQn1dh3UigQHopWeAC9GVe_aDn7TsNv6Qfh_G0wagQwRB5TsFxGzUB06vX1J-jEccXBdhHXllw/s320/AW1A7391.jpg" width="284" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="style291"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Buck’s Pocket State Park</span></b></span><span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> is another good bald eagle refuge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rent a canoe and paddle South Sauty Creek and
Morgan’s Cove looking for eagle nests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You’ll also likely see belted kingfisher, great blue heron and great egret.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Skyline Wildlife
Management Area </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">has
over 46,000 acres that are best visited in the spring when migrating species
such as prairie warbler, indigo bunting and yellow-breasted chat are present,
but year round residents include wild turkey and northern bobwhite and—the real
attraction--<st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>’s
only population of ruffed grouse. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Russell Cave
National Monument</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">’s
nature trails and elevated boardwalks make for easy birding among hardwood
forests full of summer and scarlet tanagers, yellow-billed cuckoo and good
numbers of warblers during migration season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>On the drive into the National Monument on County Road 75, keep your
eyes open along the roadsides and farm fields for blue-gray gnatcatcher, white-eyed
vireo, and cerulean warbler. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtWRXYschBcmq4H76UfRwJmaKc7ph9T_ulixb9SOEtQFvvdcsPHOAW-gyicDq7ZitgDOz_6e_jz2S0tA3jo_i3v9iUjIZecY4kdWf1A1ZoeC2tOClbll0SMl0bphoIMEjWFEH32erDeY/s1600/AW1A7322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtWRXYschBcmq4H76UfRwJmaKc7ph9T_ulixb9SOEtQFvvdcsPHOAW-gyicDq7ZitgDOz_6e_jz2S0tA3jo_i3v9iUjIZecY4kdWf1A1ZoeC2tOClbll0SMl0bphoIMEjWFEH32erDeY/s320/AW1A7322.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Arguably the most scenic location in north <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Alabama</st1:state></st1:place>,<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Little River Canyon National Preserve </b>covers
14,000 acres of sheer cliffs, 900-foot deep canyons, raging whitewater, and
thick hardwood and pine forests. Called the “Grand Canyon of the East”, Little
River Canyon is the deepest canyon east of the <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Mississippi</st1:place></st1:state>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This rugged area has few trails, most of them are strenuous and Little
River is a wild Class III to Class IV run, so floating the river is not a
viable birding option.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fortunately, <st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">Rim Drive</st1:address></st1:street> skirts
the canyon for 23.x miles and has numerous turnouts for spying a healthy raptor
population that includes </span><span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">red-tailed
and broad-winged hawks and the occasional peregrine falcon and golden eagle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cliff swallow, rough winged swallow and chimney
swift zoom alongside the cliffs and woodland birds like red-eyed vireo, yellow-breasted
chat, prairie warbler and yellow-throated warbler haunt the thick forests.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBLgJKVRsQUXgylpCh_Sw4Rse4geYUwhYnKjozPW63ppYgUTtCuk4Bz8TF3KgKRSTjJzrR9cABATxcEa_vh-t71E07r13Vrh9oahzIYoQUg1wTop8EVaLod59q0QsRo92wNCteRAnNu0/s1600/AW1A7337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="1526" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiBLgJKVRsQUXgylpCh_Sw4Rse4geYUwhYnKjozPW63ppYgUTtCuk4Bz8TF3KgKRSTjJzrR9cABATxcEa_vh-t71E07r13Vrh9oahzIYoQUg1wTop8EVaLod59q0QsRo92wNCteRAnNu0/s320/AW1A7337.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<br />
<span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">If Little River Canyon is ruggedly inaccessible,<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">DeSoto</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">State Park</st1:placetype></st1:place> </b>is user friendly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A network of trails meanders through park’s
hilly woodlands, an easy way to hike and enjoy seeing glimpses of Kentucky, hooded,
black-and-white, blue-winged and golden-winged warblers, wood thrush, rose-breasted
grosbeak and a wide variety of woodpeckers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A good day’s hike will wear you out; fortunately you can have a good’s
night sleep in the park’s lodge or one of the rustic chalets and enjoy a meal
at the lodge restaurant.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><o:p></o:p></b></span></span></div>
<span class="style291"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMVpj-rEoDTfFJmDElOibmbmJQa_Tp9VZgn8H9Mdycz_VjkZFSuVbSWwcJqTcDqlpC0w-yk3NsJ7RYdT755o9BJa1xQAi658gub-0_j1gTaYMiHQfRFR40E3nRx0OUEORlIre66LrkpI/s1600/AW1A7356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1115" data-original-width="1335" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMVpj-rEoDTfFJmDElOibmbmJQa_Tp9VZgn8H9Mdycz_VjkZFSuVbSWwcJqTcDqlpC0w-yk3NsJ7RYdT755o9BJa1xQAi658gub-0_j1gTaYMiHQfRFR40E3nRx0OUEORlIre66LrkpI/s320/AW1A7356.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Sounds like a full plate
right?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And those are just the high
spots, the full menu of birding sites will add even more to your <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state> trek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can adjust your trip to spend as few or
as many days as you’d like in north <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">So forget all your
preconceived notions of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Alabama</st1:place></st1:state>
birding being only a southern coastal phenomenon and head to the other end of
the state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Northern Alabama offers
perhaps an even greater variety of birds than the coastal region—over 300
different species have been observed in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Tennessee</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Valley</st1:placetype></st1:place>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As Master Po would say <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“Expect the unexpected Grasshopper.”<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Visitor Information<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">North Alabama
Birding Trail<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="http://www.northalabamabirdingtrail.com/"><span style="color: blue;">www.northalabamabirdingtrail.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">866-238-4748<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Wheeler National
Wildlife Refuge/Key Cave National Wildlife Refuge/Sauty Cave National Wildlife
Refuge<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">2700 Refuge
Headquarters Road</span></st1:address></st1:street><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Decatur</span></st1:city><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35603</st1:postalcode></span></st1:place><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="mailto:wheeler@fws.gov"><span style="color: blue;">wheeler@fws.gov</span></a><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">256-350-6639<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Bankhead</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placetype w:st="on">National Forest</st1:placetype></span></b></st1:place><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">District Ranger<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">P.O. Box278 <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Double Springs</span></st1:city><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35553</st1:postalcode></span></st1:place><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><a href="http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/alabama"><span style="color: blue;">www.fs.fed.us/r8/alabama</span></a><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">205-489-5111<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Monte</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placename w:st="on">Sano</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">State
Park</st1:placetype></span></b></st1:place><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">5105 Nolen
Avenue</span></st1:address></st1:street><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Huntsville</span></st1:city><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35801</st1:postalcode></span></st1:place><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">256-534-3757<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Guntersville</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placetype w:st="on">State Park</st1:placetype></span></b></st1:place><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">7966 AL HWY</span></st1:address></st1:street><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> 227<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Guntersville</span></st1:city><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35976</st1:postalcode></span></st1:place><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">256-571-5444<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Russell</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placename w:st="on">Cave</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">National
Monument</st1:placetype> </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">and<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> Little <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">River</st1:placetype> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Canyon</st1:placetype></st1:place>
National Preserve<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">2141 Gault Ave N</span></st1:address></st1:street><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Ft <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Payne</st1:city>,
<st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35967</st1:postalcode></st1:place><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">256-845-9605<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">DeSoto</span></b></st1:placename><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
<st1:placetype w:st="on">State Park</st1:placetype></span></b></st1:place><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">13883 County
Road</span></st1:address></st1:street><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">
89<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Ft.</span></st1:placetype><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> Payne</span></st1:city><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">, <st1:state w:st="on">AL</st1:state><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><st1:postalcode w:st="on">35967</st1:postalcode></span></st1:place><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">256-845-0051<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none;">
</div>
</div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-32746289229686851182020-04-10T10:32:00.002-05:002020-04-10T10:32:18.327-05:00Vietnam<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOuaOD8rZcDSChWAqabq09bcZMusz830sil9OH249cJbtwDqyvv8CbuNZKwckxc6pXVg0lcUsmamY-Y-1Jc7PK7CwGuOubL1T4-BFvMsVp95WUbSR8DinCpEYObSOqg5EVSEAfyVKvVM/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="992" data-original-width="1600" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOuaOD8rZcDSChWAqabq09bcZMusz830sil9OH249cJbtwDqyvv8CbuNZKwckxc6pXVg0lcUsmamY-Y-1Jc7PK7CwGuOubL1T4-BFvMsVp95WUbSR8DinCpEYObSOqg5EVSEAfyVKvVM/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-138.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZvRaxZnbYmO6f9bY92QDkOFAKQUijqMrHV05ZezVjWqdz8phfmZfN6BVb935iJz5UrceURjDT1D1kynyVVTMfqe30Shy9qLB_711GYZS2eLJseeRoBBYN4EeFqraoInJQYxQoYXOsDQ/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZvRaxZnbYmO6f9bY92QDkOFAKQUijqMrHV05ZezVjWqdz8phfmZfN6BVb935iJz5UrceURjDT1D1kynyVVTMfqe30Shy9qLB_711GYZS2eLJseeRoBBYN4EeFqraoInJQYxQoYXOsDQ/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-140.jpg" width="320" /></a>"Thin country, thin houses, thin people". That's how our guide Anh described Vietnam. If you look at a map of Vietnam you'll see that it is indeed long and thin. The people are also thin and the houses are built with narrow street fronts because they are taxed on the amount of street frontage. The "long" (Vietnam is over 1000 miles from north to south) is a great asset in terms of terrain and variety. The southern part includes the Mekong River Delta and lowland jungle, the northern part encompasses the Red River Delta. Somewhere in between lies the Central Highlands. With so much variety what to pick? We opted for the Central Highlands and were not disappointed.<br />
<br />
We hopped a flight into Hanoi out of Sandakan in Borneo and landed in a modern bustling city alive with nightlife, traffic and gleaming buildings. Did I mention traffic? Exploring central Hanoi on foot is taking your life in your hands. The SOP is to cross streets at a steady pace and to a large extent depend on oncoming traffic not to kill you. Never hesitate, never run. A steady pace across a multi-lane street, while hair-raising, is the key. Keeping an eye on oncoming cars and scooters while traversing s busy thoroughfare is a life-altering experience.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MzcLNqq_x7w47klmzYk1nduNawonH2gQsdZitdt5fCK-9SG9YDA3VwKVLKVUujrELBQX6chsiq4HAS-5FsqR506M8z9Fot8m1gh9XmIAlIxz9rNp8jL0CTVNP7OCEsNWFycCsc7V0X8/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-78.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MzcLNqq_x7w47klmzYk1nduNawonH2gQsdZitdt5fCK-9SG9YDA3VwKVLKVUujrELBQX6chsiq4HAS-5FsqR506M8z9Fot8m1gh9XmIAlIxz9rNp8jL0CTVNP7OCEsNWFycCsc7V0X8/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-78.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside <br />"Hanoi Hilton" Hoa Lo Prison</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We lodged in the Old Quarter, in the heart of the historic part of Hanoi, an exciting mixture of ancient temples, French architecture in buildings and houses and modern hotels, bars and restaurants. Our first stop was Hoan Kiem Lake and picturesque Ngoc Son Temple, located in the middle of the lake. A leisurely stop for famous egg coffee and on to Hoa Lo Prison, the infamous "Hanoi Hilton" where American POWs, including Senator John McCain, were held during the Vietnam War. To the victors go the spoils I guess because the history presented here is one of American imperial aggression and the bulk of the history addresses the French colonial mistreatment of Vietnamese nationals. The few kiosks that address American prisoners present a pleasant picture of Christmas trees and contentment.<br />
<br />
Deeper into the city we come upon Huu Tiep Lake, better known now as "B-52 Lake" where the wreckage of an American B-52 bomber is visible, a grim reminder of the bombing that took place here in 1973. Our last stop is the Hanoi railroad tracks where an active railway slcies through the city with houses and shops mere yards on both sides of the tracks.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvaKreNG_Zon7q1GgYO3UE4alENAuo8s9k9BE0Igu_gSzcAb7-SWqItC1igcgOuHA9JMfVe3VLv65XC_PTxTlblH_xrqmK_b74JrCmao7vkpv7bP7ilazXWsPDZ-NskLMN64hbjNLIIo/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvaKreNG_Zon7q1GgYO3UE4alENAuo8s9k9BE0Igu_gSzcAb7-SWqItC1igcgOuHA9JMfVe3VLv65XC_PTxTlblH_xrqmK_b74JrCmao7vkpv7bP7ilazXWsPDZ-NskLMN64hbjNLIIo/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1600" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvaKreNG_Zon7q1GgYO3UE4alENAuo8s9k9BE0Igu_gSzcAb7-SWqItC1igcgOuHA9JMfVe3VLv65XC_PTxTlblH_xrqmK_b74JrCmao7vkpv7bP7ilazXWsPDZ-NskLMN64hbjNLIIo/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-112.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanoi street scene</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvaKreNG_Zon7q1GgYO3UE4alENAuo8s9k9BE0Igu_gSzcAb7-SWqItC1igcgOuHA9JMfVe3VLv65XC_PTxTlblH_xrqmK_b74JrCmao7vkpv7bP7ilazXWsPDZ-NskLMN64hbjNLIIo/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvaKreNG_Zon7q1GgYO3UE4alENAuo8s9k9BE0Igu_gSzcAb7-SWqItC1igcgOuHA9JMfVe3VLv65XC_PTxTlblH_xrqmK_b74JrCmao7vkpv7bP7ilazXWsPDZ-NskLMN64hbjNLIIo/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"> </a><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeS8SbovRICNcqBbcQND6SAB8Ppn6pl8Jvg56FIIwTyq_773jT9fN38JJcYENzlZTaCbh97yLpYWbxt2WLg9ABfKunSm-fgdKy7HDo_LOcdalgaB2buTGkL1hOWib5RGxbCgQRQ8faMw/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEeS8SbovRICNcqBbcQND6SAB8Ppn6pl8Jvg56FIIwTyq_773jT9fN38JJcYENzlZTaCbh97yLpYWbxt2WLg9ABfKunSm-fgdKy7HDo_LOcdalgaB2buTGkL1hOWib5RGxbCgQRQ8faMw/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-102.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">B-52 wreckage in Huu Tiep Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoGgdbh_qz_R1DSXsxNHK_d5lRf1xffXf_T23f4jtqmnu8c9QdEYe78xZ8b1p0KbLarwZ8YGeOmKZqoMhrnt28iFQQYfXNn-C9snQ4452Hw05zDDdrxSQR_9eTG78DEBtts6Fe05K524/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWoGgdbh_qz_R1DSXsxNHK_d5lRf1xffXf_T23f4jtqmnu8c9QdEYe78xZ8b1p0KbLarwZ8YGeOmKZqoMhrnt28iFQQYfXNn-C9snQ4452Hw05zDDdrxSQR_9eTG78DEBtts6Fe05K524/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-105.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"B-52 Café"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN153s4g581CiMhKiZD0BUWSiVeCe5HmcCO7zCsNd1DQbOpVYOCKdhsUVGxQK7u5O6JW-CjGzn014MgGdXf5cjl-MDn5x17j1Br8j5L03AI6Vg2L2Yg7QHtG2ZjttEI8UdeHGl264tPrE/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN153s4g581CiMhKiZD0BUWSiVeCe5HmcCO7zCsNd1DQbOpVYOCKdhsUVGxQK7u5O6JW-CjGzn014MgGdXf5cjl-MDn5x17j1Br8j5L03AI6Vg2L2Yg7QHtG2ZjttEI8UdeHGl264tPrE/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-130.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The railroad tracks through the heart of the city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Enough of the city, we came to trek through the countryside so onto Hoa Binh and Mai Chau where we revel in the local ethnic dishes of the "White Thai", delicious local food with a spicy flair. We grab bicycles and pedal through the countryside and spend the day biking through a series of local villages in an idyllic setting of terraced rice fields. In September when we are there the rice is lush and gorgeous, the deep green terraces set against wisps of silky mist wreathing the mountains with a clear blue sky. Breathtaking.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS5C54QqWtsg2ybyatW7c8xoLPub5kxPyB3wymvfP_arhe-8Ft4QPJg7IXTVwCc6TM511Jo16YAG3BgUxUDmT_7rrtSCHKE_U02dEAaXqASPeHCRvfa7_AUwjelL_ARl_Tjhpt6UCnEU0/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS5C54QqWtsg2ybyatW7c8xoLPub5kxPyB3wymvfP_arhe-8Ft4QPJg7IXTVwCc6TM511Jo16YAG3BgUxUDmT_7rrtSCHKE_U02dEAaXqASPeHCRvfa7_AUwjelL_ARl_Tjhpt6UCnEU0/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-176.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc3Q2FBCsHj6ZvKeEvuRL82-Sno2MryqIQ3mnu-P2Q305AhMtCklL8t2Xn9axTp4LtLC9z9q9YqoFr8mnLEAhSKFtGNIqCR6-3vEtT89XN524jQDp27YHTCVJryttDpSHweVY8GdGqHcM/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc3Q2FBCsHj6ZvKeEvuRL82-Sno2MryqIQ3mnu-P2Q305AhMtCklL8t2Xn9axTp4LtLC9z9q9YqoFr8mnLEAhSKFtGNIqCR6-3vEtT89XN524jQDp27YHTCVJryttDpSHweVY8GdGqHcM/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-198.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9FXW5Zkm_LQeRHPlpx6-sPui7vTTHRNSl57yXDC-y1NG0-CXlY4RoWRks8yfuo2PWwJnHlNyxF8qdFvoyBsazWfxXkRsV3P6wQGG3OAjJEHnaBOp5qPaWyy-FcOlg60YKJ69QzPQAxo/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK9FXW5Zkm_LQeRHPlpx6-sPui7vTTHRNSl57yXDC-y1NG0-CXlY4RoWRks8yfuo2PWwJnHlNyxF8qdFvoyBsazWfxXkRsV3P6wQGG3OAjJEHnaBOp5qPaWyy-FcOlg60YKJ69QzPQAxo/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-210.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jungle trekking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqz7eSiCfiYZz_JUMud6rLEMaATMC9vC0gHKN8EPb7mMnMXzd6yy6NVdsOan0p6QOBSYNyMlioRkQ-H6oK0Knrj094viTEmHR7eErkAfPA6MQN_jfwl3QU7aitIDHKST60hSr16KL9mhQ/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqz7eSiCfiYZz_JUMud6rLEMaATMC9vC0gHKN8EPb7mMnMXzd6yy6NVdsOan0p6QOBSYNyMlioRkQ-H6oK0Knrj094viTEmHR7eErkAfPA6MQN_jfwl3QU7aitIDHKST60hSr16KL9mhQ/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mY88kEDBRMRQJrqL5MHzZ-UFI9FzhYY8-DdwxsQaz-BidESXlxtpNxGgjXi6ynTbIzWHSYWZIG1vg_DduSmLG651nelDORgj6c2kRwXi7aIlbg3h6zitfre1215RUe7S2ftJ4ALEF0g/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-364.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mY88kEDBRMRQJrqL5MHzZ-UFI9FzhYY8-DdwxsQaz-BidESXlxtpNxGgjXi6ynTbIzWHSYWZIG1vg_DduSmLG651nelDORgj6c2kRwXi7aIlbg3h6zitfre1215RUe7S2ftJ4ALEF0g/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-364.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmmlVwYqjDwtiOEZJH7QsN4gGSbPuepEGm8VSgQ3Qv9p3SO8JyFuCDjQcAIUS9Afu8S7s__tA2BN_fixyK4dS9sgW3-twOnOXXivQEe9y-hLv7JEqK5Ts-S3vl-loKGfepNj5ESDruAQ/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimmmlVwYqjDwtiOEZJH7QsN4gGSbPuepEGm8VSgQ3Qv9p3SO8JyFuCDjQcAIUS9Afu8S7s__tA2BN_fixyK4dS9sgW3-twOnOXXivQEe9y-hLv7JEqK5Ts-S3vl-loKGfepNj5ESDruAQ/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We move on to Pu Luong Nature Reserve and trek through the rice paddies and jungles hillsides, Steep climbs and stream crossings are the menu for the trek and we head off into the remote countryside. Locals go about their day, cultivating by had their rice crop, fish farming, tilling fields, weaving and cooking. I love this part of the trip, away from the city, crowds and tourist areas.<br />
<br />
Ninh Binh is our next destination, and Hoa Lu, the former capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries and Mua Cave and the view of the landscape from the peak above--a 500 step trek up the staircase to the altar atop the peak.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhlXEJKBbgz1Zd2N_aY4koX8odr-EnuebVMFsPexeD3rUcJTSICb2prIZl1jHuduSA94Ulo9HeVUiSswwA8nWuF6yL-G0dA-rihjKBGkLS6WgPHOIKtAUjCmRFezjkyjEDc0gBxf26ZsU/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="1600" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhlXEJKBbgz1Zd2N_aY4koX8odr-EnuebVMFsPexeD3rUcJTSICb2prIZl1jHuduSA94Ulo9HeVUiSswwA8nWuF6yL-G0dA-rihjKBGkLS6WgPHOIKtAUjCmRFezjkyjEDc0gBxf26ZsU/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-214.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoa Lu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhosOTlDw1_zoFCxNUkflB6TYEGLBF7t0rPKTUehFpWjwwAyi8hXNR_hJ8WuwZePnCxkYGhNilNVkZM_11ECjytnzGQE01slj1j49DnyEYRlPOSydzv2A3qwYwE_7DLSha05Z6NZs-VUY0/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="961" data-original-width="1600" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhosOTlDw1_zoFCxNUkflB6TYEGLBF7t0rPKTUehFpWjwwAyi8hXNR_hJ8WuwZePnCxkYGhNilNVkZM_11ECjytnzGQE01slj1j49DnyEYRlPOSydzv2A3qwYwE_7DLSha05Z6NZs-VUY0/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-248.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the valley atop the peak</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Our last stop is a Halong Bay, truly on of the most beautiful spots in Vietnam. The dome shaped islands sprinkled among the crystal waters are incredible. and after a cruise, swimming in the bay, fishing and kayaking we watch a last sunset in Vietnam, the orange glow disappearing and gently replaced by a slow rising full moon, a simply enchanting sight. An incredible end to an adventure trek through this gorgeous country.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiwkVYO9S71d-Edq8OuSurIPqChbZOJyRrDSzRHOdgk-mTsHA7arRBs09LgT3TH3lqKTICKNHJkgDTz08EVGKO6rSYjb5cKm9Y2zxvSen3sarq2fdX2bT-2eqCeF0kWdYLUncTVz68rho/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="1600" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiwkVYO9S71d-Edq8OuSurIPqChbZOJyRrDSzRHOdgk-mTsHA7arRBs09LgT3TH3lqKTICKNHJkgDTz08EVGKO6rSYjb5cKm9Y2zxvSen3sarq2fdX2bT-2eqCeF0kWdYLUncTVz68rho/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-260.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixdThe9UcYwhZRcPvgzb7XkFDjlJkv4jmDTridwmbqwboOVaYMne0Pf9GcygS2_6AfuaLRsn1B2q6ps5w5nZsusE1miS7z1FjHOKDc0b8ObF8SpjKMs2DzY-l2LA5Ilu1FeW86s4Bga4/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="890" data-original-width="1600" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjixdThe9UcYwhZRcPvgzb7XkFDjlJkv4jmDTridwmbqwboOVaYMne0Pf9GcygS2_6AfuaLRsn1B2q6ps5w5nZsusE1miS7z1FjHOKDc0b8ObF8SpjKMs2DzY-l2LA5Ilu1FeW86s4Bga4/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-264.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8rMwFO1pAzWZ9kGFpZmAax9xcbpgwnV63Pat5PTcpBA4c32HxXyqx7T9yMonXxWSk1xHDzW3vC3JChu9YsR8rjTfpT584iC4Bnlp3YY-cRKn3aqQPHEzHLKvaE58KDTTCxSKEQtvz66I/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-271.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1018" data-original-width="1600" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8rMwFO1pAzWZ9kGFpZmAax9xcbpgwnV63Pat5PTcpBA4c32HxXyqx7T9yMonXxWSk1xHDzW3vC3JChu9YsR8rjTfpT584iC4Bnlp3YY-cRKn3aqQPHEzHLKvaE58KDTTCxSKEQtvz66I/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-271.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFLylWRLweEVrj4BVIFjgZlgO17sH-rXgIPfUHqTjtY1gI3mgAm95G4qGXbIU06kSUq-I_5frC5b5bIUYZp1w17_TJZjZPcvqcBp-mb6bxG9xZzTkmPDZjT8xqp2K0j3EjZmjD1SlyLE/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-283.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1187" data-original-width="1600" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFLylWRLweEVrj4BVIFjgZlgO17sH-rXgIPfUHqTjtY1gI3mgAm95G4qGXbIU06kSUq-I_5frC5b5bIUYZp1w17_TJZjZPcvqcBp-mb6bxG9xZzTkmPDZjT8xqp2K0j3EjZmjD1SlyLE/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-283.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_M7CzbaQ91t8Q-p1PyGx_tNXnfhVHJYcEQhkhuM2edLQIijHYq8B6DWPb5mfnzWzYiN-bL1gj7jWJtNsvDlz22i074A_M5gOSp_m2zyh1fFrKoWX-KC7bcWn_CvL06XDvinjfRThmDsE/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-285.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="1600" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_M7CzbaQ91t8Q-p1PyGx_tNXnfhVHJYcEQhkhuM2edLQIijHYq8B6DWPb5mfnzWzYiN-bL1gj7jWJtNsvDlz22i074A_M5gOSp_m2zyh1fFrKoWX-KC7bcWn_CvL06XDvinjfRThmDsE/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-285.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye Vietnam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTKHvZw1YALqsDdlLNL8jR9hSwvp2Cyu1_zSFwUTWzpklVnaJs9BAYW3ZRRwiLl_YHqcpMxRnS-cBbqKac7sKPCNOYP7Hv6L6fDIgSgxf6mmy6GOh1oDNlFUPbdCTPrZ4mjrMfYzFezI/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1600" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTKHvZw1YALqsDdlLNL8jR9hSwvp2Cyu1_zSFwUTWzpklVnaJs9BAYW3ZRRwiLl_YHqcpMxRnS-cBbqKac7sKPCNOYP7Hv6L6fDIgSgxf6mmy6GOh1oDNlFUPbdCTPrZ4mjrMfYzFezI/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-291.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
</div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-69317540250954319962020-04-06T08:58:00.001-05:002020-04-06T08:58:19.468-05:00Borneo<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
When I told friends I was going to Borneo they invariably had two questions:<br />
<br />
Where?<br />
<br />
Why?<br />
<br />
Where is part of the Malay Achipelago in Southeast Asia, Borneo is the third largest island in the world and is part of Indonesia.<br />
<br />
Why is for the wildlife. And the mountain, more to come on that.<br />
<br />
The Borneo rainforest is one of the oldest in the world and one of the largest of the fast-disappearing rainforests in Southeast Asia. Due to its island isolation many unique endemic species have evolved. The country is perhaps most famous for the endangered Bornean orangutan. Add in pygmy elephants, clouded leopards, fruit bats, monkeys, crocodiles and birds, birds, birds. A wildlife lover's (me) paradise. I really wanted to spot an orangutan but I tamped down my expectations. I knew that they are an endangered species and I figured we would have to trek deep into the jungle to hope to catch a fleeting glimpse of one. As for pygmy elephants, I crossed that off the list, so rare as to be almost impossible to see. But still I held out hope to see Borneo's big five: orangutan, pygmy elephant, crocodile, proboscis monkey and rhinocerus hornbill, a large bird with an eponymous beak.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFYRg9TNGu31mo03zVodV0n8naA9qs8McXiblWGODcoRw6EBSmqk1xyfqmT7lSm7QlCSFpiA4nrKq1EIyc3X9-W17p1mAFT3_qa3ZeLk3N77bsfMvSWLXaGOD6gipvFdf_n8K678ppmg/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPFYRg9TNGu31mo03zVodV0n8naA9qs8McXiblWGODcoRw6EBSmqk1xyfqmT7lSm7QlCSFpiA4nrKq1EIyc3X9-W17p1mAFT3_qa3ZeLk3N77bsfMvSWLXaGOD6gipvFdf_n8K678ppmg/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28ZGjcbebXOaaT81UXaXo8mdA05lvOn8pRtbdpBc6ednHCYEs_WN-QkmQft117o71LrWcZxFK4kBFY7H8RUgW2qmpVJrgomDk5WleAyNg6UzPXocaqgG4MNxUUrshNmC-Qe6Us0GoNfs/s1600/IMG_4925-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi28ZGjcbebXOaaT81UXaXo8mdA05lvOn8pRtbdpBc6ednHCYEs_WN-QkmQft117o71LrWcZxFK4kBFY7H8RUgW2qmpVJrgomDk5WleAyNg6UzPXocaqgG4MNxUUrshNmC-Qe6Us0GoNfs/s320/IMG_4925-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But before we embarked on our wildlife trek we made our way to Mt. Kinabalu. The mountain is the highest mountain in Malaysia and we wanted to bag it while we were in country. At 13,435 feet it is not tall but it is a strenuous climb over steep boulder fields and loose scree. the upper reaches, on summit day, are often over slick rock in uncertain weather. This is a non-technical climb so no specialized experience is needed, just strong legs, good lungs and perseverance. Only 185 permits are granted each day and it takes two days to summit. After an overnight at the lodge in Kinabalu National Park at the mountain base we awoke early and prepped for our climb. Day one is a slog from Timpohon Gate at 6,122 feet to Laban Rata guesthouse at 10,300 feet. We took seven hours to make it to the resthouse. Day two from the resthouse to summit starts at dawn and takes about four hours, allowing time to descend back to Timpohon Gate. The views from the mountain flanks are spectacular and we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset from the resthouse balcony.<br />
<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjPA6lZ9F6GsJuWx5oIoGPQ47WRApswfkhxXq1-e8d5rf9_TyJysSMDU0xEvllBLImpFFTyEYhA2SlDjBK2zfUHfW7YwSJ7xYbzWJ5Jn8J7V8RL947Moh9EfIz1BYHtWMQLicUSbj5AiQ/s1600/IMG_4976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjPA6lZ9F6GsJuWx5oIoGPQ47WRApswfkhxXq1-e8d5rf9_TyJysSMDU0xEvllBLImpFFTyEYhA2SlDjBK2zfUHfW7YwSJ7xYbzWJ5Jn8J7V8RL947Moh9EfIz1BYHtWMQLicUSbj5AiQ/s320/IMG_4976.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jungle cleared for palm oil plantation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And then onto the jungle. From Mt. Kinabalu we proceeded east toward Sandakan. Unfortunately, this part of the trip was depressing. We drive through dozens of miles of palm oil plantations and miles of jungle being cleared for palm oil plantations. The rainforest is rapidly being destroyed here for the sake of palm oil and the wildlife is being driven out with nowhere to go.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ykxir8vL2ogkjbAru-YOerLtYlsaD5FgQHLv0Yoa9H0qWzLCQHcQFiHxJ0bcMvPcmpiwLY9Zb6xcSm_d7zluBHJotbyF0VOe4TLVjHpzypgKv6nPYNzQLQrMi40Dc2BdgEpUJ-VjwYE/s1600/IMG_4985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ykxir8vL2ogkjbAru-YOerLtYlsaD5FgQHLv0Yoa9H0qWzLCQHcQFiHxJ0bcMvPcmpiwLY9Zb6xcSm_d7zluBHJotbyF0VOe4TLVjHpzypgKv6nPYNzQLQrMi40Dc2BdgEpUJ-VjwYE/s320/IMG_4985.jpg" width="239" /></a>We stopped on the way to explore Gomantong Cave and on the way in, not ten minutes into the jungle we hear a commotion on the canopy and look up to see a male orangutan swinging through the trees. Success, and we've barely started our trip! This huge cave, with a roof towering 300 feet overhead is famous as home to 275,000 free-tailed bats that emerge in the evening to feed. But its real claim to fame is the resident population of white swifts and their valuable edible nests, which are harvested for bird's nest soup. Locals climb to the roof of the caves, using only rattan ladders and ropes to collect the nests. But the cave also has a stultifying side: the thousands of bats and swifts generate copious amounts of excrement and the cave floor is meters thick with guano. Stinking, disgusting guano. The ammonia smell is overwhelming and the waste attracts thousands--and I mean THOUSANDS of roaches. The cave walls and floors seem to move with the scurrying of herds of large roaches.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipvcSevwFH1QHVfEAE2u0-abmkgNJJG-GSozeLpo0cygZieqthWkumowiyyEg9doiv3eAsQBqSPfW-noCejlF0SiLkoZFsKVwlV3DMkoi-wEGjXLWpISkTlkmjJ9B15rnHX8jpj5wEzCQ/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-69.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1600" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipvcSevwFH1QHVfEAE2u0-abmkgNJJG-GSozeLpo0cygZieqthWkumowiyyEg9doiv3eAsQBqSPfW-noCejlF0SiLkoZFsKVwlV3DMkoi-wEGjXLWpISkTlkmjJ9B15rnHX8jpj5wEzCQ/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-69.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEiTS1iy6Xr6cAKRNH7K7h5alqyMqUvOEv3LFfdBuYNB3KobchvruyEtZVm6F9KAVZjNVhQBwCPSTYuYdLQr6DCtMlHDUYy1aDT1S69k0ZypObA70ux-1mkk2f7nL_KDl7Y3Tj9QejnJI/s1600/IMG_4986.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEiTS1iy6Xr6cAKRNH7K7h5alqyMqUvOEv3LFfdBuYNB3KobchvruyEtZVm6F9KAVZjNVhQBwCPSTYuYdLQr6DCtMlHDUYy1aDT1S69k0ZypObA70ux-1mkk2f7nL_KDl7Y3Tj9QejnJI/s320/IMG_4986.MOV" width="180" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEI3uiQtw8dgU7ZD6QMFq-eJVoLjFtatlJXIBJ0wd7fZZjcx3pG2SexCS55R4PkOS8ijhRRIAdhid2JQv4wb3a1m-CHUWJYs8YSd1-DwTjJS5MAO3uG5tXlDqkhT6ORDfv60E1DSfBtw4/s1600/IMG_5194.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEI3uiQtw8dgU7ZD6QMFq-eJVoLjFtatlJXIBJ0wd7fZZjcx3pG2SexCS55R4PkOS8ijhRRIAdhid2JQv4wb3a1m-CHUWJYs8YSd1-DwTjJS5MAO3uG5tXlDqkhT6ORDfv60E1DSfBtw4/s200/IMG_5194.jpg" style="cursor: move;" unselectable="on" width="200" /></a>Back into the fresh air and onto Sandakan province and our destination in the jungle; Sukau Rainforest Lodge, a National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World. This eco-friendly lodge located on the banks of the Kinabantangan River, is accessible only by boat. It is isolated and beautiful. An open-air dining area on the river complements cozy rooms at the lodge. This lodge was used by Sir Richard Attenborough while filming a documentary on Borneo in 2011.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhys3k6wm8cA5hHoe5B58uhp7-YDd0h0vZzSuAbl-0khoDg1r1hQjoVujD6IFatjA0sY-jCZ0JYqGD45SNqA0Ijjp650ytDsYUmB4YSmYNZii40X5lBd1bd21EPrFmGqUCuJbH7qFXYHGE/s1600/Borneo+Vietnam-72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhys3k6wm8cA5hHoe5B58uhp7-YDd0h0vZzSuAbl-0khoDg1r1hQjoVujD6IFatjA0sY-jCZ0JYqGD45SNqA0Ijjp650ytDsYUmB4YSmYNZii40X5lBd1bd21EPrFmGqUCuJbH7qFXYHGE/s320/Borneo+Vietnam-72.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEnWUrde5Ov9hnSXJ5xNu9_UNiNUJjCeMVhfecLi6QY0efkEnHWAeu4_KSxUneII9t6Jiz9ytjq-LfPqHx6scrDfsNy2KYHvD3btpaYIxPZHlfIP5MC3xiMeu_it2K2UDIlY0VlScYLpc/s1600/IMG_4981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1443" data-original-width="1329" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEnWUrde5Ov9hnSXJ5xNu9_UNiNUJjCeMVhfecLi6QY0efkEnHWAeu4_KSxUneII9t6Jiz9ytjq-LfPqHx6scrDfsNy2KYHvD3btpaYIxPZHlfIP5MC3xiMeu_it2K2UDIlY0VlScYLpc/s320/IMG_4981.jpg" width="294" /></a></div>
The rest of our time at Sukau is spent taking daily boast trips into the jungle, exploring the inner reaches on the Kinabantangan River and tributaries. These all day excursions let us see a multitude of animals including more orangutans, proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaques, rhinocerus hornbills, pig-tailed macaques, crocodiles and a variety of bats, monkey and birds. Truly one of the most wildlife-rich places I've ever been. The jungle is thick and verdant and smells of rich loam and vegetation. Forgetting the dismal scenes of palm oil destruction, one can enjoy one of the last truly wild rainforests in the world.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGak1F9DeqJ7eOTaf2Hey1ROsgBz01XouBe2n6aZ5AEn4nb4W17k7XcecVZMH5Iez1I5TEHA82NHq32Kk08FM_dNih6b5T9OoDnAIE3hMVT2qhjeFaN7Th5ejRA8Yc2qY6DUvm_3RlVWA/s1600/Picture1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="890" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGak1F9DeqJ7eOTaf2Hey1ROsgBz01XouBe2n6aZ5AEn4nb4W17k7XcecVZMH5Iez1I5TEHA82NHq32Kk08FM_dNih6b5T9OoDnAIE3hMVT2qhjeFaN7Th5ejRA8Yc2qY6DUvm_3RlVWA/s320/Picture1.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkR4axHEcZdyonsA7KQhipu038w0DcMh3Qak4myISW86bV8i_9CU5wnYvY3R7z7I_l5BZmsG0Y2JFxt2LobKoIvnmIMfvMRhMIHUVCAT0lBQ6zeF0sFber4KZeYSIHF8eo34GuobNlg0/s1600/Picture2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkR4axHEcZdyonsA7KQhipu038w0DcMh3Qak4myISW86bV8i_9CU5wnYvY3R7z7I_l5BZmsG0Y2JFxt2LobKoIvnmIMfvMRhMIHUVCAT0lBQ6zeF0sFber4KZeYSIHF8eo34GuobNlg0/s320/Picture2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepd6PalFK5ThtSuCYz3MTQORVIMwnRsjBYw-zTIiC8LUlwkCUInWq_nCNlSwyBtp-5Zi1LXTQ8ekcb2zyJnzO7vt_VmXBuj6s-BIWRrXtXg77Ryixw3J72J3g7KNY6M5nK1zAd1pmORY/s1600/Picture3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepd6PalFK5ThtSuCYz3MTQORVIMwnRsjBYw-zTIiC8LUlwkCUInWq_nCNlSwyBtp-5Zi1LXTQ8ekcb2zyJnzO7vt_VmXBuj6s-BIWRrXtXg77Ryixw3J72J3g7KNY6M5nK1zAd1pmORY/s320/Picture3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIvmZ5XyalDpGElh1xn1ffcn31d4kOYpcrMtPI9_8y7B3Lv81X5ubPU8ttshH2XKAD6r5e95UGItN1F3XjXvBPukRKWwAKuc9t87uHqQTCiMJr2rniNTJjgCS00ueR-80WZz6E4rbCFg/s1600/Picture4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIvmZ5XyalDpGElh1xn1ffcn31d4kOYpcrMtPI9_8y7B3Lv81X5ubPU8ttshH2XKAD6r5e95UGItN1F3XjXvBPukRKWwAKuc9t87uHqQTCiMJr2rniNTJjgCS00ueR-80WZz6E4rbCFg/s320/Picture4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnY2P917uFDL72Krmiq2DUVUecvrvh6W953xr2IC8UUQ-gwPfP-jGfRwGOR_wecuQtT38ndsRwQr_Z1-ANOb74IKzdrBXw6z2jkU1a0S4x2irHjwQEhhukv6mlRi-AcxsbF3Slrz67jw/s1600/Picture5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnY2P917uFDL72Krmiq2DUVUecvrvh6W953xr2IC8UUQ-gwPfP-jGfRwGOR_wecuQtT38ndsRwQr_Z1-ANOb74IKzdrBXw6z2jkU1a0S4x2irHjwQEhhukv6mlRi-AcxsbF3Slrz67jw/s320/Picture5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2cdM9Gvul0oPIxO7OPxOF8fd807_fJQh_cWpsj5gaCl8qtFUkvVygMmBVXEsH_MLiLT2GoSOXxL_RpXuxlv6HkdkEVHRz_dueqD1DdqurVLKAL6Nc_3zti4MgebxYoVJ8FbmwTIglbk/s1600/Picture6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2cdM9Gvul0oPIxO7OPxOF8fd807_fJQh_cWpsj5gaCl8qtFUkvVygMmBVXEsH_MLiLT2GoSOXxL_RpXuxlv6HkdkEVHRz_dueqD1DdqurVLKAL6Nc_3zti4MgebxYoVJ8FbmwTIglbk/s320/Picture6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsAaRW_eLHGHLJOAGKHoNB9z6IF_UuTJ25OsAjVqsOvdcgmbX2-KvXG1FqzkgoCpbaS6wxN6d6hsvNwaMq7U5Tk2iL8ZfUhYpnL2Pz_3Uu0oOo3GrLKiDZIZeqItxggMgT1xWwkO2bTU/s1600/Picture7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsAaRW_eLHGHLJOAGKHoNB9z6IF_UuTJ25OsAjVqsOvdcgmbX2-KvXG1FqzkgoCpbaS6wxN6d6hsvNwaMq7U5Tk2iL8ZfUhYpnL2Pz_3Uu0oOo3GrLKiDZIZeqItxggMgT1xWwkO2bTU/s320/Picture7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSOh_LBuekIyMck4iyU_aVxrrfO76OcK9128DO2LttzUPf7DzVw4C16Rp4z4prUO0tbvSdT-PKXIwzS_FUaRzXimuVJ9hEoP0ATuHJXTHQy_oVdCZp4PY8M3Vz-OsdAHItdC8sSvKTt4/s1600/Picture8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSOh_LBuekIyMck4iyU_aVxrrfO76OcK9128DO2LttzUPf7DzVw4C16Rp4z4prUO0tbvSdT-PKXIwzS_FUaRzXimuVJ9hEoP0ATuHJXTHQy_oVdCZp4PY8M3Vz-OsdAHItdC8sSvKTt4/s320/Picture8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After an all-too-brief stay at Sukau we travel downriver to the city of Sandakan and stopped along the way to visit the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and the nearby Malaysian Sun Bear Rehabilitation Center. Both facilities are nonprofits that care for and rehab wild animals for their release back into the wild. Most of the animals are orphans resulting from poaching or jungle destruction. The facilities nurse the animals back to health and, if possible, the individual animals are returned to enjoy life in the wild. It was a somewhat sobering reminder of what is happening to the wildlife in Borneo.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7w1lrixp3v84zN2tVHt1KMOP1gAdhz4E_2DT6402OON0Ntj_K9C5VKs-lqZdEDIJo332Sc3O7YAVt8dP8yUm46Gmff5VQ09am5aiyfZ8LhWpDyp2w15t8MHYyz0UeYK0z3mxGRp2nV0/s1600/IMG_5249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7w1lrixp3v84zN2tVHt1KMOP1gAdhz4E_2DT6402OON0Ntj_K9C5VKs-lqZdEDIJo332Sc3O7YAVt8dP8yUm46Gmff5VQ09am5aiyfZ8LhWpDyp2w15t8MHYyz0UeYK0z3mxGRp2nV0/s320/IMG_5249.jpg" width="240" /></a>We decompressed in the energetic city of Sandarkan with a couple of city walkabouts and w visit to the teeming city market before catching a flight home.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFl7z8d3eTuVoiS0I1WxRUurJumyKAgaLTGPspfFOM1W0vJ5fLEl-3wf06OcqUSovTWngpjtgt166yLqD36_zWfgZA_tzhvw1CHCcFbCy38wo_VH1lyqxVDiEO13zF_cWvP9lW7vZvmM/s1600/IMG_5258-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOFl7z8d3eTuVoiS0I1WxRUurJumyKAgaLTGPspfFOM1W0vJ5fLEl-3wf06OcqUSovTWngpjtgt166yLqD36_zWfgZA_tzhvw1CHCcFbCy38wo_VH1lyqxVDiEO13zF_cWvP9lW7vZvmM/s320/IMG_5258-1.jpg" width="308" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJblulaQPUtVmkQ3gUTyGgedep0OkuNBLWm8O2M_0A98POMsujgLCw-nTz_N3bzQ0dx8zUyipslKFJjpfXTOyGXh1niHkELqkb192b0ijU3XjEqk28Rv23BAqaBKo5ubIb6BFU3K_TOk/s1600/IMG_5250-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqJblulaQPUtVmkQ3gUTyGgedep0OkuNBLWm8O2M_0A98POMsujgLCw-nTz_N3bzQ0dx8zUyipslKFJjpfXTOyGXh1niHkELqkb192b0ijU3XjEqk28Rv23BAqaBKo5ubIb6BFU3K_TOk/s320/IMG_5250-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-59081794790288919882020-03-25T13:31:00.003-05:002020-03-31T09:26:56.310-05:00Nepal: Khumbu Trek<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrTKuFXquop1bH6W-BbiYQAWvexEzsp-zFjn89fFTZP5g0V4Z-1Hn__EwcUpaxvTttSNr1xcnQuchSf_N56lKff46pEb-vvK_w42RNk7VhyphenhyphenVJmfeCdtsgw4Cl9IESs5uVzQRw0bC2K2cs/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_63e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrTKuFXquop1bH6W-BbiYQAWvexEzsp-zFjn89fFTZP5g0V4Z-1Hn__EwcUpaxvTttSNr1xcnQuchSf_N56lKff46pEb-vvK_w42RNk7VhyphenhyphenVJmfeCdtsgw4Cl9IESs5uVzQRw0bC2K2cs/s640/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_63e.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Everest and Lhotse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Hiking to Everest Base Camp seems to be the bucket list item for many but as we've discovered over the years, bucket list destinations are not always what we seek. We've been caught too many times is crowds, queues and tourist traps to still believe that the holy grail of Arches National Park or Stonehenge or the Isle of Capri is somewhere that we have to go. There are many just as spectacular sites that do not demand the cost of crowds and aggravation.<br />
<br />
So it was with Nepal. We decided early on that we wanted a solitary experience away from the madding crowd. We have followed this tactic in the past, notably with a decision to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro via the remote and low-travelled Rongai route which gave us seven days of almost solitary climbing.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWw8OtDd0qL5S_lEjDxwPwRW06VDLuHySHMWRKEIcOTztYdyMkU2isfHB2QCLQKhbvFjac-nqPtGpiBRMFc0pOCK98CREMlH-1c2VWaM3RNoRH46dFNHLq-4P5J9KfTqg8zLqnbBQ8poM/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5bd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWw8OtDd0qL5S_lEjDxwPwRW06VDLuHySHMWRKEIcOTztYdyMkU2isfHB2QCLQKhbvFjac-nqPtGpiBRMFc0pOCK98CREMlH-1c2VWaM3RNoRH46dFNHLq-4P5J9KfTqg8zLqnbBQ8poM/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5bd.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macaque monkey at Swayambunath temple in Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As we discovered during our trek, this was a fortuitous decision. That wasn't apparent when we landed in Kathmandu, a bustling, crowded city of traffic jams, pollution and dust and dirt everywhere. Kathmandu is both wonderful and terrible. The people are friendly, the food is exotically delicious, the sights and sounds are overwhelming. But not what we came for and after two days of acclimatization we are off to the jump off point for our trek, the village of Lukla.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjamfCo1IM8nrPdiOyIq9m8C_Ss5SDiWU0Nm9H_lSID1vmoWtSCFxOO9EblqLCZU-jtUm9C1qrkuLb1wXjsCJPhye66kAlBMNRd23kPT2P8R558szhJ6Yoxp0Jb_g7BABImmN8b9O3nUgg/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5c0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1182" data-original-width="665" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjamfCo1IM8nrPdiOyIq9m8C_Ss5SDiWU0Nm9H_lSID1vmoWtSCFxOO9EblqLCZU-jtUm9C1qrkuLb1wXjsCJPhye66kAlBMNRd23kPT2P8R558szhJ6Yoxp0Jb_g7BABImmN8b9O3nUgg/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5c0.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prayer wheels, walk on left, spin clockwise for good luck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtc4QR2y_SPuTEF3nvRlEs8GMKZQBvgLUqSzfPLp7JlFKe092AMgRctiAipgBvtvRhUjuQs-EPUpaw4lMpYuFfjC6QdrjrCiHnSil1Pzp6mJAVajr7yyANtXYhK3KW7eSBg_iHaogpVEA/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6e5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtc4QR2y_SPuTEF3nvRlEs8GMKZQBvgLUqSzfPLp7JlFKe092AMgRctiAipgBvtvRhUjuQs-EPUpaw4lMpYuFfjC6QdrjrCiHnSil1Pzp6mJAVajr7yyANtXYhK3KW7eSBg_iHaogpVEA/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6e5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Years Eve in Kathmandu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6k3cvE4nne5lqwz73f3ghZke9iAXhZOyfqMlmVJ9KP1mChyphenhyphenSC6AEFhQw_Ktq5q0OMHb22E3Oy-Gm_XbUF4Yr3S66khu-ou0h5E0NR61HMDPtwlGsAjBbUEVQHhvuRkNHmnBNj2c5HKA/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_59e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU6k3cvE4nne5lqwz73f3ghZke9iAXhZOyfqMlmVJ9KP1mChyphenhyphenSC6AEFhQw_Ktq5q0OMHb22E3Oy-Gm_XbUF4Yr3S66khu-ou0h5E0NR61HMDPtwlGsAjBbUEVQHhvuRkNHmnBNj2c5HKA/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_59e.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps up to Swayambunath temple.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4pZYMiNUijWRu8XKnss4EwDTnMKP724MIxlmH2wAl1Z5ugskBsdD3qgjN-b-czojExJr3kBb3pjzpYgfeTOzIlFugJOGjGG8b5VbSAFcwu6-MK21B1so35K1ZeEjWntiJFEg1Dh73ItQ/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5fb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4pZYMiNUijWRu8XKnss4EwDTnMKP724MIxlmH2wAl1Z5ugskBsdD3qgjN-b-czojExJr3kBb3pjzpYgfeTOzIlFugJOGjGG8b5VbSAFcwu6-MK21B1so35K1ZeEjWntiJFEg1Dh73ItQ/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5fb.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oxen on the trail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-uKKIR0encD6fu0xESebUP1ZrhhyJO9v4ko9g6a8pJokL7vDlBFPU-fYMELPtfBNpZDAACi1V4rhfaFCiewuy1m3uctCd2e-KVw9oiciVTvYiXO-xbtgSEoFoEc39OUkgfadK9kV1i4/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5ff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1182" data-original-width="665" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-uKKIR0encD6fu0xESebUP1ZrhhyJO9v4ko9g6a8pJokL7vDlBFPU-fYMELPtfBNpZDAACi1V4rhfaFCiewuy1m3uctCd2e-KVw9oiciVTvYiXO-xbtgSEoFoEc39OUkgfadK9kV1i4/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5ff.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NTzIym9KVPBlZOSdBg4aocdS9kmLaOqur-DWpe5gsKKqDiAijR_XVe-u5h2rI59ltrlWbHwrRhTx5rwqrH3S4TRIUGl-CIOOGGtBt1q8lMFK5kymMGBT6Kz47l9ITQWYQbKwU1W70wc/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NTzIym9KVPBlZOSdBg4aocdS9kmLaOqur-DWpe5gsKKqDiAijR_XVe-u5h2rI59ltrlWbHwrRhTx5rwqrH3S4TRIUGl-CIOOGGtBt1q8lMFK5kymMGBT6Kz47l9ITQWYQbKwU1W70wc/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6a2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddhist monks at Khumjung temple.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCBBQCnQqmLMNgcaqK3iKDsw_9d8TU82uPQZRK02WYiRqz-_9a5-94l4J-9wGbc8LTLG-V9l9h5u_j-xGOLbKhyLz1SfE_F_gINGfAbGwHdS2Hs0y0sn00VOTW2yIgv6MUgf1RDJiJ3Q/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6c6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdCBBQCnQqmLMNgcaqK3iKDsw_9d8TU82uPQZRK02WYiRqz-_9a5-94l4J-9wGbc8LTLG-V9l9h5u_j-xGOLbKhyLz1SfE_F_gINGfAbGwHdS2Hs0y0sn00VOTW2yIgv6MUgf1RDJiJ3Q/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6c6.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmeExgdYVPmwrE1-DXCw325-TlZuwWOAZyKZ5dy2CWLztIc7e5TP02W4AqvfQaMU21mkK6RnemCSh2pT3Ghtbb9g44xTMrARKbdGs9n0HsSqpVYx1z0iPcVOoUYtZJsKaT7thZ6xmcbM/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmeExgdYVPmwrE1-DXCw325-TlZuwWOAZyKZ5dy2CWLztIc7e5TP02W4AqvfQaMU21mkK6RnemCSh2pT3Ghtbb9g44xTMrARKbdGs9n0HsSqpVYx1z0iPcVOoUYtZJsKaT7thZ6xmcbM/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d0.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAJowzeRvAHa-M8dgXCg6s8thX99XLjCTrxTMMBEn1fSDKwN0TWYxxtGtGLFNqe0yp-xyhTCXmoy1Nxvn4Zny9DtIhrGNaEz8nW5z7hjiYh1J2LvaLDI74Jw86w_wSZ93oNIaxhK-4Rg/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrAJowzeRvAHa-M8dgXCg6s8thX99XLjCTrxTMMBEn1fSDKwN0TWYxxtGtGLFNqe0yp-xyhTCXmoy1Nxvn4Zny9DtIhrGNaEz8nW5z7hjiYh1J2LvaLDI74Jw86w_wSZ93oNIaxhK-4Rg/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHsJMizg2eV1na-xWki7eqACOvmBpvQDUg3aaQQLme05Ym4AgcUgMsenVF79zYowwIAwOM0LrBwWcVBcjvpjlyalb8VNvdcmD0foYoJdAyXUhV41d3EP1fJxX-nMed4uar2VinO84FxA/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_61d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHsJMizg2eV1na-xWki7eqACOvmBpvQDUg3aaQQLme05Ym4AgcUgMsenVF79zYowwIAwOM0LrBwWcVBcjvpjlyalb8VNvdcmD0foYoJdAyXUhV41d3EP1fJxX-nMed4uar2VinO84FxA/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_61d.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntNFP5AyWrBb8KnAAYnSWZDm7-zwnXaRpxLtDYz9-42pYip4-KU_merqqTLe5pNyzGe7WRsjiljxRmUwMoWZ4jvZakQF8mGeEtawkIEnK2ej1mcwJzcuzvVR_EwH5L8_cqlHpPLhUpis/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_66d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntNFP5AyWrBb8KnAAYnSWZDm7-zwnXaRpxLtDYz9-42pYip4-KU_merqqTLe5pNyzGe7WRsjiljxRmUwMoWZ4jvZakQF8mGeEtawkIEnK2ej1mcwJzcuzvVR_EwH5L8_cqlHpPLhUpis/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_66d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak train</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0a5cCr6AL_sniKLeJccB614QSFy0VkjvRVY-NgOyU6IeXR7icvTasaJ9-F6uXpRBk8wGErXDFw1y4ilDnWD7l822nyTWYOuRroEwUrSfyXo54XejDx4W0PzgkzslwFYEiRVjPPTbrTSI/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0a5cCr6AL_sniKLeJccB614QSFy0VkjvRVY-NgOyU6IeXR7icvTasaJ9-F6uXpRBk8wGErXDFw1y4ilDnWD7l822nyTWYOuRroEwUrSfyXo54XejDx4W0PzgkzslwFYEiRVjPPTbrTSI/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5a2.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
Lukla is a tiny village in the foothills of the Himalayas, a ninety minute plane ride from Kathmandu--if you can get a plane in. The notoriously unpredictable weather in the mountains means that about fifty percent of Kathmandu-to-Lukla flights are cancelled due to bad weather. Which is how we ended up stranded and waiting for clear weather in the Kathmandu airport until we could stand it no more and saw one day of our trek slipping away. We chartered two helicopters to fly us, our gear and guides into Lukla. Helicopters are a viable alternative if the weather is not too bad since they can maneuver below the cloud cover if it's not completely socked in. So we're in a bucking helicopter, skimming below the clouds with monstrous mountains looming in the windshield. Fingers crossed that the pilot sees it also before we splatter into its flank.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78KAoIWFdbNWEw8ZhPPYdGVPm5tXAPwsfVRqVdkLLIM8TCW4hQ5oqkIrk2bfq3G9EkJtS98mxTwdcQsLG2MQEKXqVAPrhJd5tLQF5_vp2x4syrS7Kyp_PiF4A5KufNwOCCdo6oEMAad4/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5e0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78KAoIWFdbNWEw8ZhPPYdGVPm5tXAPwsfVRqVdkLLIM8TCW4hQ5oqkIrk2bfq3G9EkJtS98mxTwdcQsLG2MQEKXqVAPrhJd5tLQF5_vp2x4syrS7Kyp_PiF4A5KufNwOCCdo6oEMAad4/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5e0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our ride into Lukla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Ak3hhYZ3dS1LenQeqFtZslndHSwXzdFoQ4SADyD4xtOuGx31U_L3RKH9cTxLYF74EdZkoqvGqwuVc1dvnbYZBJuxjNWzN7QSpBBURnc1gQePzeYe1hr5kge5GLPC63B6QfK0-rgs5Ik/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="1182" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Ak3hhYZ3dS1LenQeqFtZslndHSwXzdFoQ4SADyD4xtOuGx31U_L3RKH9cTxLYF74EdZkoqvGqwuVc1dvnbYZBJuxjNWzN7QSpBBURnc1gQePzeYe1hr5kge5GLPC63B6QfK0-rgs5Ik/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_6d7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lukla airport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv2ZhRbfnjcYELQ_krkj9Adj3QjMCMB8OeW_SMx9UsT-LIv19mN6temfrA-cVT0cpNGjOkvpkOEicE4lILTGDrRYoXY4S2d61aLFIqP4_Mpb00jitAKIXroVTJ_MHQVCJUbNuD2QonSjg/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv2ZhRbfnjcYELQ_krkj9Adj3QjMCMB8OeW_SMx9UsT-LIv19mN6temfrA-cVT0cpNGjOkvpkOEicE4lILTGDrRYoXY4S2d61aLFIqP4_Mpb00jitAKIXroVTJ_MHQVCJUbNuD2QonSjg/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67f.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Tenzing-Hillary airport in Lukla sits at 9334 feet, is only 1700 feet long and rises abruptly 1000 feet from the valley below to immediately in front of the landing strip. The back of the landing strip ends terminally at a vertical mountainside. It is the most dangerous airport in the world with regular and frequent fatal accidents. No go arounds here; the pilot gets it right the first time and doesn't get another shot at it. So it's a great relief to come out of the clouds, spot the landing strip and come into a safe if bumpy landing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8P0xLyumG0eAajhnbeodEEO1rHKyskJFwTrcK2X40V5MoSBaA5gyP2v4mE714mssood_W8ziOswsGxylef8ubpU_6mDAa0kBmGFyA2sU5dacGi8mJJamMzVR-KPygbC3xWwTnzeHL3g/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT8P0xLyumG0eAajhnbeodEEO1rHKyskJFwTrcK2X40V5MoSBaA5gyP2v4mE714mssood_W8ziOswsGxylef8ubpU_6mDAa0kBmGFyA2sU5dacGi8mJJamMzVR-KPygbC3xWwTnzeHL3g/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
After overnight in Lukla we start our Khumbu trek. So why the Khumbu trek? As I said, we opted out of the base camp trek after reading too many accounts of crowds and disappointing scenery. Khumbu is known for its relative isolation and remoteness and lack of trekkers. And spectacular scenery for the duration of the trek.<br />
<br />
We were not disappointed. Our first stop was the historical trading center of Namche Bazaar. This village sits at 11,000 feet and is still an active trading center for locals as well as the starting point for all treks onto Mt. Everest and the Himalayan highlands. It is a busy center of locals bartering and selling vegetables, meat, clothing and other essentials and trekkers prepping for their onward efforts in the mountains. We caught our first sight of Mt. Everest and Lhotse that day. It was an iconic sight with wisps of clouds blowing downwind from gales at the peak. Unforgettable.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07J8NOkiSRr7EIVSeCHBOYXYGWYJ_zpDHjxWVWgI71X5xc2Z66UXWsnyxLcvdQYQjiQT1gnS30tx-npfgI1d9RsekR9co2uZMgCzElXjnZHYGoiCEjXJpxk9i9Ik7hDZpIuFPi8ZRH10/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07J8NOkiSRr7EIVSeCHBOYXYGWYJ_zpDHjxWVWgI71X5xc2Z66UXWsnyxLcvdQYQjiQT1gnS30tx-npfgI1d9RsekR9co2uZMgCzElXjnZHYGoiCEjXJpxk9i9Ik7hDZpIuFPi8ZRH10/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_67b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddhist icon at Khumjung temple.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After another night of a acclimatization we pushed on into the Khumbu region. For the first half-day out of Namche Bazaar we share the trail with base camp trekkers and it was a long and heavily traveled route. We were never out of sight of other trekkers and occasionally met with backups at particularly awesome vistas. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvw0GEodLRx3qEqDSNkKC2hwJfchMojeBUINJIVnUgMhyphenhyphenQt7yLoos6s-TFk_AvTxSPTdMoKMMct1SX2gnXBkfZI96VsBl6HWCJ93G_KADYJpAMoiB1KNYGt3jpEIO5JM0uAzA0YV-3saM/s1600/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvw0GEodLRx3qEqDSNkKC2hwJfchMojeBUINJIVnUgMhyphenhyphenQt7yLoos6s-TFk_AvTxSPTdMoKMMct1SX2gnXBkfZI96VsBl6HWCJ93G_KADYJpAMoiB1KNYGt3jpEIO5JM0uAzA0YV-3saM/s320/UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_671.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teahouse in Khumjung</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So we were happy when we veered off to the west to begin our climb into the Khumbu region. Khumbu does not attract the huge numbers of trekkers that the base camp route does and for the next six days were saw less than a dozen trekkers. We were totally immersed in the local culture, interfacing with tea house owners, farmers and kids on their terms. We walked thru Thame, Khumjung, Jorsalle and many villages too small to merit a name. We passed porters, yaks, oxen, caught incredible views of towering mountains, slept in ice-cold tea houses, huddled around yak dung fired stoves, ate Dahl baht, entered sacred temples, met buddhist monks, saw a yeti (OK maybe not). <br />
<br />
And it seemed like we had the whole region almost to ourselves. After eight days of trekking we returned to Kathmandu, recuperated and left an incredible region behind to be discovered by other trekkers who have their own idea of a bucket list. Namaste.<br />
<br />
Thanks to George Lee for many of the photos!<br />
<br />
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-62414616283785922392020-03-25T12:42:00.001-05:002020-03-26T08:00:43.506-05:00Antarctica<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYnV6xkfH_2tXSizg1qut9mbnqpdLewGe_WGMQsxWIaOxoyeqTRKQpBZ2lVD14ebweS4Co5m9jYjQfgDr8tUowpzLEOhfCzaUMKggY4kxKqyAi3Vi5B9xNxqnCQPcMIEvOhoJ4FpoLec/s1600/Ship+and+penguins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNYnV6xkfH_2tXSizg1qut9mbnqpdLewGe_WGMQsxWIaOxoyeqTRKQpBZ2lVD14ebweS4Co5m9jYjQfgDr8tUowpzLEOhfCzaUMKggY4kxKqyAi3Vi5B9xNxqnCQPcMIEvOhoJ4FpoLec/s640/Ship+and+penguins.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Cold? For sure.<br />
Bleak? No way.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaSLyTjBC3SxCPRgB2Hm8tl9gNX6FNRpKjbvJDF7P1M6rbTonj0E_DSwj6RW-l107Q6kwFKPTBtO17E2eZoHxCvermO4IO6vBm45mrLYVY4plSGBllmdIbfb-nI4CsnkcxSpPT0Cze1Q/s1600/brown+base.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaSLyTjBC3SxCPRgB2Hm8tl9gNX6FNRpKjbvJDF7P1M6rbTonj0E_DSwj6RW-l107Q6kwFKPTBtO17E2eZoHxCvermO4IO6vBm45mrLYVY4plSGBllmdIbfb-nI4CsnkcxSpPT0Cze1Q/s320/brown+base.mp4" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Argentinian research station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So I was half-right on my assumptions about Antarctica. Yes, unrelentingly cold, windy, icy and with a bit of snow thrown in (believe it or not, snow is a rarity in Antarctica). But bleak is the not an adjective you use to describe the scenery. Glowing, illuminated, surreal, captivating--knock yourself out, the colors and terrain are entrancing. Glistening glaciers, sparkling icebergs and translucent blue waters are everywhere, dominated by the higher end of the color spectrum with any variation of the color blue a writer can conjure. Cerulean, azure, cobalt, sapphire, turquoise take your pick, they're all there in stunning brilliance. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPUzShZ2B3557yZkmCEcHuESwxykMVqKXXiGDG6_kDUwDIc7KMpmqJWENKFEQccRpP3KrFMOkY_Xq9e2BGq3R-l2cG0msKAWBzrvlo1Ahdq_CTNVeqxv78mEmR9uuDRMhDd24a2FhxWhs/s1600/untitled+%252814%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPUzShZ2B3557yZkmCEcHuESwxykMVqKXXiGDG6_kDUwDIc7KMpmqJWENKFEQccRpP3KrFMOkY_Xq9e2BGq3R-l2cG0msKAWBzrvlo1Ahdq_CTNVeqxv78mEmR9uuDRMhDd24a2FhxWhs/s1600/untitled+%252814%2529.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Antarctica as you would guess is unlike any other place on earth. It is the coldest, least inhabited, most inhospitable and driest continent. There are no permanent year-round residents other than a small number of scientists and support staff that stay over through the brutal winter. Wildlife is less varied in terms of species than any other continent but (at least for now) present in huge numbers. Penguin colonies of a half-million are present, seals are omnipresent always hunting penguins or crabs and other prey. Large pods of minke and humpback whales cruise the Southern Ocean, trolling for krill and plankton. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYP0RdbyXM205NtzXoF7dM7KNve0uR_K2mwPdEzoZ4rM5jdfKwAPxpGTmtC6Ef5fmAmleAW030fhEzS2HCaoIKVshYqrDX4Q8JUx-nN_8V9KKujELfuzWCiCHLYXDJFUSQJwUD8JvZ_4I/s1600/AW1A0120E.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYP0RdbyXM205NtzXoF7dM7KNve0uR_K2mwPdEzoZ4rM5jdfKwAPxpGTmtC6Ef5fmAmleAW030fhEzS2HCaoIKVshYqrDX4Q8JUx-nN_8V9KKujELfuzWCiCHLYXDJFUSQJwUD8JvZ_4I/s320/AW1A0120E.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElKzv0uOvLA1fo62gCNRqE2icO2iPkOkutK4f6GpmsjKjEMnwD7qk3W_4nGaVkLdqsL6cZNm9OclCdZ_HFC0YGfDqRW31kwdF7zJiXm-DSDOz-fPrvJZN6G4qPYWjY2XHOql2b2GFUiE/s1600/penguin+video.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElKzv0uOvLA1fo62gCNRqE2icO2iPkOkutK4f6GpmsjKjEMnwD7qk3W_4nGaVkLdqsL6cZNm9OclCdZ_HFC0YGfDqRW31kwdF7zJiXm-DSDOz-fPrvJZN6G4qPYWjY2XHOql2b2GFUiE/s320/penguin+video.mp4" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
There is a price of admission for all this wildlife and beauty and that is the Drake Passage. The most viable way to reach the continent is by ship out of Ushuaia, the southernmost town in the Americas. This Argentinian outpost, perched on the edge of the Beagle Channel of the Southern Ocean, is the jumping off point for almost all excursions to Antarctica. And it requires a transit across the Drake Passage, recognized by mariners as the roughest water in the world. Here the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean meet the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean and these two do not mix well. Imagine a battle royale between thermoclines, roiling the ocean into massive angry waves. Add in high winds generated by two clashing weather fronts that often produce winds to 90 knots or more and you have a crazy quilt sea of currents and waves that produces stomach-churning conditions. The two-day passage that we experienced produced 27 foot waves, 90 knot winds and <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkBeoG8aqHifI15k3G87bJtnOYk-HemI_ehqNdMKZxHlvT_swSsD06mzc46jjFNFNV3H2yMi_MEW8w4ZAMQ7j0cj7pzlQhFlQexytufRe5ClJZOslfzogOckKzyrUqmW4xQ7uK0BVm0AI/s1600/drakemap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="350" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkBeoG8aqHifI15k3G87bJtnOYk-HemI_ehqNdMKZxHlvT_swSsD06mzc46jjFNFNV3H2yMi_MEW8w4ZAMQ7j0cj7pzlQhFlQexytufRe5ClJZOslfzogOckKzyrUqmW4xQ7uK0BVm0AI/s320/drakemap.jpg" width="224" /></a></div>
enough bumping, dropping, pitching and yawing to reduce even the hardiest to handfuls of Dramamine and commode hugging. Not a trip for the fainthearted or seasick prone.<br />
<br />
But it was well worth the sacrifice. A week long trip of kayaking, zooming around in Zodiacs, photography, wildlife viewing, hiking and, yes, a polar plunge added up to an exceptional trip. And you haven't experienced anything until you've walked through an active penguin colony. Thousands of clumsily endearing penguins squawking and falling, stealing small stones from each other, crapping, vomiting and warding off marauding skuas trying to steal their eggs--it's as chaotic as it sounds. And the smell is overpowering. Decaying fish, excrement, vomit; delightful.<br />
<br />
We cruised from to a different island or land mass each day aboard the Ocean Adventurer, an ice-hardened 101-meter long ship that accommodates 128 passengers. The ship is comfortable if not luxurious with cozy cabins and a first class dining room with three delicious squares a day. Our daily routine was up at seven for breakfast followed by a short briefing and then a shore excursion; either Zodiac cruising, kayaking or a landing to explore a local penguin colony, scientific base or historical landmark. Back to the ship for lunch and then another afternoon excursion. Back to the ship again for dinner and an evening program--photography, geology, history, birding. Late to bed, early to rise, repeat.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmYYVeop6alr37nrkxuKoh91j9YGPhcLT-6vQ1RW08evFoUYEcUzNia4EnCATewuUvFQG3ducugmuYnZYWrDfqRuQ7J1DqCqIw05A-rlncxX1Hu1rpvPBWAyz_PusYfiW43IyAWkjdCE/s1600/heP99QuzSqWy87iRCaqVSQ_thumb_15303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgmYYVeop6alr37nrkxuKoh91j9YGPhcLT-6vQ1RW08evFoUYEcUzNia4EnCATewuUvFQG3ducugmuYnZYWrDfqRuQ7J1DqCqIw05A-rlncxX1Hu1rpvPBWAyz_PusYfiW43IyAWkjdCE/s320/heP99QuzSqWy87iRCaqVSQ_thumb_15303.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopNnx_7MHDYFf8sKCObOBz-QDNXF8hVEs0JQvEPYPypRNbroS0FXSfv_grSjnfE8u8XQ0D8FTwa-FSzzuLX7X5J9MxQhv7hlT2eYzKCNCPHcsX0Ue3yOxMix9NnomMxtqEx0OPigwNes/s1600/Argentina+and+Antarctica+-+55+of+127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopNnx_7MHDYFf8sKCObOBz-QDNXF8hVEs0JQvEPYPypRNbroS0FXSfv_grSjnfE8u8XQ0D8FTwa-FSzzuLX7X5J9MxQhv7hlT2eYzKCNCPHcsX0Ue3yOxMix9NnomMxtqEx0OPigwNes/s320/Argentina+and+Antarctica+-+55+of+127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPM8HDscwcfocbZBCBsIldNeKFyPnQ5WEyP77kKr5WHiKvISMqbRapcufxggHbl6B3lEWGK_zVnkLGbZ-NMvnll6EfjDwl-I9vwEmpxhuVZbAF6jJ5pIlP6ZC01aXwc3Zj1MtheBsxIg/s1600/penguin+colony+5.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOPM8HDscwcfocbZBCBsIldNeKFyPnQ5WEyP77kKr5WHiKvISMqbRapcufxggHbl6B3lEWGK_zVnkLGbZ-NMvnll6EfjDwl-I9vwEmpxhuVZbAF6jJ5pIlP6ZC01aXwc3Zj1MtheBsxIg/s320/penguin+colony+5.mp4" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1a9NFqVG_zYryt1X7FevXhJt-HXHfY7H8Xl-ZISKuLWiG1veLbt0l14DeLDwu2II1pkbYM5H8e3hgwuylSdpZ3x4mwa9xtrG64BfupE_dd44zlpGeJc4sUzfobCzIsAQvJaavcdLj0U/s1600/penguin+colony+2.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1a9NFqVG_zYryt1X7FevXhJt-HXHfY7H8Xl-ZISKuLWiG1veLbt0l14DeLDwu2II1pkbYM5H8e3hgwuylSdpZ3x4mwa9xtrG64BfupE_dd44zlpGeJc4sUzfobCzIsAQvJaavcdLj0U/s320/penguin+colony+2.mp4" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I didn't mention the birds. They were everywhere; skuas, Antarctic terns, sheathbills, petrels, albatross all in incredible numbers. They followed our ship everyday, gliding gently off the stern or aside the rails. Dusky dolphins and Peale's dolphins rode the bow wave, cavorting and surfing alongside.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcyWx0s_uDbd-vqji8X4Hr_Q6ildkt1uNc9GIzn2HHI_AhHrdetby4-nQ55luztKB1IQ8VlcGMcuRHBbOejkRgSv7SbLukBEjtwZq4nIMYVdidE3yUIXfEQnO42wGvpvfCt7tNih3E4I/s1600/u%252BnZuMt%252BRl%252BffkYXv8VUSw_thumb_15378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1020" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRcyWx0s_uDbd-vqji8X4Hr_Q6ildkt1uNc9GIzn2HHI_AhHrdetby4-nQ55luztKB1IQ8VlcGMcuRHBbOejkRgSv7SbLukBEjtwZq4nIMYVdidE3yUIXfEQnO42wGvpvfCt7tNih3E4I/s320/u%252BnZuMt%252BRl%252BffkYXv8VUSw_thumb_15378.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimjmyha7sjeq8f23DWNeleC565jC7E7-LZj9nKbhWEcmht3HeDOHjU8TxQ4kec5oIKYMjYTZKhixYUsmZjrRLC-aafOhNN4CZWKXSpEgeLkH7QadhPxWr88g0B53dy0XTWVTRzicwFjcI/s1600/untitled+%252810%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimjmyha7sjeq8f23DWNeleC565jC7E7-LZj9nKbhWEcmht3HeDOHjU8TxQ4kec5oIKYMjYTZKhixYUsmZjrRLC-aafOhNN4CZWKXSpEgeLkH7QadhPxWr88g0B53dy0XTWVTRzicwFjcI/s1600/untitled+%252810%2529.png" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9Z8oiWRXuX8IY02x-nCyhdx89-_nCw_zLzN5-VIhM1IX2SrsiqCJFdiHCqxu6YmMKnkyWZi6jlYvP6K7gjh2bYj5_8cv-JNcGQ6aBKBw9nkaGdDcy6nxd7OCchJb1rcQWBoy2wIg0Gk/s1600/untitled+%252813%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij9Z8oiWRXuX8IY02x-nCyhdx89-_nCw_zLzN5-VIhM1IX2SrsiqCJFdiHCqxu6YmMKnkyWZi6jlYvP6K7gjh2bYj5_8cv-JNcGQ6aBKBw9nkaGdDcy6nxd7OCchJb1rcQWBoy2wIg0Gk/s1600/untitled+%252813%2529.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Everything is so different, so strange that you feel totally disconnected from the rest of the world. There is no frame of reference, no saying this reminds me of... Because it doesn't remind you of anything, it's all too new, too unique. <br />
<br />
Too soon, it was time to go back to the world. Once again we pay the price of the Drake Passage but our Russian captain sees a storm passing through on radar and slow boats back across, following the storm in on relatively calm seas until we spy Cape Horn and the end of our voyage.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheplm86iBgmRJtgWJXddJB5ZT57NndTierWy9nA8oDjwDltcexwpzLS1tAb-p-vsdCfsm7kNRMF8T6zOZ5uCxnkT8XRaqB4LXGd0F78us5DrFJOVltOdaofcAz4cDFWD0Lj5hyphenhyphenQWeFqZc/s1600/untitled+%25283%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="178" data-original-width="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheplm86iBgmRJtgWJXddJB5ZT57NndTierWy9nA8oDjwDltcexwpzLS1tAb-p-vsdCfsm7kNRMF8T6zOZ5uCxnkT8XRaqB4LXGd0F78us5DrFJOVltOdaofcAz4cDFWD0Lj5hyphenhyphenQWeFqZc/s1600/untitled+%25283%2529.png" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2VL__SkTe_Xb-JCG90fSVgthSzpWE4R3zsIKkqzR6VLj4Hhb8V_anDklhooZ1sQ7CEDk655sG8Y0OiK8yeHYhxyApV3xY0iW9YALptkMspeIO9Uq3N6y_k8A441GEiPHodtrRtnTd_o/s1600/zodiac+in+snow.mp4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="854" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2VL__SkTe_Xb-JCG90fSVgthSzpWE4R3zsIKkqzR6VLj4Hhb8V_anDklhooZ1sQ7CEDk655sG8Y0OiK8yeHYhxyApV3xY0iW9YALptkMspeIO9Uq3N6y_k8A441GEiPHodtrRtnTd_o/s320/zodiac+in+snow.mp4" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
It was, by all accounts, perfect. It was my seventh continent and although each is unique and wonderful, Antarctica was my favorite.<br />
<br />
Thanks to George Lee for many photos!<br />
<br />
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-55363508667956912112017-10-31T18:23:00.000-05:002017-10-31T18:23:37.730-05:00Whale Sharks and Jungle Trekking in Belize<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauBsWj71rdSeCya0aaJAPBdaAkHnJjqz34U-FqU29B-4d95vVvlnW3R13DwwguShlDI5lKlPkhAzXYK8RBSidf8yVugsQUPiZtmab2Z6s2i4NjbM4VTlso-uIHxx5xE71NCLi0RyUezQ/s1600/whale+shark2+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauBsWj71rdSeCya0aaJAPBdaAkHnJjqz34U-FqU29B-4d95vVvlnW3R13DwwguShlDI5lKlPkhAzXYK8RBSidf8yVugsQUPiZtmab2Z6s2i4NjbM4VTlso-uIHxx5xE71NCLi0RyUezQ/s320/whale+shark2+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
OK, swimming with whale sharks was not the only reason we went to Belize. We wanted to see the Yucatan jungle, visit some Mayan ruins, do some birding, explore caves and canoe a couple of rivers. But the sharks were my primary goal.<br />
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRya3C-_8NyBE7esuIxIFxvUDCAdTCY8f4YivP-FOfsZBHrbyUZO6hiTBxae6lrzCkix3Xa9JgZ3q21bolG7QR_uNgYru5lWmvSHv9qKR8Z25Rtfz-NVVeXYdnNs05lkdBhOW6dNyVAM/s1600/DSCN4754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRya3C-_8NyBE7esuIxIFxvUDCAdTCY8f4YivP-FOfsZBHrbyUZO6hiTBxae6lrzCkix3Xa9JgZ3q21bolG7QR_uNgYru5lWmvSHv9qKR8Z25Rtfz-NVVeXYdnNs05lkdBhOW6dNyVAM/s320/DSCN4754.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
So we loaded up and headed to the Yucatan peninsula to begin our quest. We decided to combine time on the water with a trek through the Belizean jungle--a good decision. We hooked up with Adventure Life, an outfitter we have used in the past for treks with great results, and flew into Belize City where we caught a ride to Pook's Hill Lodge, deep in the western jungle near the capital city of Belmopan.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpW2x66YnJZxCyufihpfgFl30rSBXXC8mwNsd_1tNg-ls9N7ZM8qV4S2bqjvDrn7pfXD8hSSs01fH5OhW7XPGM5JoUC7qrCC508OVGb4QVEbBc8orjL_G0Vn99lsAHk1VjVv0170D0jI/s1600/DSCN4843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrpW2x66YnJZxCyufihpfgFl30rSBXXC8mwNsd_1tNg-ls9N7ZM8qV4S2bqjvDrn7pfXD8hSSs01fH5OhW7XPGM5JoUC7qrCC508OVGb4QVEbBc8orjL_G0Vn99lsAHk1VjVv0170D0jI/s320/DSCN4843.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
After a quick stop along the way at the Belize zoo, we arrived at Pook's Hill, our home for the next four days. Nestled deep in the isolated hills and surrounded by lush jungle, it was a charming and restful home base for our week's excursions. After setting in, we met the staff and Vicki, the gracious owner of Pook's Hill. As it turned out, after the first night, we were the only guests for the duration and had the attention of the staff entirely to ourselves.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUg2dyWlg84W7skaekasZp28p7pgCcEhOsrBbAicoWa1sN-IhVaFh3olz823IDmS_Uv7ijB8G9eBioWz_nfFQ25g48vvpLDMGiUMFplNLpvQTxzdcvVpC8uL4-N6qaM2-tET7iMN6KD90/s1600/DSCN4738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUg2dyWlg84W7skaekasZp28p7pgCcEhOsrBbAicoWa1sN-IhVaFh3olz823IDmS_Uv7ijB8G9eBioWz_nfFQ25g48vvpLDMGiUMFplNLpvQTxzdcvVpC8uL4-N6qaM2-tET7iMN6KD90/s320/DSCN4738.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwmkLdbDI7mQOcWR9FrB9MsNCNfJWLQV-bDiDfzc5C3moaF26-Hwp0NZOC6yL3qrT9HkMV9h0vP4gC8B4cyGCMg9EGm58O-7-VvxnP_dH8jS1RClEiyTd2gm7MDaV60SIoKuhCHlP6H0/s1600/DSCN4947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwmkLdbDI7mQOcWR9FrB9MsNCNfJWLQV-bDiDfzc5C3moaF26-Hwp0NZOC6yL3qrT9HkMV9h0vP4gC8B4cyGCMg9EGm58O-7-VvxnP_dH8jS1RClEiyTd2gm7MDaV60SIoKuhCHlP6H0/s320/DSCN4947.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjec5NN3_VtmMfLUWtqQNj1EK9J1MqTki6HGTS5uBBQ17iVWA6ErRgJtOr7rlCl3BbHGRtQjLvCIHyOfUxazggJHWoWiZfvcn7lxXTEKuZEUwu9brYuG6xVausFuHdQti5VKIBAJvHM-4U/s1600/DSCN4954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjec5NN3_VtmMfLUWtqQNj1EK9J1MqTki6HGTS5uBBQ17iVWA6ErRgJtOr7rlCl3BbHGRtQjLvCIHyOfUxazggJHWoWiZfvcn7lxXTEKuZEUwu9brYuG6xVausFuHdQti5VKIBAJvHM-4U/s320/DSCN4954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
And grand attention it was! Excellent food, knowledgeable guides and intact jungle trails at our beck and call. Local guides took us on daily hikes in the morning and evening, searching our local flora and fauna. I added 49 new birds species in our walks. We also took advantage of local adventures including a visit to the ancient Mayan ruins of Xunantunich, a canoe trip on the Rio Macal, a visit to a butterfly farm, a hike (swim) into Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave, a canoe trip on Barton Creek and a stop at Blue Hole National Park. Hard to say which one was our favorite but the ATM Cave trip was incredible--this is a wild cave tour, definitely not for the casual tourist. Swimming and squeezing through narrow passages, all in darkness with only headlamps for light. But the payoff is worth it, the cave is liberally littered with ancient artifacts, bowls, tools and human skeletons and skulls (it was a religious sacrificial site).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIM47MSNa6Zj893D8KEA3_dbMB3_Sh_hzN9vcq8tGgiJTepogpQYiwq-oHg9hiaH-tWAih6xwZR9uFphoU1G-d2PGr_8yBszIuv4Ib6_NQeSYdM-AvX6pOqrL5fwX3BIGj0CxWfKswhFQ/s1600/DSCN5205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIM47MSNa6Zj893D8KEA3_dbMB3_Sh_hzN9vcq8tGgiJTepogpQYiwq-oHg9hiaH-tWAih6xwZR9uFphoU1G-d2PGr_8yBszIuv4Ib6_NQeSYdM-AvX6pOqrL5fwX3BIGj0CxWfKswhFQ/s320/DSCN5205.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
After our week of jungle adventures we moved onto the beaches of Placencia, a small and relatively undeveloped village on a peninsula in the Gulf of Mexico. Robert's Lodge was our base for the remainder of the trip. Located directly on the Gulf, it was a pleasant dream land for our whale shark trek. </div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
We loaded up for our trip out to Gladden Spit and Silk Cayes Marine Reserve. I had intended to scuba dive but after talking with Linda at Pook's Hill she convinced me that snorkeling would be just as productive. I was glad I opted for snorkeling. Our dive outfit (Seahorse Dive Shop in Placencia) had snorkelers on one boat and divers on two others. As it turned out, we (snorkelers) saw and swam with three whale sharks. The two dive boats saw one and none respectively. It was a wonderful experience, the thrill of a lifetime to swim with such magnificent creatures. I will let the videos speak for themselves.</div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-4664880186471820902017-02-03T16:27:00.000-06:002017-02-03T16:27:03.134-06:00Adventures in Parasites (and Ants)
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Like a lot of people, I liked <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Revenant</i>, and the grizzly attacking Leonardo DiCaprio was one
of the most intense cinematic scenes ever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After seeing the movie, people who know I travel a lot to wild places
asked me if I’d ever had a dangerous wildlife encounter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve had sketchy encounters with wildlife so
I tell them about stumbling on a black bear sow and her two cubs, a face-to-face encounter with a moray eel in a sunken wreck in the
Bahamas, skirting a caribou bull in Alaska and being charged by an
angry bull elephant in the Serengeti. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
unknowingly parked directly under a leopard crouching on an overhanging acacia
tree limb in Tanzania. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve run across
more snakes than I care to remember, found a scorpion under my sleeping bag in
the Grand Canyon and tagged angry sharks in South Carolina</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But my worst encounters were with nemeses smaller and much
less menacing. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My most memorable experience (in many embarrassing ways) was
caused by a microscopic critter called giardia lamblia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ran into this one on a canoe trip in
Minnesota. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I picked up my little friend
by drinking contaminated water in the northern backcountry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My friendly giardia protozoa zeroed in on my
gastrointestinal track where he immediately found things to his liking and
proceeded to wreak havoc, his specialty being a nice little affliction called
giardasis. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I don’t need to explain here the symptoms of contaminated
protozoa in your small intestine, just suffice it to say that you don’t want to
be on an airplane when those symptoms hit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Which, of course, is precisely where I was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dominating an airline toilet when 150 other
passengers are aboard does not make one a popular travel mate but I didn’t
really care, I locked the door and spent the majority of the flight in rumbling
seclusion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Longest, most miserable
flight of my life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Followed by two more
weeks of bathroom sprints and churning stomach aches before antibiotics finally
kicked Mr. Giardia’s butt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lost five
pounds and my dignity.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NTQWrHKeMFyL9vUzTt7Za7B7CObgl2qweqyfww7REUpvDfMC3VLuO8Wa6sX3ixy7N-tiS_MNmGcJcvBpmJdQYuulQHqYtgtEA4vm31BPxhZ1HCHaF6BjoLqrttfyV-uKrh4fW2pBu3U/s1600/WBUllet+ant.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3NTQWrHKeMFyL9vUzTt7Za7B7CObgl2qweqyfww7REUpvDfMC3VLuO8Wa6sX3ixy7N-tiS_MNmGcJcvBpmJdQYuulQHqYtgtEA4vm31BPxhZ1HCHaF6BjoLqrttfyV-uKrh4fW2pBu3U/s320/WBUllet+ant.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Nemesis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The most painful encounter I had was with a one-inch insect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
was hiking in the central cordillera of Costa Rica and my guide had just told
me to watch for bullet ants—one-inch black ants with intimidating outsized
pincers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“They have a very painful
bite,” our guide said and he barely had those words out of his mouth when I
reached over a ledge and felt a searing pain in my middle finger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled my hand back and, yep, bullet ant
with both pincers embedded. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now you have probably been bitten by a fire ant and know the
unpleasantness of that pain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Trust me,
you don’t know pain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Schmidt Insect
Pain Scale Index (yes, there is such a thing), developed by Dr. Justin Schmidt,
ranks insects based on the severity of pain of their bite or sting, 1.0 through
4.0, increasingly more painful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fire
ants rank a lowly 1.0, bullets ants are alone at the top of the heap, the most
painful of any insect on the planet, an excruciating 4.0+.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Schmidt further provides incisive, and rather
humorous, descriptions of the various stings (a raving masochist apparently, he
actually allowed himself to personally experience the bite or sting of each of
the 150 ranked insects).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He describes a
fire ant as “like walking on carpet and getting a static electricity
shock.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A bullet ant is described as “walking
on hot charcoals with a 3-inch rusty nail in your heel.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was hurting—HURTING—for eight hours, the pain crawling up
my hand, my arm, into my chest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
thought I was having a heart attack. I broke out in sweat, I panted, I was
nauseous, I almost threw up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Searing
pain surged through my hand and arm, a severe debilitating pain that lasted for
more than four hours. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i>I wished I had encountered a lion or tiger
or bear instead of an ant. Our guide led us into a nearby village where the
local shaman offered a cure, which I declined after seeing the concoction he
wanted me to drink. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I gained a new-found
respect for bullet ants.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So there you go Leonardo, take your wimpy old grizzly
attack, ants and parasites are what I fear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-34174996626900090882016-09-09T16:05:00.000-05:002016-09-09T16:20:20.307-05:00Shark Tagging in South Carolina<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I was fortunate to spend time with two biologists with the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources capturing and tagging sharks. Here is the full story from <strong>South Carolina Wildlife</strong> Magazine.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM7C_9rCOZGb0AvuDl4dYoFFZNrYcx3fc-l0AEnCKDCVfdrCEQCJnQzHabCGOadjn_b-3eMA5fTaVy8docKyywymBStZPSaG8k_tmtkZ1HDnGm3pYDpgdV6vdRi14bVQCnuNWg5KEU_g/s1600/pic25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTM7C_9rCOZGb0AvuDl4dYoFFZNrYcx3fc-l0AEnCKDCVfdrCEQCJnQzHabCGOadjn_b-3eMA5fTaVy8docKyywymBStZPSaG8k_tmtkZ1HDnGm3pYDpgdV6vdRi14bVQCnuNWg5KEU_g/s1600/pic25.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKmbw5qvTlei2ZRRuS_1X0s7UuTi8tOUldXZ0a_wW_92RGvdWaH5NWR-j-G9EKKjdRQvETCoUJbFT8hXqJswAqndqT3MwcaKeDGCjVILvsYJ4WU6wF0Ja3CNrAmMGiE8Hp-cR5yf2Lbk/s1600/pic25-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKmbw5qvTlei2ZRRuS_1X0s7UuTi8tOUldXZ0a_wW_92RGvdWaH5NWR-j-G9EKKjdRQvETCoUJbFT8hXqJswAqndqT3MwcaKeDGCjVILvsYJ4WU6wF0Ja3CNrAmMGiE8Hp-cR5yf2Lbk/s1600/pic25-2.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-58674119891302170422016-07-17T14:26:00.001-05:002016-07-17T14:26:03.322-05:00Florida Panhandle Wildlife Excursion to St Marks NWR, St George Island and St Vincent NWR<br />
Took a spur-of-the-moment trip to the panhandle to visit some of our favorite wildlife areas. I called this one my "pilgrimage to the saints" since we went to St. George Island, St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge and St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge. Our primary goal was to venture out to St. Vincent NWR (an unoccupied NWR that can only be reached via boat) to catch a glimpse of the endangered red wolves there. The US Fish and Wildlife Service runs a breeding program there for the wolves, we hoped to see one of these rare canines in the wild.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7y9dymrhrCLK-PKtHyx6jzc0qrDOzPOUnoml-38toCBooYnTsJVp5wU09AcFygsppAZzeg5n6jOYjO7b03j3XH8rIU0VWxcGs4iOlneQzJJfCnozJHfXCZFxBY-qaZtP9a37nqB7vk_Y/s1600/12670237_10208464299554013_5552048808112738709_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7y9dymrhrCLK-PKtHyx6jzc0qrDOzPOUnoml-38toCBooYnTsJVp5wU09AcFygsppAZzeg5n6jOYjO7b03j3XH8rIU0VWxcGs4iOlneQzJJfCnozJHfXCZFxBY-qaZtP9a37nqB7vk_Y/s400/12670237_10208464299554013_5552048808112738709_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Ran into these three Canadians on one of the bayous. They are eight months into a kayak trek from Montreal to the Yucatan--with another eight months to go. Epic. Their trip blog is at <a href="http://defigofetch.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">defigofetch.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfultCtPd1plAWFkQoCvUVkmWXzr88-u-8AQtXE0uMvf5RikJCaPocSoDl5DMK1SVHVJEOudT18EYPixQea8bV0K3fYyoNagRJxxP59FirLQMDfJ4lXYyw1ESvjJ_wWuhp6BG5jcJ_CFM/s1600/12654216_10208464301554063_7793481213405445607_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfultCtPd1plAWFkQoCvUVkmWXzr88-u-8AQtXE0uMvf5RikJCaPocSoDl5DMK1SVHVJEOudT18EYPixQea8bV0K3fYyoNagRJxxP59FirLQMDfJ4lXYyw1ESvjJ_wWuhp6BG5jcJ_CFM/s400/12654216_10208464301554063_7793481213405445607_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous sunset near St. Marks Lighthouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
First stop; St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, always a favorite and a sure things for seeing great numbers and varieties of birds. We were not disappointed on this trip, spotted great numbers of waterfowl. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZjXCdj4J3KAdsFJ7Ra2fvy_hV1C9-1vNT_y1RuLOLjhp8BW0-Elqf2Wz_RFgvxJEemP7vskik9bkln98_gBSZLEF3mkN9yx1ZooV_JJvR5BxhLpUkAYU20Ssj9etTPvBtTcv8CFMVvM/s1600/12688338_10208464302874096_7082664525250794245_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZZjXCdj4J3KAdsFJ7Ra2fvy_hV1C9-1vNT_y1RuLOLjhp8BW0-Elqf2Wz_RFgvxJEemP7vskik9bkln98_gBSZLEF3mkN9yx1ZooV_JJvR5BxhLpUkAYU20Ssj9etTPvBtTcv8CFMVvM/s400/12688338_10208464302874096_7082664525250794245_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful shot of a Vermilion Flycatcher courtesy of photographer George Lee. He was flying around near a marshy area on the road into St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. Saw him three days in a row.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4cnAvcK17sO97xTupaV2QDrIM6tjYqUArmHh5xDLqVpy5rLq30C8FPGXV7MR9lj9LZroM4asChiXOWIVIqj1R525rA7o8d284HPgUZe6PJB2ru3iHD7Hdyk47kbi3QUV-n9jly-56ws/s1600/12715810_10208464298673991_5339503745230536761_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4cnAvcK17sO97xTupaV2QDrIM6tjYqUArmHh5xDLqVpy5rLq30C8FPGXV7MR9lj9LZroM4asChiXOWIVIqj1R525rA7o8d284HPgUZe6PJB2ru3iHD7Hdyk47kbi3QUV-n9jly-56ws/s400/12715810_10208464298673991_5339503745230536761_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Marks has an abundant white-tailed deer populations. These guys were as curious about us as we were about them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Unfortunately, despite extensive trekking through the interior of St Vincent, we did not see any red wolves, but we did see plenty of wolf tracks--encouraging evidence of their presence on the island.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQctgS4C5gyg5YwbvN1STU3MfOHe62PZpN7SOcH78L-ppBD1v_llbDIR7n-Zkqx8bsLGwHcBdzOunkdN_IRKAcP27o7NEMCt-T4cN6Gi6dnWQeJXnOeK9bqtAbrlZJmoNC7ku-pCQCpY/s1600/1044116_10208733597446292_7538730217769649377_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQctgS4C5gyg5YwbvN1STU3MfOHe62PZpN7SOcH78L-ppBD1v_llbDIR7n-Zkqx8bsLGwHcBdzOunkdN_IRKAcP27o7NEMCt-T4cN6Gi6dnWQeJXnOeK9bqtAbrlZJmoNC7ku-pCQCpY/s400/1044116_10208733597446292_7538730217769649377_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of gators out sunning on this late Spring day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0ClNZRBrw7mAzGXiOkrQGKD4xzVxMxecJnAfaPOtH_DDHLpH0ntScrc8pHIvyUt0b7rgUM6cvql1eAr57Jj69JBPmJazARRUsMOvfxGkBFOd0RSSmnI_L9V_F8dM-X9D2jJlmSV5b1s/s1600/10449934_10208733600086358_4019602319784391579_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt0ClNZRBrw7mAzGXiOkrQGKD4xzVxMxecJnAfaPOtH_DDHLpH0ntScrc8pHIvyUt0b7rgUM6cvql1eAr57Jj69JBPmJazARRUsMOvfxGkBFOd0RSSmnI_L9V_F8dM-X9D2jJlmSV5b1s/s320/10449934_10208733600086358_4019602319784391579_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and not eager to get off the trails, had to gingerly tiptoe around them!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGgPhHYTgORTOig_oWes6J3-7ZkceLEnZqMhjo80Gr_IboXpPoZuus8NeFIRfibJOSdy3g3YA10uMIiBWrhs0BusYNhOK91IWHM2yy79ClTKZ6QFh975t65J3enzl0pWxynJYODrbLsU/s1600/1044116_10208733601806401_1557008087124071572_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGgPhHYTgORTOig_oWes6J3-7ZkceLEnZqMhjo80Gr_IboXpPoZuus8NeFIRfibJOSdy3g3YA10uMIiBWrhs0BusYNhOK91IWHM2yy79ClTKZ6QFh975t65J3enzl0pWxynJYODrbLsU/s400/1044116_10208733601806401_1557008087124071572_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eastern Diamondback rattlesnake, also not eager to move.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09AXSdfKvO5Q8ACOO95_XQf2YOEi_NKYWlKReUBk1uwp1kEce4nECsNkbaxN-LxzLOAKBFBG-deV6giy-rE7QCmkDN0IYFM_xbtG6qgYxIqCvJisbNhMmtFmp3swhHyiFN8YKyQPbRF0/s1600/1914736_10208733601526394_4214553642555245247_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09AXSdfKvO5Q8ACOO95_XQf2YOEi_NKYWlKReUBk1uwp1kEce4nECsNkbaxN-LxzLOAKBFBG-deV6giy-rE7QCmkDN0IYFM_xbtG6qgYxIqCvJisbNhMmtFmp3swhHyiFN8YKyQPbRF0/s320/1914736_10208733601526394_4214553642555245247_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">....but he finally crawled away.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbTE_2crUZIPkCIAAiJpSv_5gXZ6DI-Kg9uc_UnvD_KcVK2p4S_0p3BpJlsChGOJ0Id5ix7Nya1mbiihoqCVLiRUKU3_pPrXm94F_7-V8LF-Fc4Z_lbAm99U2-p2wPuTlA4svctg0Z4U/s1600/1915287_10208733602206411_4781428099635686468_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijbTE_2crUZIPkCIAAiJpSv_5gXZ6DI-Kg9uc_UnvD_KcVK2p4S_0p3BpJlsChGOJ0Id5ix7Nya1mbiihoqCVLiRUKU3_pPrXm94F_7-V8LF-Fc4Z_lbAm99U2-p2wPuTlA4svctg0Z4U/s400/1915287_10208733602206411_4781428099635686468_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great egret posing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4sSfLHxAM6tY4s5zSh776MWk4cBi5ObmHseL_AuicUrX6bGbNVX6THo6Wf7yuiz0npOixQPdDmDdozI2O81jQUaGC5XhmJoannXJAYGh639H6GZKoP__JCcXIYcmcsQiWhnOnuC3160/s1600/12687908_10208467156985447_7346090966537134640_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt4sSfLHxAM6tY4s5zSh776MWk4cBi5ObmHseL_AuicUrX6bGbNVX6THo6Wf7yuiz0npOixQPdDmDdozI2O81jQUaGC5XhmJoannXJAYGh639H6GZKoP__JCcXIYcmcsQiWhnOnuC3160/s400/12687908_10208467156985447_7346090966537134640_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately, never spied the endangered red wolves, but saw plenty of wolf tracks like these. Looks like a return trip is needed!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-16162482973502088872015-12-01T14:17:00.003-06:002015-12-03T12:34:06.938-06:00Normandy and the D-Day Beaches<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyH6ssbw-BRJ82e8PYG77wectLDoejviDyeBp1Etdxc21OqFYdfSDOs3zP1RhnLajrrylHpQsjXImWNI7SH441p1bEMzpQjAsen_kIEVCf1Fk6G9ePF_waA89850AyUtxk6_qgrZZR1iE/s1600/IMG_5995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyH6ssbw-BRJ82e8PYG77wectLDoejviDyeBp1Etdxc21OqFYdfSDOs3zP1RhnLajrrylHpQsjXImWNI7SH441p1bEMzpQjAsen_kIEVCf1Fk6G9ePF_waA89850AyUtxk6_qgrZZR1iE/s400/IMG_5995.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Omaha Beach today</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I've always been a huge WW2 buff and always wanted to visit the D-Day beaches. I have visited a number of other WW1 and WW2 battlefields and sites including Bastogne, Verdun, Okinawa, Berchtesgaden and a number of Allied cemeteries in Europe but Normandy and the beaches of D-Day have always been my Holy Grail.<br />
<br />
So when we decided to make the trip we naturally chose to go during the first week of June to coincide with the annual anniversary celebrations. I highly recommend going during that week, the commemorative events and activities that occur each year add to the flavor of the visit.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44DcSKKULGlTRMa3eSMMtP06RNfYs6f1Ltx_SDoex6zhROjlmW2Zxg8yqxT2aoGjfNDrH3WO0yKwSh5ET2TSM4fX9lrrktrwkpJaumZMMSgHDsp8PTowcil4Fw1TSds98B4t_07VLQzA/s1600/IMG_2611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44DcSKKULGlTRMa3eSMMtP06RNfYs6f1Ltx_SDoex6zhROjlmW2Zxg8yqxT2aoGjfNDrH3WO0yKwSh5ET2TSM4fX9lrrktrwkpJaumZMMSgHDsp8PTowcil4Fw1TSds98B4t_07VLQzA/s320/IMG_2611.JPG" width="320" /></a>We started our adventure with a drive through the Normandy countryside and it isn't hard to imagine what Allied and German soldiers saw as they fought here. It hasn't changed much; narrow country roads, century old houses, bocage along field and country lanes and stone walls give the area a distinctly mid-20th century feel. It's easy to let your mind trick you into thinking it is 1944.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Stone churches and old houses that saw battles still stand tall.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu1AAgJDJhOUPypgyX-9x-ItHckelejY-M7V2FjdwVC7aubY8PD4U2IoXYFX5e1RCYxper2aE7TOsYq7t1cVC7qzHSoAAqR9VUMhQtCmVZHj0lukWbdwHuffrKF0MI4mcHIGmPRrsgPxw/s1600/IMG_2618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu1AAgJDJhOUPypgyX-9x-ItHckelejY-M7V2FjdwVC7aubY8PD4U2IoXYFX5e1RCYxper2aE7TOsYq7t1cVC7qzHSoAAqR9VUMhQtCmVZHj0lukWbdwHuffrKF0MI4mcHIGmPRrsgPxw/s320/IMG_2618.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWsdYd79y8EcCKNB8s8S8GR-j4vNb7bO6D0NV5EZiVi4GYKHxWiwpOjOAa2WphxYt80G15uJjVHtMaaqXE9614iBbeLMeHMSx85GYzxA5HyvRkExA1fPkIdgpraHCIvfFnlcDleBQlyBg/s1600/IMG_2601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWsdYd79y8EcCKNB8s8S8GR-j4vNb7bO6D0NV5EZiVi4GYKHxWiwpOjOAa2WphxYt80G15uJjVHtMaaqXE9614iBbeLMeHMSx85GYzxA5HyvRkExA1fPkIdgpraHCIvfFnlcDleBQlyBg/s320/IMG_2601.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghM-pDrEDOrgsSCyWOt7EAwDod9PCHYUwqe0PPE2QqWwgEax_LN1sMLz39JqzasZdeHgrCX1LWD-P962vmit9Yv3DdC2NwiJ13ajuYbHD5LwdX686m9SkJKIgNLJDhLrbhKxdE-4G-Z3k/s1600/IMG_2620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghM-pDrEDOrgsSCyWOt7EAwDod9PCHYUwqe0PPE2QqWwgEax_LN1sMLz39JqzasZdeHgrCX1LWD-P962vmit9Yv3DdC2NwiJ13ajuYbHD5LwdX686m9SkJKIgNLJDhLrbhKxdE-4G-Z3k/s320/IMG_2620.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many Calvados producers along the Route de Cidre </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Of course, no trip to Normandy would be complete without stopping for a taste of Calvados, apple brandy unique to the area.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-x_NvnV630mpl6ueacrLnRlV34OmNFg-AsbUzeG5Mr-5dKE2CP4hNu6LX_g6xOvEdy5463c1miWGWduizzNP5UFcBQRskt3pMDgwfpQdfOEIcjyKQoY1H0rk0HJ0pXs1qp330CrO8YI/s1600/IMG_2622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-x_NvnV630mpl6ueacrLnRlV34OmNFg-AsbUzeG5Mr-5dKE2CP4hNu6LX_g6xOvEdy5463c1miWGWduizzNP5UFcBQRskt3pMDgwfpQdfOEIcjyKQoY1H0rk0HJ0pXs1qp330CrO8YI/s320/IMG_2622.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25MUGrpjqfAnpQbdUwEvdgM1tIAKL5ZonnIg9YaZjw7j1uX_9bsVNInALlPD92l4Zy5epRkGXfFseZ8RJSbHTZtbz3XCbwWb_IjeJ00oUvTavFixt2hDwD3G7RUN_aFp4mz8kqpd-Nrc/s1600/IMG_2623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi25MUGrpjqfAnpQbdUwEvdgM1tIAKL5ZonnIg9YaZjw7j1uX_9bsVNInALlPD92l4Zy5epRkGXfFseZ8RJSbHTZtbz3XCbwWb_IjeJ00oUvTavFixt2hDwD3G7RUN_aFp4mz8kqpd-Nrc/s320/IMG_2623.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoCkOgW4uYIckMBm5KCtQhNxsEKMw8Zz0cOAnnhT3gqAyOiI6vsNyaBobGVvs0HF8uiPmt-6eQyBdbqS-smnnBT2hReKiOQSXQnkqeDVzL73U_7KtYJuEc2pLqIpFrpIvGrHZtoN7uPg/s1600/IMG_2632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoCkOgW4uYIckMBm5KCtQhNxsEKMw8Zz0cOAnnhT3gqAyOiI6vsNyaBobGVvs0HF8uiPmt-6eQyBdbqS-smnnBT2hReKiOQSXQnkqeDVzL73U_7KtYJuEc2pLqIpFrpIvGrHZtoN7uPg/s320/IMG_2632.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route de Cidre, the "Cider Route". At least 20 Calvados producers on this road.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRi2Myil8fOlbxXU92hsi_fkBM5XeSypph__5OBjWXQGJrKBWa-fAysUfmuPFwp1RWgymGNpJFn89fuHAAOYhp6gXzRF8M-Z9zY_Y6dF-yyX_VGehNScw-iadexD3Q-dZDthrl3p3gvR0/s1600/IMG_2636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRi2Myil8fOlbxXU92hsi_fkBM5XeSypph__5OBjWXQGJrKBWa-fAysUfmuPFwp1RWgymGNpJFn89fuHAAOYhp6gXzRF8M-Z9zY_Y6dF-yyX_VGehNScw-iadexD3Q-dZDthrl3p3gvR0/s320/IMG_2636.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
But enough of that, on to the D-Day beaches and battlefields, the real purpose of the trip. Along the way we came upon this WW2 cemetery, unique in that Allied and German cemeteries sit side-by-side.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Lx62OrWLbWmSx1hndhRs_eiYMBjt3HiG5X9jMvVVk14ujEGSmmXLXIZv5ZgU-2fToI7yco0Sa0pc1I2TKlsOeyKzY71nOjRe1fu_hdtGDvM6A2M0ZdqpSvxUNtvLtW_kIIcCTF78jco/s1600/IMG_2568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Lx62OrWLbWmSx1hndhRs_eiYMBjt3HiG5X9jMvVVk14ujEGSmmXLXIZv5ZgU-2fToI7yco0Sa0pc1I2TKlsOeyKzY71nOjRe1fu_hdtGDvM6A2M0ZdqpSvxUNtvLtW_kIIcCTF78jco/s320/IMG_2568.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The German cemetery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfvanJN3iJADBFu02KsljcxmcubjK9ehSfvsNarUzHOhH7oLMiRYCnBQfER5hdF6yEYH0nmqxKdSKxglQloY_-g9L3fGhv0x00nOLy48UheB4XJ3If7FULlXdhoBFLI298cEogW_UTeY/s1600/IMG_2571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYfvanJN3iJADBFu02KsljcxmcubjK9ehSfvsNarUzHOhH7oLMiRYCnBQfER5hdF6yEYH0nmqxKdSKxglQloY_-g9L3fGhv0x00nOLy48UheB4XJ3If7FULlXdhoBFLI298cEogW_UTeY/s320/IMG_2571.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">German soldiers were buried two to a headstone. This one has the name of one, the other simply identified as "Ein Deutscher Soldat"--A German Soldier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHzaKy5_Ho2lpCi06tI-8fT9ub6pJMUFDwd2tu5W4acBdGVq3j29YYIhzphFSEXXq2_OQ2edayk3xMUZR91SD2Rygrm6dFOra012zvE_UGpE8SZvW4nUnuFUa5z3bLqXPJu8My78lllL8/s1600/IMG_2576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHzaKy5_Ho2lpCi06tI-8fT9ub6pJMUFDwd2tu5W4acBdGVq3j29YYIhzphFSEXXq2_OQ2edayk3xMUZR91SD2Rygrm6dFOra012zvE_UGpE8SZvW4nUnuFUa5z3bLqXPJu8My78lllL8/s320/IMG_2576.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Allied cemetery. French, British and American soldiers rest here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWHB9iRTZN3yqcSLDqr54WxXjZhBrq-H_RfcRwFnuBhjIlHfCJJYDr3cApAVkkkCGuJ81bOg4z_zsVfZipHDCXeBzt6yoQIH-aQROO6r8RVX2BFooh_jGk6U7vkDb-5-O21zTGPwbkK8U/s1600/IMG_2580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWHB9iRTZN3yqcSLDqr54WxXjZhBrq-H_RfcRwFnuBhjIlHfCJJYDr3cApAVkkkCGuJ81bOg4z_zsVfZipHDCXeBzt6yoQIH-aQROO6r8RVX2BFooh_jGk6U7vkDb-5-O21zTGPwbkK8U/s320/IMG_2580.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfUwwK-GsZBROWFojBD8fFFMrBLdev72MEmO_onxsXfl4jdANsHQKjAjZDmDBCuQAuM99YYF3FYWKZkGA3VviEHTfTsN_WD1bvTntdmaXr65ugXtYBnIo3dElfe1-orpPb0LFOBAMLtI/s1600/IMG_2592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIfUwwK-GsZBROWFojBD8fFFMrBLdev72MEmO_onxsXfl4jdANsHQKjAjZDmDBCuQAuM99YYF3FYWKZkGA3VviEHTfTsN_WD1bvTntdmaXr65ugXtYBnIo3dElfe1-orpPb0LFOBAMLtI/s320/IMG_2592.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
After a brief stop we headed on to Omaha Beach, one of two American landing beaches and the one that saw the most action on D-Day.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9EfE9kxTZG9IiTQtpjGw5-P3YvgBx9zhzbCI-QCv1CYVi4x82IAt80DZbEturqlGL_1W4Kv0imB-ou0BjWrCbUCbSa57dZaw1DQE7-rmB565wZ1tUK4sdom0hGvHgjzxub5tEEk-1jQ/s1600/IMG_2662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy9EfE9kxTZG9IiTQtpjGw5-P3YvgBx9zhzbCI-QCv1CYVi4x82IAt80DZbEturqlGL_1W4Kv0imB-ou0BjWrCbUCbSa57dZaw1DQE7-rmB565wZ1tUK4sdom0hGvHgjzxub5tEEk-1jQ/s320/IMG_2662.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are still remnants of the battles. These were originally placed on the beaches to prevent landing craft from beaching.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJP-iXORwnnG6k2JMq8cAANU5I0xCcacm-xJ7U0SuJNPgTMzkTZX3s3qKQIVYm_neXadwVLiXxpI1tYK3KwgvHYgGv7qydq2MlE4yCt6EyOqca8Uy_gF4ag7HdaT1uFNRL9sQUEmCoR4g/s1600/IMG_2664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJP-iXORwnnG6k2JMq8cAANU5I0xCcacm-xJ7U0SuJNPgTMzkTZX3s3qKQIVYm_neXadwVLiXxpI1tYK3KwgvHYgGv7qydq2MlE4yCt6EyOqca8Uy_gF4ag7HdaT1uFNRL9sQUEmCoR4g/s320/IMG_2664.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RUoCzYNzFzTP7Obj3BVbYVAex6ZCKWjqG-IlVOfEUVhtWw9cImEy1_pGc6ku0fpNZljmow5_m9DhVNamiTacCn4mmL0Q0YXncr02mU3RUvj_Bp4Zv3DuY7DHMawfqE0cacRvbgxRP40/s1600/IMG_2685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RUoCzYNzFzTP7Obj3BVbYVAex6ZCKWjqG-IlVOfEUVhtWw9cImEy1_pGc6ku0fpNZljmow5_m9DhVNamiTacCn4mmL0Q0YXncr02mU3RUvj_Bp4Zv3DuY7DHMawfqE0cacRvbgxRP40/s320/IMG_2685.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This house is just up the beach and survived heavy bombing and swirling battles.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjox-4rJ8sA3hijRgCZ5_0QCDUUxN8URJj03y-I5HbWRgkFQyff-VsUgcoyY7I1YY9Saipky3TuU8IN_ySPFCKxSdmRkmTqLq0tUInY5rLD7PM0nYH6tM36Yn9OzarVdeJcYvhs39yTyg4/s1600/IMG_2666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjox-4rJ8sA3hijRgCZ5_0QCDUUxN8URJj03y-I5HbWRgkFQyff-VsUgcoyY7I1YY9Saipky3TuU8IN_ySPFCKxSdmRkmTqLq0tUInY5rLD7PM0nYH6tM36Yn9OzarVdeJcYvhs39yTyg4/s320/IMG_2666.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXz4sjH0Aqs674q95f84-LRbdK49XEXqRraXak2d-mXkSYftJwum_rojTFyvS_kgjAnCNPMuVscTBFsiL8wDgAKkmgKa3XfIYhAomgD6U6iSxY_a_OdhxEyzHCwiSDKI8ezTirTjJYn2Q/s1600/IMG_2667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXz4sjH0Aqs674q95f84-LRbdK49XEXqRraXak2d-mXkSYftJwum_rojTFyvS_kgjAnCNPMuVscTBFsiL8wDgAKkmgKa3XfIYhAomgD6U6iSxY_a_OdhxEyzHCwiSDKI8ezTirTjJYn2Q/s320/IMG_2667.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Omaha Beach to the bluff above. The remains of a German bunker still stand guard. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj-hlPooCHy6RrtsK7V6kzmc_pWQWe0zDEhCX2TqQkl1rzzVPWvMNgMuzlgv-PDgdNol-SRdnJiHNxFdidZhZAhaVA79irYSPSulRpHRusZAeal9ZxhQI-Asf5aps6FGwQAM3Mg2OV1E/s1600/IMG_2650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtj-hlPooCHy6RrtsK7V6kzmc_pWQWe0zDEhCX2TqQkl1rzzVPWvMNgMuzlgv-PDgdNol-SRdnJiHNxFdidZhZAhaVA79irYSPSulRpHRusZAeal9ZxhQI-Asf5aps6FGwQAM3Mg2OV1E/s320/IMG_2650.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3q3tjxXx3Em6RdO-K0dMTTMoziuFlhAzVdnuQtOm64g5dRX-vImkPLf2gPgT6XQtnPd2-GkH3WFHNTIPSuU4gqaM4mKCpu8SP_GzH0v7hSjZ0ScpSvlNEtAE9QqN_ssbnudscYQvgiHw/s1600/IMG_2652.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3q3tjxXx3Em6RdO-K0dMTTMoziuFlhAzVdnuQtOm64g5dRX-vImkPLf2gPgT6XQtnPd2-GkH3WFHNTIPSuU4gqaM4mKCpu8SP_GzH0v7hSjZ0ScpSvlNEtAE9QqN_ssbnudscYQvgiHw/s320/IMG_2652.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RuonOUcot_VBkN44aNSJ2vNOljdYUce7Cqbw7bAhk5avvdfz-0cMM_E7_ZlwwhPEeDFNJBzheUEGFF_NLjJtS_EUM94L8hSSVMkpx7Jvp3LctFXrJ7mIj40ErtYS3GoNuCXl6VGwZzU/s1600/IMG_2654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RuonOUcot_VBkN44aNSJ2vNOljdYUce7Cqbw7bAhk5avvdfz-0cMM_E7_ZlwwhPEeDFNJBzheUEGFF_NLjJtS_EUM94L8hSSVMkpx7Jvp3LctFXrJ7mIj40ErtYS3GoNuCXl6VGwZzU/s320/IMG_2654.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you're a WW2 buff, the names of the towns are familiar. Lot of action occurred here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCFHc60lRssjy88ihuCqG0SaSakuPvEYjNOJWao_DnlMMvnSJVmVMizi9Va-kITZqfssR0p9FywOl0cLuzNQeG1ChZSyqrBbnagDYDcjpIHOPC3pjoijd4htDOy2NRTLVASQkQUDRDPY/s1600/IMG_2655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCFHc60lRssjy88ihuCqG0SaSakuPvEYjNOJWao_DnlMMvnSJVmVMizi9Va-kITZqfssR0p9FywOl0cLuzNQeG1ChZSyqrBbnagDYDcjpIHOPC3pjoijd4htDOy2NRTLVASQkQUDRDPY/s320/IMG_2655.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A battle scarred German emplacement. Notice the damage from artillery hits.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
There were reenactments and other events taking place during anniversary week. We ran into reenactors and got to talk with them.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMmAqr_OFi_-SRZPQHn7TXeb7lcLvHvpl3uGGKvnFbC2-K58YNb1qPwBYZAtM46RvJ4S3F5ncOdrbd4QXrdU0tsKXidaIUNynqmnAhzcZSLnL1OmVJMvUPLOlfI_kBu9S13wJazTSGmk/s1600/IMG_2700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgMmAqr_OFi_-SRZPQHn7TXeb7lcLvHvpl3uGGKvnFbC2-K58YNb1qPwBYZAtM46RvJ4S3F5ncOdrbd4QXrdU0tsKXidaIUNynqmnAhzcZSLnL1OmVJMvUPLOlfI_kBu9S13wJazTSGmk/s320/IMG_2700.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UnOLx7Q68VTwSbFLHsjchsfzF9RPI8wHMSyhXVUzb0bZd9liG7uewv43_faKx8DjYsAHpB0eUKdb_CGsc8ZLIguhPJLHaBASmaea_2PTOlYNMGaPRo5969E79pbewYQF-pjk0SMFrrw/s1600/IMG_2770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8UnOLx7Q68VTwSbFLHsjchsfzF9RPI8wHMSyhXVUzb0bZd9liG7uewv43_faKx8DjYsAHpB0eUKdb_CGsc8ZLIguhPJLHaBASmaea_2PTOlYNMGaPRo5969E79pbewYQF-pjk0SMFrrw/s320/IMG_2770.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35M1No3K5H8kxyLP8GR7P96C_09C6ENSxmz1wjSLTcHCPZUokQCsQNuxoJRgqUzV2W5wLR2YmoRLua5dVijREj0427DhiLJSCVq1IGmAlCQXhVhYJmGOYBrJNJpzBGIqLDobGcxy8vh0/s1600/IMG_2774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35M1No3K5H8kxyLP8GR7P96C_09C6ENSxmz1wjSLTcHCPZUokQCsQNuxoJRgqUzV2W5wLR2YmoRLua5dVijREj0427DhiLJSCVq1IGmAlCQXhVhYJmGOYBrJNJpzBGIqLDobGcxy8vh0/s320/IMG_2774.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhnI1vjFvgj-gTI-C-6OQs8huW3oYOegPHBT9uicyf_hpgkfx9ENWUnbhKlDsbIJzTFR06CuxhjnEq1A53tedD7W-XZML0vbqyBf4tWFcmBnUp_BE4EE-W8hfVkCEQO7QiphnX8XWOAY/s1600/IMG_2777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhnI1vjFvgj-gTI-C-6OQs8huW3oYOegPHBT9uicyf_hpgkfx9ENWUnbhKlDsbIJzTFR06CuxhjnEq1A53tedD7W-XZML0vbqyBf4tWFcmBnUp_BE4EE-W8hfVkCEQO7QiphnX8XWOAY/s320/IMG_2777.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwPN65aaNcQtDbcWukv8d7x5yC-WS1p-h2hinNGJc6Juyg7KPCBW8P5qyT0gARLwRdbB79sfKw4ebISjwq3CV0t6MYdrzAdS0EQpWvyLGPE8coxME9WU2fFuu5VfhWnLx4uLtBB-lRPk4/s1600/IMG_2797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwPN65aaNcQtDbcWukv8d7x5yC-WS1p-h2hinNGJc6Juyg7KPCBW8P5qyT0gARLwRdbB79sfKw4ebISjwq3CV0t6MYdrzAdS0EQpWvyLGPE8coxME9WU2fFuu5VfhWnLx4uLtBB-lRPk4/s320/IMG_2797.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This man was French and was an avid reenactor. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KQ3mA9kVfJnMDm_5JqVEJOwyQyPfLRcqVexxPauBeFy-SUoOYT9AD_ituTJFypOksR2RlAEo5j0i18WEjLjM33OqCCybQ9nUrf0h0rtOERekFX0I5ha2baDX8nZ2-tmzp6oWxysjc-k/s1600/IMG_2800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KQ3mA9kVfJnMDm_5JqVEJOwyQyPfLRcqVexxPauBeFy-SUoOYT9AD_ituTJFypOksR2RlAEo5j0i18WEjLjM33OqCCybQ9nUrf0h0rtOERekFX0I5ha2baDX8nZ2-tmzp6oWxysjc-k/s320/IMG_2800.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He has taken on the persona of a soldier from Alabama and inscribed info on his helmet chin strap. He was excited when he learned I was from Alabama. He is also a Civil War reenactor--go figure, a Frenchman!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHtu9ih9K_TNL7PfJWEsTfsZNCQ8Ow8Dlq9wqwoimWEjJpy-r9PxuIbUvFMhhMNWg9GrRP9vS8bp2ocLP-M0ctSRN6PIAiizpWSYUew1S6gHgTHD5NuDCkrk2QjeDaPJcw5GgCzdqnark/s1600/IMG_2843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHtu9ih9K_TNL7PfJWEsTfsZNCQ8Ow8Dlq9wqwoimWEjJpy-r9PxuIbUvFMhhMNWg9GrRP9vS8bp2ocLP-M0ctSRN6PIAiizpWSYUew1S6gHgTHD5NuDCkrk2QjeDaPJcw5GgCzdqnark/s320/IMG_2843.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were numbers of WW2 era vehicles--Jeeps, motorcycles, trucks.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30vU0PWHvdvnoLtbd6LUOpezHNe7yCdsawhYJEzT6ir07HOejl9I7e01EihMZoJH1drLEs-Rp78rnmbetGCB_t3QCdmn93JrzutjPKbPSlQBu5xUp5lB8-J40bMZRdQ5apT01nJWMDOw/s1600/IMG_2868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30vU0PWHvdvnoLtbd6LUOpezHNe7yCdsawhYJEzT6ir07HOejl9I7e01EihMZoJH1drLEs-Rp78rnmbetGCB_t3QCdmn93JrzutjPKbPSlQBu5xUp5lB8-J40bMZRdQ5apT01nJWMDOw/s320/IMG_2868.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We ran into this gentleman and wife. He was aboard the HMS Prince Albert on D-Day and landed troops on Juno Beach in the British sector. He was 90 years ad was a 21-year old sailor on D-Day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyZ_kLj4QYk_WHddBNcdMz_xXSAFhg70t8P-Mq1wqwcrqVJdVQ4yw018iopJ9H8xLzee_VJT1xHJElIWlvdA2hRSdLNPGrt7kpmzOhLAXKtg_s6w567Dtz8s6PAdokRAe_PkPrdqiNsA/s1600/IMG_2869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPyZ_kLj4QYk_WHddBNcdMz_xXSAFhg70t8P-Mq1wqwcrqVJdVQ4yw018iopJ9H8xLzee_VJT1xHJElIWlvdA2hRSdLNPGrt7kpmzOhLAXKtg_s6w567Dtz8s6PAdokRAe_PkPrdqiNsA/s320/IMG_2869.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He showed us a picture of his ship, HMS Prince Albert</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiDOLYF5NayLdBwRhKXt9BNr8beIeWemj9K9uGLQlWLqvs43G072NgMXGEuo85uXnwLx5C_ZszlpPowd3o7cJ66rjoe56akVuLS5U44OZ54_Bait9car4n8Ecu_MFaCFDq5H_11zIR_o/s1600/IMG_2875.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtiDOLYF5NayLdBwRhKXt9BNr8beIeWemj9K9uGLQlWLqvs43G072NgMXGEuo85uXnwLx5C_ZszlpPowd3o7cJ66rjoe56akVuLS5U44OZ54_Bait9car4n8Ecu_MFaCFDq5H_11zIR_o/s320/IMG_2875.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Also showed us a picture of he and his (then future) wife, circa 1944. They had planned to get married before the war but when he joined the Royal Navy they postponed the wedding and were married after the war.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
How often do you get to shake hands with a D-Day veteran? What an honor!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjizDDjw52T9gCq_b7zodXUpByIb32Tb3UcPdF23vzzv6p3hX1zJfG_CB8AAuNRXFSQnIBvlLUarAQ-b4PIxIrnPzGVa7IVODonh3ij7e0VdDEkkR1OxyNlFlUl2OPTSU7NUt6is7O7JLQ/s1600/994496_10201500637226807_1967755494_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjizDDjw52T9gCq_b7zodXUpByIb32Tb3UcPdF23vzzv6p3hX1zJfG_CB8AAuNRXFSQnIBvlLUarAQ-b4PIxIrnPzGVa7IVODonh3ij7e0VdDEkkR1OxyNlFlUl2OPTSU7NUt6is7O7JLQ/s320/994496_10201500637226807_1967755494_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRWUZ_kIV4M4A0_-iqnOQfD4fGvE3KhD7uwgxZD-WI7mJZDDN0zQyBEyYP_VN9HM10z7EuoUuS1-GmAKR7VtG06t2KotLKaVqGaM9CFXUQyBRe-EEjc-Gps4-RGS434SFzm6jnw1vKzU/s1600/999344_10201500636146780_1152345689_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHRWUZ_kIV4M4A0_-iqnOQfD4fGvE3KhD7uwgxZD-WI7mJZDDN0zQyBEyYP_VN9HM10z7EuoUuS1-GmAKR7VtG06t2KotLKaVqGaM9CFXUQyBRe-EEjc-Gps4-RGS434SFzm6jnw1vKzU/s320/999344_10201500636146780_1152345689_n.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
On to Pointe du Hoc, where some of the fiercest fighting took place on D-Day.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dsAjezL4h_v41XAcX6rUoUPDTYE5D_mREXBtGXZZb40AIVGH8QSBnXP1dinWo1wfUB4xYBdFwROyNLfagztK5G-fh3cbTJwM1Wujp_me1wDUFEyrQtIwkjM5LlCsLKcENonxoJbPCnk/s1600/IMG_2901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dsAjezL4h_v41XAcX6rUoUPDTYE5D_mREXBtGXZZb40AIVGH8QSBnXP1dinWo1wfUB4xYBdFwROyNLfagztK5G-fh3cbTJwM1Wujp_me1wDUFEyrQtIwkjM5LlCsLKcENonxoJbPCnk/s320/IMG_2901.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlooking the beaches below Pointe du Hoc. Army Rangers had to scale these cliffs to take out a German battery.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gaLdNouvQ4SaPSyFPNJE3ZOQRpfHGJRyW6wktzkmJwL-SunZrn_4q13YqlVpMaHmJx4YFCLQoRFJ3CNyTbepvD9-VWHZAif2m53aiTR3Y7VxfHMcbOMVuBUyYGeCDLAJZ1fUNi0rJZk/s1600/IMG_2921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gaLdNouvQ4SaPSyFPNJE3ZOQRpfHGJRyW6wktzkmJwL-SunZrn_4q13YqlVpMaHmJx4YFCLQoRFJ3CNyTbepvD9-VWHZAif2m53aiTR3Y7VxfHMcbOMVuBUyYGeCDLAJZ1fUNi0rJZk/s320/IMG_2921.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Battle scarred but still standing after 70 years. The Germans knew how to build batteries to withstand bombardment.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBBwi6gPcKeXwdwtxP4oeLv2bJPcQ4ggMQiIAqhy9Pu8QqPG5NI8Dr-T46XzNd0Plx_HoczkesSeXZYU1-8iEto5-ofldyJFqkaAOIAluwe0-ek8AlPkJBVFXB4Hz0TqitWblGnTsFic/s1600/IMG_2934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmBBwi6gPcKeXwdwtxP4oeLv2bJPcQ4ggMQiIAqhy9Pu8QqPG5NI8Dr-T46XzNd0Plx_HoczkesSeXZYU1-8iEto5-ofldyJFqkaAOIAluwe0-ek8AlPkJBVFXB4Hz0TqitWblGnTsFic/s320/IMG_2934.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXU-XnuKnqit4jeJ2ESaQsxZ6TfG_TeU7L9gapgXDUtA1BKkt8ahijeGE9lyE5wY7K75RtlDHYAAIxh61VSBvzjfSc9uRpkwlsCKLWC8s1ntLn5EEo_jezIqxKC3LzFspgnRiuO_Dj5s/s1600/IMG_2946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaXU-XnuKnqit4jeJ2ESaQsxZ6TfG_TeU7L9gapgXDUtA1BKkt8ahijeGE9lyE5wY7K75RtlDHYAAIxh61VSBvzjfSc9uRpkwlsCKLWC8s1ntLn5EEo_jezIqxKC3LzFspgnRiuO_Dj5s/s320/IMG_2946.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaque honoring the Rangers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYw4KgtxPEwpq-ohI13aeto96kpbNiDB7gl2ds3THdW-JoZcokRpZXlorVzCAfSRBiglpxsaOXMGaStd0G5z8D8UHcT7ilpmU6Picrnw8vlwh94LKsFuST-gY_oXqoSUFNPTLPQ9cdq_A/s1600/IMG_2881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYw4KgtxPEwpq-ohI13aeto96kpbNiDB7gl2ds3THdW-JoZcokRpZXlorVzCAfSRBiglpxsaOXMGaStd0G5z8D8UHcT7ilpmU6Picrnw8vlwh94LKsFuST-gY_oXqoSUFNPTLPQ9cdq_A/s320/IMG_2881.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing in a crater to show its size. Pointe du Hoc was the most heavily bombed site in Normandy. Massive craters and destroyed bunkers litter the point. Both American heavy bombers and Navy guns hit the Germans here but they still survived to put up a brutal fight against the Rangers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5Ole0VhhSc2VjrjZrZt44eDjwp_5rQo63tpLgWudCfPcqknKJ5wJEtKnpmIQe7LHzXPNMofQh9dZRlDM0uwBgtqrLeqcJ5OxilhPZ5mGfjfzapf8NQ4J0r6SrhW4vLAP4xIzkAe_bSk/s1600/IMG_2933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5Ole0VhhSc2VjrjZrZt44eDjwp_5rQo63tpLgWudCfPcqknKJ5wJEtKnpmIQe7LHzXPNMofQh9dZRlDM0uwBgtqrLeqcJ5OxilhPZ5mGfjfzapf8NQ4J0r6SrhW4vLAP4xIzkAe_bSk/s320/IMG_2933.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More craters and damaged bunkers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Y_qJbykHAIvg1Wq9nI6wZTp0CIcAdamARkXFC8GxDb8CweONBXaQzapEVmDEj41DBjcbR57W0Nae6ldG6wG43wq78JZvkV4ibgZ4crcQnVsbCH8LZSAdk1V4FI21Rsh3CnWToKIAoe0/s1600/IMG_2930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Y_qJbykHAIvg1Wq9nI6wZTp0CIcAdamARkXFC8GxDb8CweONBXaQzapEVmDEj41DBjcbR57W0Nae6ldG6wG43wq78JZvkV4ibgZ4crcQnVsbCH8LZSAdk1V4FI21Rsh3CnWToKIAoe0/s320/IMG_2930.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the German bunker.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
As we walked among the ruins of Omaha Beach, a P-51 Mustang, British Spitfire and Hawker Hurricane flew over. How fitting.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfSdZPVuKSwivCth9yTkr_Wd49sx5L5UW95-FGvQ2ahB943Gg0ouU5F0kz2wkeNEZ0irNGY2ecz2eFxIqMWgdrGfL-mkh8aaQdPNG_UM3YKU5YGablqi93JTFEfkUeaG2zHkwaCB6T4I/s1600/IMG_5956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXfSdZPVuKSwivCth9yTkr_Wd49sx5L5UW95-FGvQ2ahB943Gg0ouU5F0kz2wkeNEZ0irNGY2ecz2eFxIqMWgdrGfL-mkh8aaQdPNG_UM3YKU5YGablqi93JTFEfkUeaG2zHkwaCB6T4I/s320/IMG_5956.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdxYAtlcJrhESNYrN-4Pay-Wn1LLWhnzR26xJ70kkXl-L9wEXnE3wPVeU0gWliKEQf1jYA8WcUFFachHmVrk2M5Q6oiC9bl84QHDFYv97iUZJX6muf5tzpwbpPpG7T3OEAtO6uiUg3aU/s1600/IMG_5954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdxYAtlcJrhESNYrN-4Pay-Wn1LLWhnzR26xJ70kkXl-L9wEXnE3wPVeU0gWliKEQf1jYA8WcUFFachHmVrk2M5Q6oiC9bl84QHDFYv97iUZJX6muf5tzpwbpPpG7T3OEAtO6uiUg3aU/s320/IMG_5954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
We walked Omaha Beach, up the draws where Americans fought to gain a foothold on France, and looked out over the waves and imagined hundreds of ships approaching the French mainland. What a moving visit!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Then we moved on to Utah beach and the villages of the French countryside where so much fighting took place. In Carentan we met Duncan Hollands, an ex-British soldier who served in the Scots Guards and is a WW2 expert, Duncan is a font of knowledge on Normandy in WW2 and I highly recommend him.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYCgD-B9UOQywnE1mdMXOv2a2pm9A5puc6mQd1_mWAtqm7xD3fZPcn3Z1kvrh0t1as1qCsxMjrs-Plq9xHF20yJW86MbfcKENdS9N_NxJwED1QPhtU3SQbPoVrhj7Bx80T9s3_seoEKE/s1600/IMG_5946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYCgD-B9UOQywnE1mdMXOv2a2pm9A5puc6mQd1_mWAtqm7xD3fZPcn3Z1kvrh0t1as1qCsxMjrs-Plq9xHF20yJW86MbfcKENdS9N_NxJwED1QPhtU3SQbPoVrhj7Bx80T9s3_seoEKE/s320/IMG_5946.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duncan Hollands (in center) giving us the history of D-Day at Utah Beach.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzNUUfgI7NG8KdmAbfnqMJBOIhIwnOFtG1xhv4dJMhU449qUe9iqdMr8vRGDGZQhjOij79WbwrQEZJO6sffP88YbbAcU2RxqbsTkEdptWCN3zHLeNY9Xde92I7_Of7duL2i7C0rxcaxA/s1600/IMG_5945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRzNUUfgI7NG8KdmAbfnqMJBOIhIwnOFtG1xhv4dJMhU449qUe9iqdMr8vRGDGZQhjOij79WbwrQEZJO6sffP88YbbAcU2RxqbsTkEdptWCN3zHLeNY9Xde92I7_Of7duL2i7C0rxcaxA/s320/IMG_5945.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Utah beach monument</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzJ48rOzM4A6UKmstmuTkBAIYRf2pQD_1s8KEi-I-4cK0eC5WNnodlpsY2nuSunzLIGrE6TQVdh1tWsImblQ9RjX3y1s0KletFVRwgBYColY-uGQ2gPNNpqH0iUqmw6jnWBrNebBJxhE/s1600/IMG_2971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzJ48rOzM4A6UKmstmuTkBAIYRf2pQD_1s8KEi-I-4cK0eC5WNnodlpsY2nuSunzLIGrE6TQVdh1tWsImblQ9RjX3y1s0KletFVRwgBYColY-uGQ2gPNNpqH0iUqmw6jnWBrNebBJxhE/s320/IMG_2971.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWXfLfK1UZ2VQOTgjT5lveVFpsh72x2Am9srvEEa_pVp8fCE9__hUSMyr1ta-WAQPrHX83_H_qCZrhE6WUHW9UAA_cBoa8HQPdbOzRzCfDjIwrLL2RMByCaaB_RX-2dTs2gilIMZ5ae8/s1600/IMG_2970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKWXfLfK1UZ2VQOTgjT5lveVFpsh72x2Am9srvEEa_pVp8fCE9__hUSMyr1ta-WAQPrHX83_H_qCZrhE6WUHW9UAA_cBoa8HQPdbOzRzCfDjIwrLL2RMByCaaB_RX-2dTs2gilIMZ5ae8/s320/IMG_2970.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We ran into this gentleman, an American WW2 vet, at Utah Beach. It is such a privilege to meet these men.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
One of my favorite stops was at the village of Angoville-au-Plain. In the church there American troops from the 101st Airborne division set up a field hospital and cared for wounded as the battle raged on in the surrounding countryside. Eventually German wounded joined the crowded church. sometime during the battle a mortar round came through the roof and struck the floor but failed to explode. A miracle. The pictures tell the tale:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmd6KKnritMtCGtfVMUO0wfKAN8db1Ti0vuAxJYRk1YS9V5V9yOGPylR7YQmCwu21pK7LyDinh01DFwl4ykT1R6AdUVH5fwe9Kf4i8yB6E0QKN7L1J1YEp6Ydu-pTZ2CjxePlJHgYsvgU/s1600/IMG_5949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmd6KKnritMtCGtfVMUO0wfKAN8db1Ti0vuAxJYRk1YS9V5V9yOGPylR7YQmCwu21pK7LyDinh01DFwl4ykT1R6AdUVH5fwe9Kf4i8yB6E0QKN7L1J1YEp6Ydu-pTZ2CjxePlJHgYsvgU/s320/IMG_5949.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the hole in the cupola where the mortar round came through.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisBqLr99rDPPb3pyKMqC0ZBJUcUPny5twlivCKYmpUBMQ-XJqFmrv54SomXnQbu-KVbB3D1IcGSF3thACazW0mwjJRocAIa1R5XcWsOKKtv0fifDjJOZ9wqePSg-7QOAix_lEi_9GngwQ/s1600/IMG_5950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisBqLr99rDPPb3pyKMqC0ZBJUcUPny5twlivCKYmpUBMQ-XJqFmrv54SomXnQbu-KVbB3D1IcGSF3thACazW0mwjJRocAIa1R5XcWsOKKtv0fifDjJOZ9wqePSg-7QOAix_lEi_9GngwQ/s320/IMG_5950.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shattered floor where the mortar round hit and failed to explode</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWZXBYc9y4Al1vZoHKYUHTduSq9R-1gIY1T1TNs4WouvqbppYmNu-dQNewRUuBtQUst0gFG9Db6BAjrH7r_FKEY3wpOWOIXTJWuWrqKRcYzoYv2s9lUFI9aJG1LuJigH5G1HQQWLaAQg/s1600/IMG_5951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWZXBYc9y4Al1vZoHKYUHTduSq9R-1gIY1T1TNs4WouvqbppYmNu-dQNewRUuBtQUst0gFG9Db6BAjrH7r_FKEY3wpOWOIXTJWuWrqKRcYzoYv2s9lUFI9aJG1LuJigH5G1HQQWLaAQg/s320/IMG_5951.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blood marks still visible on the church pew.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Our last stop was at the American cemetery at Colville sur Mer. So many stories rest here. Theodore Roosevelt Jr., who died of a heart attack during the battle rests here.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOmg1Z2V_LA13qz-BfsRsAn9ptgPtZHUeuP1ONjr29HXlE1G5TT-2SSxdBgW2-tDiNRmDbHGLTjQLuPgj3KybzWRtxsABdONrnzgEs7KiXbGewnZ1RW-yfez6oeVswC2OuisHISmuThK0/s1600/IMG_5969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOmg1Z2V_LA13qz-BfsRsAn9ptgPtZHUeuP1ONjr29HXlE1G5TT-2SSxdBgW2-tDiNRmDbHGLTjQLuPgj3KybzWRtxsABdONrnzgEs7KiXbGewnZ1RW-yfez6oeVswC2OuisHISmuThK0/s320/IMG_5969.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgGxvUCdQYih8HpXigmOfBNYWeYujzaTroUeWJLNihFzkRNBpH9ZBbMZEv8ni9NM4MS2iblIErDbeAlwunraLZ1kr11hw4-alxJbST5M6ux-3jaFyERWQwWZqpj2SW9dH99b2mF_5gF3I/s1600/IMG_5974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgGxvUCdQYih8HpXigmOfBNYWeYujzaTroUeWJLNihFzkRNBpH9ZBbMZEv8ni9NM4MS2iblIErDbeAlwunraLZ1kr11hw4-alxJbST5M6ux-3jaFyERWQwWZqpj2SW9dH99b2mF_5gF3I/s320/IMG_5974.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
We continued touring through the French countryside, visiting Ste Mere d'Englise, Carentan, Bayeux, Deadman's Corner, Vierville and the French hedgerow country where Allied soldiers fought so hard.<br />
<br />
If you are interested in WW2 history, this trip is a must-do. Do yourself a favor and engage Duncan Hollands for your tour at <a href="http://www.normandysightseeingservices.com/">http://www.normandysightseeingservices.com/</a>It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-68001718071281726862015-11-30T10:28:00.001-06:002015-11-30T14:24:46.256-06:00Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M7sNM1jb91T6kBzlcN4jbMyY6FM45CO5E-afIowotUJ66pfo_7eUPfxvxAK5TMwVTsOWyyCI5NGFxW1K1VaKrz7mZwOfezUUgmwgFMzkmUrbhH2TFlgngR5G_c2W-fDcMYDIMc65cBM/s1600/12127830913_16035ef1c3_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2M7sNM1jb91T6kBzlcN4jbMyY6FM45CO5E-afIowotUJ66pfo_7eUPfxvxAK5TMwVTsOWyyCI5NGFxW1K1VaKrz7mZwOfezUUgmwgFMzkmUrbhH2TFlgngR5G_c2W-fDcMYDIMc65cBM/s400/12127830913_16035ef1c3_k.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
One of my favorite Alabama places, Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge in north Alabama is 34,500 acres of wetlands, open rivers, sloughs, hardwood forests, swamps and fields. Established as a refuge for waterfowl in 1938, Wheeler is the winter home to thousands of ducks, geese and other waterfowl. In recent years it has hosted an increasing number of sandhill cranes and endangered whooping cranes. In 2014 over 15,000 sandhill cranes overwintered at Wheeler and in the past dozen years a slowly increasing number of whooping cranes have spent their winters there. Twenty-six whooping cranes were present in 2014. There are less than 600 whooping cranes left in the world so Wheeler hosts a significant population of these rare and striking birds.<br />
<br />
From November through March overwintering waterfowl are always visible on the refuge. Popular viewing spots are Limestone Bay, Beaverdam Peninsula, Flint Creek, and Crabtree Slough. But perhaps the best place to see birds is from the refuge's Observation Building, a modern two-story structure that overlooks open water and fields. On any winter day you can count on seeing hundreds of ducks and geese, sandhill cranes and maybe a handful of whooping cranes, often within close range, from the warmth of the heated building. The Observation Building has one-way glass so the birds are not disturbed by your presence. Arguably the best place in Alabama to observe waterfowl up close and in my opinion the best place in the world to view whooping cranes.<br />
<br />
Check out this photo gallery of Wheeler's visitors, courtesy of photographer George Lee.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxmyrG-X0D2pUMfINx3MEYDK6dwWuoKa5BScxC-x2KoiJmM7kW2ZlovUBVWPUJ9y4PlPieuxZG1VSczLDTZHBKxoOcl0UX8VX6bhafk619wBBVvwE5PY7YiEE55x9a-b0PpGGh3d20J0/s1600/15754678290_b4099e09d4_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxmyrG-X0D2pUMfINx3MEYDK6dwWuoKa5BScxC-x2KoiJmM7kW2ZlovUBVWPUJ9y4PlPieuxZG1VSczLDTZHBKxoOcl0UX8VX6bhafk619wBBVvwE5PY7YiEE55x9a-b0PpGGh3d20J0/s400/15754678290_b4099e09d4_k.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandhill cranes showing off</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBEFiGg6LQomoKSMSQ2WHiNXgSvqaO51iEQOfIbt8EQ4h74VxfciKqi8bkXbNk5zYd9v22RPlx-jxmeR2amPcMaaUM2VTPhkxPjYLIp-V5IoXIO432KU7yoekUMkSqxY9s6ehz3pFjRg/s1600/15795236977_92a7015da7_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBEFiGg6LQomoKSMSQ2WHiNXgSvqaO51iEQOfIbt8EQ4h74VxfciKqi8bkXbNk5zYd9v22RPlx-jxmeR2amPcMaaUM2VTPhkxPjYLIp-V5IoXIO432KU7yoekUMkSqxY9s6ehz3pFjRg/s400/15795236977_92a7015da7_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two Whooping cranes trying to blend in with Sandhill cranes (good luck!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgutD1-rT6kIidmfRePTJ7jLc8UDpfEtXL1PZg5JXU1uVsuJr4gwm9_F4Oho6apDHxAdUXf8_EXADAfGdgFX29ahMUP9HzQXZYvYlA3xIg2XIPuetLVOCgAB9bNT7PtuUFdH991jTf409Y/s1600/13907057264_3b47e6ab40_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgutD1-rT6kIidmfRePTJ7jLc8UDpfEtXL1PZg5JXU1uVsuJr4gwm9_F4Oho6apDHxAdUXf8_EXADAfGdgFX29ahMUP9HzQXZYvYlA3xIg2XIPuetLVOCgAB9bNT7PtuUFdH991jTf409Y/s400/13907057264_3b47e6ab40_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of water means lots of reptiles and amphibians. Wheeler is home to a small population of American alligators</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCorxgnfGNvN_DlzaS3as5nj8VuaJTiCGZdF9xpySgRFOYoPdMHvlGPwwzP2WAqQo5lkMZDjQM39s0tydCPoDWSrGwL9In1DvBmRahwiobNPT9YtJm0Y4ARzuVFgcHgkZkKxwVqkGfXe4/s1600/12425204045_6d5b9bd145_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCorxgnfGNvN_DlzaS3as5nj8VuaJTiCGZdF9xpySgRFOYoPdMHvlGPwwzP2WAqQo5lkMZDjQM39s0tydCPoDWSrGwL9In1DvBmRahwiobNPT9YtJm0Y4ARzuVFgcHgkZkKxwVqkGfXe4/s400/12425204045_6d5b9bd145_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northern shovelers are just one of many species that call Wheeler NWR their winter home.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhPsCZ5kgm-BBgafwEkbkR0aGT43U2eahH6vgZf7tP-wrztz49qcisDsrgfE-xX1LP5U7e_i4I10RNma1kQ1Q09YzoeQGSs0X8CQhKvCfTqS2nlOcyUwQ8-JNdidkK8HCb3M2nBtayo4/s1600/14151200926_cfe3196269_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMhPsCZ5kgm-BBgafwEkbkR0aGT43U2eahH6vgZf7tP-wrztz49qcisDsrgfE-xX1LP5U7e_i4I10RNma1kQ1Q09YzoeQGSs0X8CQhKvCfTqS2nlOcyUwQ8-JNdidkK8HCb3M2nBtayo4/s400/14151200926_cfe3196269_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amphibians abound!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBdVZUlQX4NfTtqU3tCOCIBsb7xHNWLmcyr_0D1RUTpwHY7b0qrwgnfmWKDFis4xbPX4-sx_7tnm6YPI1t9S-1rHtMxfi4V-jptfTx1eBzTB-CSNRu8pZLLTBAxdQJKfd4txwI62uUJs/s1600/14349133725_ccd2120fa4_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBdVZUlQX4NfTtqU3tCOCIBsb7xHNWLmcyr_0D1RUTpwHY7b0qrwgnfmWKDFis4xbPX4-sx_7tnm6YPI1t9S-1rHtMxfi4V-jptfTx1eBzTB-CSNRu8pZLLTBAxdQJKfd4txwI62uUJs/s400/14349133725_ccd2120fa4_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coyotes and bobcats are two predators on the refuge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKNHFEZWPWv_M0ypDh0MJV-vCGcexN7ttBDIFQXZuAy5CEWepFDxb5uhpd8IVANFSG9-nCMLGhTmmYwjfF4jE6DoyVem2xy0VmrQLjuHqBIZN00hnYiUOgP6v8qlnLgz041YptAHrQdw/s1600/16210162595_a5496af24a_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKNHFEZWPWv_M0ypDh0MJV-vCGcexN7ttBDIFQXZuAy5CEWepFDxb5uhpd8IVANFSG9-nCMLGhTmmYwjfF4jE6DoyVem2xy0VmrQLjuHqBIZN00hnYiUOgP6v8qlnLgz041YptAHrQdw/s400/16210162595_a5496af24a_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hooded Mergansers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkW7IXhXxJyFyHmas-CHTmrJXhBPHErapTnmenNbxAU2lpb9Xe-CnjPxN_ajKGNI3ca43M3p9eH0NCZdvmX5ZleIrt7SYbv5_E2P317s7_5tyo-sSteg56YYcK8Ab4UMxImjYInqueLjE/s1600/5293911907_ac419a9bd5_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkW7IXhXxJyFyHmas-CHTmrJXhBPHErapTnmenNbxAU2lpb9Xe-CnjPxN_ajKGNI3ca43M3p9eH0NCZdvmX5ZleIrt7SYbv5_E2P317s7_5tyo-sSteg56YYcK8Ab4UMxImjYInqueLjE/s400/5293911907_ac419a9bd5_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crowded skies are a common sight in winter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7wVVbe3aqSxxbkpluJXwZBjif1UxTubCj-vf2-7ZMlPDQs5nGPqG54WrqB2u7MltKeGwePXnpCHiAGPezwGIkLirnjy14doY6IniTz4Z5SLHZHPCak7LobjUwnqWSAA_ZQEFYkGVxyGU/s1600/5359022791_ea5f09baef_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7wVVbe3aqSxxbkpluJXwZBjif1UxTubCj-vf2-7ZMlPDQs5nGPqG54WrqB2u7MltKeGwePXnpCHiAGPezwGIkLirnjy14doY6IniTz4Z5SLHZHPCak7LobjUwnqWSAA_ZQEFYkGVxyGU/s400/5359022791_ea5f09baef_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandhill cranes, mallards, gadwalls American wigeons, northern shovelers, ringnecked ducks, wood ducks and others share space at Wheeler</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSrYEVPPOLKSHVDsSM4xXpX1PUHD1IPbNa0FRZyLA4efn8dA57w-leWarmZ4tVPYNHlFtWH2EoiocqFb4NtHzA28VZ8FNpAkw6U3JJTnLn26V3u9o562TyRtxG_vQW6A8EigbqcQxAUpI/s1600/11767620235_f06cb9b071_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSrYEVPPOLKSHVDsSM4xXpX1PUHD1IPbNa0FRZyLA4efn8dA57w-leWarmZ4tVPYNHlFtWH2EoiocqFb4NtHzA28VZ8FNpAkw6U3JJTnLn26V3u9o562TyRtxG_vQW6A8EigbqcQxAUpI/s400/11767620235_f06cb9b071_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful shot of a sandhill crane in evening light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDOKRIXbvJa2qKBW6UnWt_5WDmxp978A2SnA-H2G2-3gULFD4fnl1nJFWcMe2VNqgfAVoYm1GHbUkVInqV_lL4EqDjGkOpMlzKotTxMsx5ljIPaT4EHilxHvW-NBAAUqAvpzhV4CJbYM/s1600/15815538577_098bb25f2e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDOKRIXbvJa2qKBW6UnWt_5WDmxp978A2SnA-H2G2-3gULFD4fnl1nJFWcMe2VNqgfAVoYm1GHbUkVInqV_lL4EqDjGkOpMlzKotTxMsx5ljIPaT4EHilxHvW-NBAAUqAvpzhV4CJbYM/s400/15815538577_098bb25f2e_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canvasback</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xstswzjeq9ePRjKTodnYlmrftLxFJSy7AiB86Iu-5bzD0-TzWpnBhup-JfafEE2YXjSVZmIA_jk50hl7jt5-UMu8tFXT2i76i0VUuJ3nNVMVGYJTqinzq8oUSxPfxdMwNtAax6Aj4IE/s1600/11846260744_76d5c7d1b8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xstswzjeq9ePRjKTodnYlmrftLxFJSy7AiB86Iu-5bzD0-TzWpnBhup-JfafEE2YXjSVZmIA_jk50hl7jt5-UMu8tFXT2i76i0VUuJ3nNVMVGYJTqinzq8oUSxPfxdMwNtAax6Aj4IE/s400/11846260744_76d5c7d1b8_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More sandhills in flight</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNoz6zhjezuBD_XJyZTPzP7Eb3PW3N7qJQV7PiZQM4pEYnGgHlF1nNUvyrjxeo_B3FYcxyY-kXAdZ5A7juTOo2lYPEpZ5SpEIrmApd8H_-IMY5v8OqI6ijcQDFsYfaYQJZCQk_SjO06fY/s1600/16725238853_6b50f25080_k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="50" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNoz6zhjezuBD_XJyZTPzP7Eb3PW3N7qJQV7PiZQM4pEYnGgHlF1nNUvyrjxeo_B3FYcxyY-kXAdZ5A7juTOo2lYPEpZ5SpEIrmApd8H_-IMY5v8OqI6ijcQDFsYfaYQJZCQk_SjO06fY/s400/16725238853_6b50f25080_k.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fields near the Observation Building teem with birds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUteWyQXwye6d0laq-f4Vi5DcaUlkIpeQwKMSkd0hAMfbwjUc-NNFqfN_CFItKdrePKQxN7DSVRQqHcLTzAPNEZd2whBagMPIaWarhFBG2HS8-Qt8x75OSi6fvsB-2wQN2sdApQ9vBlc/s1600/12278124584_c965ec6621_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUteWyQXwye6d0laq-f4Vi5DcaUlkIpeQwKMSkd0hAMfbwjUc-NNFqfN_CFItKdrePKQxN7DSVRQqHcLTzAPNEZd2whBagMPIaWarhFBG2HS8-Qt8x75OSi6fvsB-2wQN2sdApQ9vBlc/s400/12278124584_c965ec6621_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whooping crane sharing airspace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYGDqlIAxbSvLZFHx4nXb1GlqH1KOr-H3SZJ7_Cp0BsXIUrxQXPJcAXtIbJWqB1rpS4eshu7yzShynh6oVNArjw2oAAkiAoVjJj1WKSwFP0NmYafYNioMyK4gWJWa7MSj5kC3MCArtNo/s1600/12425141953_3aa1b6d1f4_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvYGDqlIAxbSvLZFHx4nXb1GlqH1KOr-H3SZJ7_Cp0BsXIUrxQXPJcAXtIbJWqB1rpS4eshu7yzShynh6oVNArjw2oAAkiAoVjJj1WKSwFP0NmYafYNioMyK4gWJWa7MSj5kC3MCArtNo/s400/12425141953_3aa1b6d1f4_o.jpg" width="375" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Armadillo posing for a glamour shot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjgRDpshAWaq_zveU1BT4T2svEuQ40h-5cx9ovx8Er-9lecnynk5tr1R1LjiqkhdgTsvT2qiX65AP7p1sBLpzYvDt7agorW7PhJxnPCOEqQ1p3T0mB0uXGQr1LvwwFcTSy1mwxdTfUeU/s1600/13437301785_6f0f6a8fbb_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjgRDpshAWaq_zveU1BT4T2svEuQ40h-5cx9ovx8Er-9lecnynk5tr1R1LjiqkhdgTsvT2qiX65AP7p1sBLpzYvDt7agorW7PhJxnPCOEqQ1p3T0mB0uXGQr1LvwwFcTSy1mwxdTfUeU/s400/13437301785_6f0f6a8fbb_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wood ducks are plentiful. Wheeler NWR personnel conduct annual banding efforts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSdavwSI3mEd3idDTrGGKEfWfy689RjlPwkE8l4v-IvcZFGkf38jI_9NviEGrrjWNH4yCy4BytBLvpTcaJXb341UU_gUkFgPsz1Bua_RxoTcNOhukTYtaeLgvztncVHBnXiDoq0kg46Q/s1600/15388477843_6c13b32a3a_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSdavwSI3mEd3idDTrGGKEfWfy689RjlPwkE8l4v-IvcZFGkf38jI_9NviEGrrjWNH4yCy4BytBLvpTcaJXb341UU_gUkFgPsz1Bua_RxoTcNOhukTYtaeLgvztncVHBnXiDoq0kg46Q/s400/15388477843_6c13b32a3a_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American wigeons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-3HTu5rXFiwjG-23UvJrAdt38_oA78BJ51DciCk40r-YjoUO4PevteHhL_JpvXx5yhv9ZDkq9VrCk9TZH-NofahiQd4u2daGhqyc5WFI7GaIovLfyT9cZfcZYe-Y5HhHsBUxyC5kqtQ/s1600/15519946559_d9173a63e9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-3HTu5rXFiwjG-23UvJrAdt38_oA78BJ51DciCk40r-YjoUO4PevteHhL_JpvXx5yhv9ZDkq9VrCk9TZH-NofahiQd4u2daGhqyc5WFI7GaIovLfyT9cZfcZYe-Y5HhHsBUxyC5kqtQ/s400/15519946559_d9173a63e9_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A curious river otter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhUNIMjEDgGOP-HJcbzonD94nICYOW6Xiyf1DOaZmbZmifwY0apTyR9wjw5hGcJuzj938zEFDvOVtMaQBLSWlt4k_yoSUDuQaFo02Awh9rLSN6Wg_YO1JaiJNVkZp0PpBtnQvW_y9nheU/s1600/15550815971_688aec4d51_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhUNIMjEDgGOP-HJcbzonD94nICYOW6Xiyf1DOaZmbZmifwY0apTyR9wjw5hGcJuzj938zEFDvOVtMaQBLSWlt4k_yoSUDuQaFo02Awh9rLSN6Wg_YO1JaiJNVkZp0PpBtnQvW_y9nheU/s400/15550815971_688aec4d51_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-tailed deer are common</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2CSYMSsBKdiBFcz4fFxs_ygnE7Kx9GeldFo6DRuvBQShj2dohjKXyBipHB5MZSYIGIAUnsRPQqoPeymDNyqYpWUz-iEPl5Yf9yZYZLx3l3PYVKHZMJ4IpDqtM3EEstg9U5DSZwIbxG_c/s1600/15724897475_4f58f86cec_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2CSYMSsBKdiBFcz4fFxs_ygnE7Kx9GeldFo6DRuvBQShj2dohjKXyBipHB5MZSYIGIAUnsRPQqoPeymDNyqYpWUz-iEPl5Yf9yZYZLx3l3PYVKHZMJ4IpDqtM3EEstg9U5DSZwIbxG_c/s400/15724897475_4f58f86cec_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two of the resident bald eagles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0dZxSJM5ijvoPZDyk9KlL1TC9j8yMqFXLsn42_mNc1_Fc6RfraracHjSTkNBrnIlswxWdfcPzXCFrN5mUN05ro4s11PeLQJO7zwNT_2rfsG3SqQkG3ECPq4itJ3-y1PMY3MvZSsid0k/s1600/15564153456_9b9475f438_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib0dZxSJM5ijvoPZDyk9KlL1TC9j8yMqFXLsn42_mNc1_Fc6RfraracHjSTkNBrnIlswxWdfcPzXCFrN5mUN05ro4s11PeLQJO7zwNT_2rfsG3SqQkG3ECPq4itJ3-y1PMY3MvZSsid0k/s400/15564153456_9b9475f438_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pied billed grebe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq5DnDTf_xOqopbchC1uDSR1V5lyh6QpHGmY5JoOSdaMCIPXIM0lFS3zFr0NQAYFYpdu9zOkEz5IVJKX1-BjtpEEtHjuoO0D68LD0W4abnsW5GGbHp4zGcTUlZo6IK7BC8YT0YujQf3Q/s1600/15558158737_6e2e0d0406_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZq5DnDTf_xOqopbchC1uDSR1V5lyh6QpHGmY5JoOSdaMCIPXIM0lFS3zFr0NQAYFYpdu9zOkEz5IVJKX1-BjtpEEtHjuoO0D68LD0W4abnsW5GGbHp4zGcTUlZo6IK7BC8YT0YujQf3Q/s400/15558158737_6e2e0d0406_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rafts of hundreds of American white pelicans and snow geese are present in winter in the Flint Creek and Limestone Bay areas. It is not unusual to see 2000 pelicans and a like number of snow geese on Limestone Bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-85161558725751114772015-11-29T23:18:00.004-06:002015-12-03T12:46:41.315-06:00Amazon River Trip, Peru<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTsyZJJ5kOrN7MSU3RoTdEnfeDG8iVUIoF6TQ9dqCxgroSuw99_L35i47NXxyM2r9gWHObXv-Aj7L5sP7zZ4OYYgBzKdTgVYMp-vz8igc-0ZFEDjLPdpIqWK9FGKAuLbbSsb8bS7Ptvms/s1600/IMG_8967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTsyZJJ5kOrN7MSU3RoTdEnfeDG8iVUIoF6TQ9dqCxgroSuw99_L35i47NXxyM2r9gWHObXv-Aj7L5sP7zZ4OYYgBzKdTgVYMp-vz8igc-0ZFEDjLPdpIqWK9FGKAuLbbSsb8bS7Ptvms/s400/IMG_8967.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I looked forward to this trip with a mixture of excitement and apprehension. Excitement is understandable--getting to experience the beauty and wildness of the longest river in the world. The apprehension is perhaps my personal worry. I have read too may stories about deforestation and ruin along the river. I was afraid of what I may see. Denuded forests? Slash and burn ranches? Or what I may not see: monkeys, macaws, sloths, river dolphins.<br />
<br />
All these thoughts went through my mind again as our plane began its descent into Iquitos Peru. We had a long flight from Lima and I had peered out the plane window most of the trip, trying to get a feel for what was happening in the vast forests below. What I saw was comforting. Most of the forests were an unbroken carpet of green. Perhaps my fears were unfounded.<br />
<br />
Iquitos is the main jumping off point on this upper part of the Amazon River. It's a bustling, dirty, crowded, noisy port city on the river, the main shipping port for goods, people and trade on the river. the only access to Iquitos is by boat or plane; no roads lead in or out. <br />
<br />
We boarded our boat, an old but nicely appointed river boat called the Aquamarina, on the riverfront there and set out into the swirling, muddy Amazon. The river is wide here and we happened to be there when the river was particularly high from unusually strong rains. I talked to a vendor in the Iquitos market and she said the water was as high as she had seen in 38 years.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_-0tblC4xmt-vW_xHibhUk7UNWVOaygpK4X0HjEVIK4OH3ENlEKnXaDAsrBwoURZ89nykIMiPb6HAkE86S-PuQaZGkeZ2XR7jv53ionaTItXyeeEya48XP3xUj4UqH0Ggk944q8xqGk/s1600/AMZ071311+189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_-0tblC4xmt-vW_xHibhUk7UNWVOaygpK4X0HjEVIK4OH3ENlEKnXaDAsrBwoURZ89nykIMiPb6HAkE86S-PuQaZGkeZ2XR7jv53ionaTItXyeeEya48XP3xUj4UqH0Ggk944q8xqGk/s320/AMZ071311+189.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toucans were common</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEoRH9mAq7TwpF4dd-l7Yvjl_FFYYqm3d_5V_omKEn72PjrYXbTBzong6o5ducPvjxzDNHvvD3Ek_uoYkCC6pPH-RMsacrNUFeEHF8vYRUAPh9Sx8SPNyjaWdAjxRPhrg8HjKODia2lM/s1600/IMG_4857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQEoRH9mAq7TwpF4dd-l7Yvjl_FFYYqm3d_5V_omKEn72PjrYXbTBzong6o5ducPvjxzDNHvvD3Ek_uoYkCC6pPH-RMsacrNUFeEHF8vYRUAPh9Sx8SPNyjaWdAjxRPhrg8HjKODia2lM/s320/IMG_4857.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Capuchin monkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYi7fIQ-CflUo8JvDThdBXizn_mvZCjGBK9yZeBy5day33d0LkgO8K9UZufwivtfess6yFAxulisgxyCdq4yXuegCM7aWig65c7sK5iwarTcUMwRVqzM9AcUysGx89m34jx99OVr_yz4/s1600/AMZ0519+171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYi7fIQ-CflUo8JvDThdBXizn_mvZCjGBK9yZeBy5day33d0LkgO8K9UZufwivtfess6yFAxulisgxyCdq4yXuegCM7aWig65c7sK5iwarTcUMwRVqzM9AcUysGx89m34jx99OVr_yz4/s400/AMZ0519+171.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many flooded villages<br />
<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The locals were flooded out of their homes. Many river villages were partially underwater. <br />
<br />
As we continued upriver we discovered that my fears about ravaged forests and scarce wildlife were unfounded. Wildlife was everywhere.<br />
<div style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLYkV3m9GpYNI9U6T6wxMA3rqc0A48IJwndy3OOWrfd8DHAdzK0vp1CVDxCGssASE17t_B5YjmIc3G5Ogxl97ReklYVQM2MTqHf6dZDOGBZ74c0-h7Ze4R1gp82aWxYSDjlAFgSTdyM84/s1600/IMG_8506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLYkV3m9GpYNI9U6T6wxMA3rqc0A48IJwndy3OOWrfd8DHAdzK0vp1CVDxCGssASE17t_B5YjmIc3G5Ogxl97ReklYVQM2MTqHf6dZDOGBZ74c0-h7Ze4R1gp82aWxYSDjlAFgSTdyM84/s320/IMG_8506.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monk saki monkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWqojULapVomnTiUJe2p0QnHQDT1HHBmtzkpZZHiSilAn5JJylFoUIWfYi17QINhhECch4jdWyXii71Lim-4EghbC4pr3HoM4jDx2_ZqRVzxuUNexmHjVMs-9zG-5t07WSxcx25HMS6U/s1600/IMG_8677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWqojULapVomnTiUJe2p0QnHQDT1HHBmtzkpZZHiSilAn5JJylFoUIWfYi17QINhhECch4jdWyXii71Lim-4EghbC4pr3HoM4jDx2_ZqRVzxuUNexmHjVMs-9zG-5t07WSxcx25HMS6U/s320/IMG_8677.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green tree iguana</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ntNOWOk9_ev48SdG-iEKgeBtkhh9v4vjeNzg7iVRQAT2qbIYphUEN8_GAkzs8GzQzkDlkIKHBr6uPCv8ccr41FGJJVOr9LwDqJWStsGY2jIKsLWwLBD9EEdM4QqVRPXUdkqc42jg80s/s1600/IMG_8718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ntNOWOk9_ev48SdG-iEKgeBtkhh9v4vjeNzg7iVRQAT2qbIYphUEN8_GAkzs8GzQzkDlkIKHBr6uPCv8ccr41FGJJVOr9LwDqJWStsGY2jIKsLWwLBD9EEdM4QqVRPXUdkqc42jg80s/s320/IMG_8718.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 9 foot black caiman</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuApi8y6MhBPmN0h6fzs1_Hq2t29czhubWYZG1Vruqvhuh1LpkPhZN0519Ada769XwbaAWGjvN_jJod8Zr7fwHkIKLwYKj4fOvxGwHPxLEJxrzClBk_cGzcAc-5uKv-vXm73bqQm9BHI/s1600/IMG_8848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTuApi8y6MhBPmN0h6fzs1_Hq2t29czhubWYZG1Vruqvhuh1LpkPhZN0519Ada769XwbaAWGjvN_jJod8Zr7fwHkIKLwYKj4fOvxGwHPxLEJxrzClBk_cGzcAc-5uKv-vXm73bqQm9BHI/s320/IMG_8848.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibANRYvMG7Ba4B03m4sDsqcGQx5V_Mv6uyFm_Xk1mfVj31EW05rbhgYXCQrN1nOgrJnOIcaNT2RpDPhp-lfyum2kVgre3j_Nh1fRkKvJN5M66EliqJtSli7VYbQ2gQvy1moKaAODkHirE/s1600/IMG_8858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibANRYvMG7Ba4B03m4sDsqcGQx5V_Mv6uyFm_Xk1mfVj31EW05rbhgYXCQrN1nOgrJnOIcaNT2RpDPhp-lfyum2kVgre3j_Nh1fRkKvJN5M66EliqJtSli7VYbQ2gQvy1moKaAODkHirE/s320/IMG_8858.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spotted six varieties of toucans.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFD9o_izhVh7meQl4p7PvqDObyzUeZF-utmZmRtCAx0V6wV9W4S4ZoVhONsdnBHJiZv-7VzLD9cradIRCO26wuL0u2Ayl1OO9BuX5Ghkp49IcW9Ss-cUChT10nyAlQVu_rVgnsrwIh0E/s1600/IMG_8868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFD9o_izhVh7meQl4p7PvqDObyzUeZF-utmZmRtCAx0V6wV9W4S4ZoVhONsdnBHJiZv-7VzLD9cradIRCO26wuL0u2Ayl1OO9BuX5Ghkp49IcW9Ss-cUChT10nyAlQVu_rVgnsrwIh0E/s320/IMG_8868.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOqOb3xd0gfJ9wjz8n03pFFi6Yw1UGA8eYPSgwBq6aKYu-_2MFxdqaRP6ks-fyU7Si_8C7IVJpqqCITytEWX_Woanm4iOYUu4dOtWbySsYtN6RuAj_riwgzK_cbaZXZ5-DBvbesv26pVw/s1600/IMG_8892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOqOb3xd0gfJ9wjz8n03pFFi6Yw1UGA8eYPSgwBq6aKYu-_2MFxdqaRP6ks-fyU7Si_8C7IVJpqqCITytEWX_Woanm4iOYUu4dOtWbySsYtN6RuAj_riwgzK_cbaZXZ5-DBvbesv26pVw/s320/IMG_8892.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parakeets were plentiful. We saw hundreds flying over daily.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsjz94jgi3p1xhYe1My4FuYpordOQ6w976bwo9-InVOop4z-RqvP7U-pHhgcRtRyG29tbf9mQ2o0u0MzYXFvJqZnYcJdN10TwWnEzDKeverQARoO4ZyeJ68C2Ht-XV3k2kLfaNbur3Es/s1600/IMG_9003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsjz94jgi3p1xhYe1My4FuYpordOQ6w976bwo9-InVOop4z-RqvP7U-pHhgcRtRyG29tbf9mQ2o0u0MzYXFvJqZnYcJdN10TwWnEzDKeverQARoO4ZyeJ68C2Ht-XV3k2kLfaNbur3Es/s320/IMG_9003.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were hoping to see at least one three-toed sloth. To our delight we saw 13 including on with a baby!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblc_XV64oM-CzMHZ1Ig9zV7Ewx7WtROCWodO12OjWXIzXbnNdaUETRUiVHYr8cb0C8ILgvQZFeJ3OWvQnFcEDrmzede2o5HqxzAMTFOmlvjplzKdAW9D1VYcl7vJbHhOKlDtPNXme5S4/s1600/IMG_9004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblc_XV64oM-CzMHZ1Ig9zV7Ewx7WtROCWodO12OjWXIzXbnNdaUETRUiVHYr8cb0C8ILgvQZFeJ3OWvQnFcEDrmzede2o5HqxzAMTFOmlvjplzKdAW9D1VYcl7vJbHhOKlDtPNXme5S4/s320/IMG_9004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sloth close-up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4m04Q7O68b3PVduXXP6o6Iyf_Q5t0iKPYJ1kVY4UmSCsBuRnRQgPQ3mgPGqpS10_n_q0iM21NEweVWkGWSjAKUV7GYorKqbwEPFY9GSrC6V6j42d9iWqfRLtanBjKgFutMQKL_bFq1mM/s1600/IMG_9014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4m04Q7O68b3PVduXXP6o6Iyf_Q5t0iKPYJ1kVY4UmSCsBuRnRQgPQ3mgPGqpS10_n_q0iM21NEweVWkGWSjAKUV7GYorKqbwEPFY9GSrC6V6j42d9iWqfRLtanBjKgFutMQKL_bFq1mM/s320/IMG_9014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red and green macaw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYg74IDUxnaEroaRwuIf50K5NDb1T_6MSEC6IYXl5HjC_MG6TytODZZzxPbhNKU7c1xSe3wRj3DGc83WIVDtgvnInnbTtESz154B-D14o3PxQ-0WPN3Dm9QypluyDoM3ismWiVBIGf-vA/s1600/IMG_9141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYg74IDUxnaEroaRwuIf50K5NDb1T_6MSEC6IYXl5HjC_MG6TytODZZzxPbhNKU7c1xSe3wRj3DGc83WIVDtgvnInnbTtESz154B-D14o3PxQ-0WPN3Dm9QypluyDoM3ismWiVBIGf-vA/s320/IMG_9141.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yikes! Nice looking tarantula.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrJPDyaGFlnh2pa_lzNRLvIsM1nUwxz4dhqdiYugIvhObLErz9YJn8bZJHlVuFZk7WMLtJWOF5QwQOq2LJLQxeh21-LiD9vdj-YqaURTW_i2pa_Xt0K8xnHjip53xiiGJTLh1HYOrTwY/s1600/IMG_9155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibrJPDyaGFlnh2pa_lzNRLvIsM1nUwxz4dhqdiYugIvhObLErz9YJn8bZJHlVuFZk7WMLtJWOF5QwQOq2LJLQxeh21-LiD9vdj-YqaURTW_i2pa_Xt0K8xnHjip53xiiGJTLh1HYOrTwY/s320/IMG_9155.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And that famous snake of the Amazon, anaconda. Our guide found this guy for us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULdscl3KWrvYsj2gWDpP93Scjkhy5kCK-4gwqOGDKTwTv9pBrQh_5vvhJ25TbO-7PgteNSUjr85KCsewXVA4ze81ioHRlXtqDoks3UrBLhaj5vq3ZX1y5UJgBunrp3Y2G3lUZzrhxpow/s1600/IMG_9196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULdscl3KWrvYsj2gWDpP93Scjkhy5kCK-4gwqOGDKTwTv9pBrQh_5vvhJ25TbO-7PgteNSUjr85KCsewXVA4ze81ioHRlXtqDoks3UrBLhaj5vq3ZX1y5UJgBunrp3Y2G3lUZzrhxpow/s320/IMG_9196.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She's holding her baby.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEpWpYoJ56h_YghV8AoMCktOmvK5iRNDvEuL-0PkUunNo5wnrGU1Vp5Sf-cUIVCv4-Z1LuEzMxRxLmbaksTUg9qQKEOdny7nRFg5USI9gRaa5B0YPmuVWljZPNuvGT5pxQBknvpfrvJBc/s1600/IMG_9217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEpWpYoJ56h_YghV8AoMCktOmvK5iRNDvEuL-0PkUunNo5wnrGU1Vp5Sf-cUIVCv4-Z1LuEzMxRxLmbaksTUg9qQKEOdny7nRFg5USI9gRaa5B0YPmuVWljZPNuvGT5pxQBknvpfrvJBc/s320/IMG_9217.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This giant river otter came right up to our skiff.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGeYP-dbBIp9THyIOBeAdMQ3udzgKQSOvtohruz1Dv1dL_gINn3qEKNVizy9Zut-84uWfDpMVH_2SrCcNIPM7nfE3Ako24O8BW1UeCiaIiEyBYU8Z-Tb1AhkW9qOJ8ioVWpl8BVXoKFE/s1600/IMG_9242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEGeYP-dbBIp9THyIOBeAdMQ3udzgKQSOvtohruz1Dv1dL_gINn3qEKNVizy9Zut-84uWfDpMVH_2SrCcNIPM7nfE3Ako24O8BW1UeCiaIiEyBYU8Z-Tb1AhkW9qOJ8ioVWpl8BVXoKFE/s320/IMG_9242.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spider monkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJSG1-4ORt8nkdYhyjnbEmqYLaVzM2fmAjqX3n6lR1rbBnaTQnPDu-J5lf_6Z8QhXHeAV_-20QEV4QOpeEP95WJdU2UOjpZlGFKC0PhzIrDAP-YcSB-kb_5WAeyfNTUg6YUfMapNqGzA/s1600/IMG_9243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJSG1-4ORt8nkdYhyjnbEmqYLaVzM2fmAjqX3n6lR1rbBnaTQnPDu-J5lf_6Z8QhXHeAV_-20QEV4QOpeEP95WJdU2UOjpZlGFKC0PhzIrDAP-YcSB-kb_5WAeyfNTUg6YUfMapNqGzA/s320/IMG_9243.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saddleback tamarind monkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHuGwhxJCe_BU3nNMu1tepDZDLqOjfJOwlyEEHrmCJJo9_-luZEqqTFc08knm4xOK0NZlS6ttQJY3L4rQFlU8YB4u6HMgFodYcrEvH2JQ3TEOFoljzA-aB-yYHOARJRdLvIKpi5tpOaM/s1600/IMG_9247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHuGwhxJCe_BU3nNMu1tepDZDLqOjfJOwlyEEHrmCJJo9_-luZEqqTFc08knm4xOK0NZlS6ttQJY3L4rQFlU8YB4u6HMgFodYcrEvH2JQ3TEOFoljzA-aB-yYHOARJRdLvIKpi5tpOaM/s320/IMG_9247.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red howler monkey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhST3OK8BBFou8Lsc1_uKfxh9-5vqryaOVMJQsn5jOV6gNcliZMr-MaKyWeapFkHTgqXhCyp1hE7GCXqh4AmiW6GFOMKibG79IPc-v_IdO_KiPtfXEfNGb4rij0DAg0iH7A21-7EfSyOk/s1600/IMG_9255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhST3OK8BBFou8Lsc1_uKfxh9-5vqryaOVMJQsn5jOV6gNcliZMr-MaKyWeapFkHTgqXhCyp1hE7GCXqh4AmiW6GFOMKibG79IPc-v_IdO_KiPtfXEfNGb4rij0DAg0iH7A21-7EfSyOk/s320/IMG_9255.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He was curious.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5REYkVCQap_h5KsgcnhlrdEXuNtVLS28zaXj_Zs7vRI-wwGf6nkTTrWNFI5jZa1nKASRNRPn3NjVZ90X8KZH_ilqGvMJyMK5_f5ceecB-iAcIn9zbmLX55_nBjkWUFbfMixWv6zDwzg/s1600/IMG_9228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP5REYkVCQap_h5KsgcnhlrdEXuNtVLS28zaXj_Zs7vRI-wwGf6nkTTrWNFI5jZa1nKASRNRPn3NjVZ90X8KZH_ilqGvMJyMK5_f5ceecB-iAcIn9zbmLX55_nBjkWUFbfMixWv6zDwzg/s320/IMG_9228.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were invited into this home for a meal.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
We visited a local family who invited us into their home for a meal. Beautiful and friendly family.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
And we fished for piranha.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7noLYa7yIL5IetVqSV82ubWoGLYTi7ABn3re37gtXjoPhOe6z5rmiMksdWbVOQi1W2Ap6FLitdod5NXQnFkQiZFKnQg_os4fQKFgxDgaVKGrVH6oBh1zERyA-eQatwKjmrvmzskJ7Bg/s1600/IMG_9293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7noLYa7yIL5IetVqSV82ubWoGLYTi7ABn3re37gtXjoPhOe6z5rmiMksdWbVOQi1W2Ap6FLitdod5NXQnFkQiZFKnQg_os4fQKFgxDgaVKGrVH6oBh1zERyA-eQatwKjmrvmzskJ7Bg/s320/IMG_9293.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-13172717081867399822015-11-29T20:22:00.001-06:002015-11-30T07:38:33.458-06:00Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia, ChileWe did the "W" trek through Torres del Paine National Park in Chile--the most famous and popular trek in Patagonia. We jumped off from the town of Punta Arenas, the southernmost point of Chile, near the southern tip of South America and far enough south to still hit us in the face with harsh conditions when we flew in from Santiago in early November. It was the beginning of Spring and the weather was still sketchy. We stepped off the plan in Punta Arenas into snowy, cold, windy weather.<br />
<br />
A good day to acclimate to the weather that would be facing us for the next seven days. After a day nosing around Punta Arenas we caught a bus into Torres del Paine National park and the heart of Patagonia. We made a brief stop at Milodon Cave, the site of the discovery of prehistoric evidence of extinct Paleozoic creatures. Our last stop before entering into the gorgeous and wild lands of Patagonia.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROIqAIb-gfCX3fsdTJMj0SX9QowIR6nxygbNx-kMOEBs3lVUHh8ywbIe0_OovYi3jnicDMZmyq3LLyiW6nrefi0yiXF4BBSaxzPWER07-1Q9KiqbazGjUv9-yO74wi7H1hA6Z3pyPmFA/s1600/Patagonia+2015-148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROIqAIb-gfCX3fsdTJMj0SX9QowIR6nxygbNx-kMOEBs3lVUHh8ywbIe0_OovYi3jnicDMZmyq3LLyiW6nrefi0yiXF4BBSaxzPWER07-1Q9KiqbazGjUv9-yO74wi7H1hA6Z3pyPmFA/s400/Patagonia+2015-148.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
And we quickly discovered how wild Patagonia really is when we sighted a healthy and stealthy <br />
puma loping along a gravel bar alongside a river. He didn't seem particularly surprised to see us and didn't seem too concerned that we were there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7-BDB_uopdZJ2jLqugFyiycECH_pOOkmzJ7EtXx0FOkSP-2WFgVaEnFihnbJFQS0fiJqz2-DRw_3rKP8r41hLMY5GUAIlZgACCZe80I8KoNtgNtXqC86apLARbM0UhrI7P-5T_r9qRM/s1600/Patagonia+2015-149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7-BDB_uopdZJ2jLqugFyiycECH_pOOkmzJ7EtXx0FOkSP-2WFgVaEnFihnbJFQS0fiJqz2-DRw_3rKP8r41hLMY5GUAIlZgACCZe80I8KoNtgNtXqC86apLARbM0UhrI7P-5T_r9qRM/s400/Patagonia+2015-149.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He didn't seem too interested in us. Guess we didn't look tasty.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJG9NHPLlmKFjrIdtsYkrvi95yi-0r6f0cOphfe83CsIa4LP2Bv-LlEZwSq2qnMj8D4oOFdg58-Z8Emllnmsau8sjEGfDfbouCG7V5CwbKjX1UwcrkuEl557_kadM5rOCab6ioaiX4pGU/s1600/Patagonia+2015-161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJG9NHPLlmKFjrIdtsYkrvi95yi-0r6f0cOphfe83CsIa4LP2Bv-LlEZwSq2qnMj8D4oOFdg58-Z8Emllnmsau8sjEGfDfbouCG7V5CwbKjX1UwcrkuEl557_kadM5rOCab6ioaiX4pGU/s400/Patagonia+2015-161.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EcoCamp with Torres del Paine in background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We checked into our cozy dome at EcoCamp, an environmentally friendly camp nestled under the watchful gaze of the three towers. I can't say enough about EcoCamp; the food was excellent, the sleeping was comfy, the scenery excellent plus it is designed to have minimal impact on the environment.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4NPN6AvYJUf0mgYvONl8WzCk67Wj_9PmAlylLsBx9BdnkErNesUhqMCAKgBNK5gjBjkPSKLF5z-bSpDCtPSevUnsF8XDpBcGEA2do2A9vaQRcomkhSWX5YYJ9grTGEKEZQgQDmwCOvE/s1600/Patagonia+2015-185.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia4NPN6AvYJUf0mgYvONl8WzCk67Wj_9PmAlylLsBx9BdnkErNesUhqMCAKgBNK5gjBjkPSKLF5z-bSpDCtPSevUnsF8XDpBcGEA2do2A9vaQRcomkhSWX5YYJ9grTGEKEZQgQDmwCOvE/s400/Patagonia+2015-185.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The next day we were up early to start our week-long trek. The first day was an easy intro; four hours of relaxed hiking along the edge of the glowing turquoise Lake Nordenskjold. We followed the Paso Los Cuernos trail below the Paine massif with the granite horns of the cuernos looming over us all day. A leisurely half day trek brought us to Refugio Los Cuernos. We made the mistake of telling our guide Alejandro that is was very easy and he suggested an extra hike after we reached camp. Our mistake. It turned into a grueling climb from the refugio to a summit 2100 feet up the mountain--brutal enough but we were trapped in high winds that slapped us back and forth on the mountain. After two killer hours we summited, had a quick rest and rushed back down the mountain to beat the darkness. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTvZHcuyOZ1BidCc4dNZfA04zH6p9v98vdWbHNO_7t6f-TuNfftkqjvWAHV2kgNv25Okdl1Hx5jZ9i5swWxapuDYku3NeAMD_iN2tXig14LqyzMhNiiT8RgG2vFSKJw86XQ476eVi2rA/s1600/Patagonia+2015-272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTvZHcuyOZ1BidCc4dNZfA04zH6p9v98vdWbHNO_7t6f-TuNfftkqjvWAHV2kgNv25Okdl1Hx5jZ9i5swWxapuDYku3NeAMD_iN2tXig14LqyzMhNiiT8RgG2vFSKJw86XQ476eVi2rA/s320/Patagonia+2015-272.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Site of the avalanche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Oh well, a warm up for the next day, a long tiring uphill hiked up French Valley. This was a long slow slog, with a quick stop at Camp Italiano before continuing up the valley to Mirador del Frances. Halfway up we heard a load and ominous rumbling of thunder--except it wasn't thunder, it was a massive avalanche, fortunately across the valley and we had an awesome views of a huge shelf of ice break away and rumble down the mountainside into the valley. After that show we continued up the valley to take in the view of the Frances glacier at the end of the valley. A challenging hike and we had to descend yet and make our way across low fields to our next overnight at Refugio Paine Grande, an easy flat hike but long and tiring and we were beat by the time we hit the refugio. Refugio Paine Grande is a dormitory style lodge and after a quick dinner and a couple of beers we tumbled into our beds in a shared room with another hiker from Brazil.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Day three was a short hike to Mirador Grey and Grey glacier. Short, but not easy. We were slammed in the face with powerful, gusty winds. Winds is too gentle a term. Were battled headwinds that would nearly (and in one case did) sweep you off your first. I have never encountered anything like it. <br />
<br />
Finally made it, caught a boat across Lago Grey and saw the most surreal blue glaciers ever. They seemed to be lit from some unnatural but beautiful light within, a breathtaking blue.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1O3_qXlr96h4OL3NqScstqhxVA4rpblTqskCN1rKXcb6vy4m9D0sP9WSMJBeUjKZcrJOY41DKlYsKOEWXiCBpncmxB1pPCWAHpKYbmRa01UilVL35n2UFrwsP4UjNI7wnD-6Jmrb1E_U/s1600/Patagonia+2015-350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1O3_qXlr96h4OL3NqScstqhxVA4rpblTqskCN1rKXcb6vy4m9D0sP9WSMJBeUjKZcrJOY41DKlYsKOEWXiCBpncmxB1pPCWAHpKYbmRa01UilVL35n2UFrwsP4UjNI7wnD-6Jmrb1E_U/s400/Patagonia+2015-350.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
It was well worth the tough hike.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizI1TqDxY3m5A2eXqB5BRGhYLl3r1N2h31axl_JhQyw-MPuAS-LwHqL5HkYzz_XBtDdVVLmxDXOLU0SUjnN6KEsAEItYkIABrojiT8HzBq9q6WryKyfD0KBVDu25Ty2Kf-FV1xOb7dqs0/s1600/Patagonia+2015-351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizI1TqDxY3m5A2eXqB5BRGhYLl3r1N2h31axl_JhQyw-MPuAS-LwHqL5HkYzz_XBtDdVVLmxDXOLU0SUjnN6KEsAEItYkIABrojiT8HzBq9q6WryKyfD0KBVDu25Ty2Kf-FV1xOb7dqs0/s400/Patagonia+2015-351.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drink and a toast with whiskey and glacier ice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
But we looked forward to the next day's trek--a hard hike of eight hours roundtrip up to the foot of </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUep-fQ9MRXw-meoyLqUG-afBaDuE1-JXwUQ5Wa-t31XrUi6Sdsbf5VBvXmlwXAy50I213fkZ_nlBzYCWfA8qPusHIU7OhP8A2JHh9xopwEBv3zx5BK8n7vLYrJ4Teu5n1Im0DCXIDv48/s1600/Patagonia+2015-387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUep-fQ9MRXw-meoyLqUG-afBaDuE1-JXwUQ5Wa-t31XrUi6Sdsbf5VBvXmlwXAy50I213fkZ_nlBzYCWfA8qPusHIU7OhP8A2JHh9xopwEBv3zx5BK8n7vLYrJ4Teu5n1Im0DCXIDv48/s400/Patagonia+2015-387.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
the granite spires of El Paine. A difficult hike through forest and then across a wide moraine field littered with large boulders. But Wow! what a view at the top. The three towers overlooking a glacier lake. Incredible.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcov75JFgR61zhwWJAyiv28HXqv9v2E53cmBCfFc-bOGXRBhCH-INrDaUZAjQtyAUAqDf7nvNI2zk-Rco_Ds3nbjXIPFfEyhrHcslIQImG3YPL19GS9gP7YoD0YVAYQIrPebc6Gg8niPY/s1600/Patagonia+2015-164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcov75JFgR61zhwWJAyiv28HXqv9v2E53cmBCfFc-bOGXRBhCH-INrDaUZAjQtyAUAqDf7nvNI2zk-Rco_Ds3nbjXIPFfEyhrHcslIQImG3YPL19GS9gP7YoD0YVAYQIrPebc6Gg8niPY/s320/Patagonia+2015-164.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Our last days were spent hiking the steppes around Mirador Laguna Azul, gawking at 6000 year old petroglyphs, herds of guanacos, Andean condors, breathtaking scenery and grasslands littered liberally with the skeletons and remains of guanacos--the result of predation by pumas. More skeletal animal remains than I have seen anywhere--including the Serengeti.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8xUQWND2e21NVZEKt3YfyEOxA9cK3XDSOT-ebYf0n1pM4yUSS4uNpI3lep7tUHcEO-InSakLqyf8bH1gZ-C_dO8Awz5zw5f3u8rD6a9jLTBPvle_yeoabHFoxk-FcP0XJvqNR71hJdI/s1600/Patagonia+2015-152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS8xUQWND2e21NVZEKt3YfyEOxA9cK3XDSOT-ebYf0n1pM4yUSS4uNpI3lep7tUHcEO-InSakLqyf8bH1gZ-C_dO8Awz5zw5f3u8rD6a9jLTBPvle_yeoabHFoxk-FcP0XJvqNR71hJdI/s320/Patagonia+2015-152.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Bottom line--on of the most beautiful places anywhere. Go.It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-41847477648322264782015-04-13T20:16:00.000-05:002015-04-13T20:17:10.430-05:00River Snorkeling in GeorgiaCheck out my short piece on Georgia river snorkeling in <strong>Blue Ridge Country</strong> magazine:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/leisure/brc_20150506/index.php?startid=19">http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/leisure/brc_20150506/index.php?startid=19</a><br />
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-32668687144762466342015-01-13T22:55:00.000-06:002015-01-13T22:56:11.944-06:00D-Day Anniversary<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWLdgRG8fKaNqJaKvvRXZzRNpSyl_9rTF7riJy-6cRNIeaaqwpfHoqPiDUICenTyH0ocZsiIV4gXyFdC5WRKEjjUjPfOzS20lrkHChMu-yScwjydSXFNmZAZPgEpanHSxSxXLyrDC2zY/s1600/999344_10201500636146780_1152345689_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWLdgRG8fKaNqJaKvvRXZzRNpSyl_9rTF7riJy-6cRNIeaaqwpfHoqPiDUICenTyH0ocZsiIV4gXyFdC5WRKEjjUjPfOzS20lrkHChMu-yScwjydSXFNmZAZPgEpanHSxSxXLyrDC2zY/s1600/999344_10201500636146780_1152345689_n.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
We were in Normandy for the D-Day anniversary and ran into this gentleman at Omaha Beach. Ninety years old now, he was a 21 year old sailor in the Royal Navy on D-Day and served on the HMS Prince Albert, offloading soldiers onto Sword Beach in the British sector. <br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzgUiwJP1Uohu46CEmNZujtYsgayaAcCh3DsbpfmSOpG6YLyNZYZD4WeoRFU5KEUeD2Yd7syarmKnStObGjGl5BfhzctxndBxwTmMAPSrUvi834k-qngMLG9OYczx3NMd4WkdpC4a7Vw/s1600/994496_10201500637226807_1967755494_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzgUiwJP1Uohu46CEmNZujtYsgayaAcCh3DsbpfmSOpG6YLyNZYZD4WeoRFU5KEUeD2Yd7syarmKnStObGjGl5BfhzctxndBxwTmMAPSrUvi834k-qngMLG9OYczx3NMd4WkdpC4a7Vw/s1600/994496_10201500637226807_1967755494_n.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It was a real thrill and a rare privilege to shake hands with a WWII D-Day veteran.<br />
<br />It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-810090747799821057.post-11893665640292240432014-09-23T21:25:00.000-05:002014-10-29T18:38:30.540-05:00How Hard is Climbing Kilimanjaro....Really?<span style="font-family: Calibri;">When I talk to people about my Kilimanjaro climb the first
thing they invariably ask is: How hard was it?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">No surprise there, when I first thought about climbing Mt
Kilimanjaro my concern was whether I could make the climb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did extensive research but there was so
much conflicting information out there that all it did was confuse me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would check a dozen blogs and websites and
get a dozen different takes on how difficult the climb actually is.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And even more infuriating was that most accounts were on the
extreme ends of the spectrum; either “a piece of cake” or “unbelievably
demanding”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also believe that many
people who make the summit tend to make it sound worse than it is to heighten
their success story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I finally threw up
my hands in frustration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Who could you
believe?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbeGlGR30W2N2kpxuDpQqpkTtxjhdYOkAwQ-hArbfGsaQsVu3Gbe8O0RsUgHoXgBo-6bnofMWxQLRLYmCQiAJACoL2w9CY0hWaRYKbf70sAuMFHUJdRD6_qRS2ZlKyDXJ4ED6uDGxv7Q/s1600/100_2870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbeGlGR30W2N2kpxuDpQqpkTtxjhdYOkAwQ-hArbfGsaQsVu3Gbe8O0RsUgHoXgBo-6bnofMWxQLRLYmCQiAJACoL2w9CY0hWaRYKbf70sAuMFHUJdRD6_qRS2ZlKyDXJ4ED6uDGxv7Q/s1600/100_2870.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Granted, everyone brings a different level of skill and
fitness to the table so how to determine the true answer?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What I discovered is that most people gave
their opinion without any frame of reference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>How old are they?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did they
train?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How long and how hard?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Are they a marathon runner or a step above
couch potato?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A little background would
be of tremendous help.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So let me do that for you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Let me tell you about my background, preparation and other details that
will hopefully provide you with a baseline to do a comparison of your
particular situation and make an intelligent determination of your chances of
success. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">First of all, you’re probably wondering how many people who
actually attempt the summit are successful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You would think that would be an easy answer to find but unfortunately
the web is a veritable storehouse of misinformation, conflicting data and
success rates that are skewed to favor certain routes and tour companies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many companies boast success rates upwards of
80-90%.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I initially took these to be
accurate but the more I checked it became obvious that a lot of tour companies
inflate the percentages in order to not discourage potential clients.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There are actually three points on Kilimanjaro that are
loosely and commonly considered to be the summit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The three points are Gillman’s Point, Stella
Point and Uhuru Peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only Uhuru, at
5895 meters, is the true summit but some climbers make it to Gillman’s or
Stella and can’t make it further.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you
reach either Gillman’s or Stella you will still be issued a climbing
certificate from Kilimanjaro National Park (KINAPA) but these are NOT the true
summit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is another 300 meters from
Gillman’s to Uhuru and 200 meters from Stella—which doesn’t sound like much but
is a grueling trek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, again to
boost their success rates, most tour companies count these as summit successes
since a certificate is awarded.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After some digging I found a published success rate from
Kilimanjaro National Park of 45%.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
consider this an accurate figure since KINAPA has no reason to pump up the
success rate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In other words, take
claimed success rates with a grain of salt—and if you are talking to someone
who claims to have summited Kili ask them if they made it all the way to Uhuru
Peak.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">OK, now we have that out of the way let's get to the original question: How hard is the
climb?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To answer that for you let me
break my answer down into two areas; personal physical shape and mountain
difficulty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">First the personal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I said earlier I will give you an idea of my specific situation and
hopefully it will give you a starting point to assess your situation vis-a-vis
mine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was 62 years old when I climbed
Kili.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Old for a climber.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I checked the entry logs at the campsites and
for the three weeks prior to my climb only one person older than me signed in
and he was 78 years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having said
that I am in excellent physical shape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
am very active and have hiked, biked, canoed, backpacked and otherwise been
active my entire life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Six months before
my climb I started a dedicated training regime of hiking, running and gym
training.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ran a couple of 5Ks and a
half marathon (my first) during that time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I ran, hiked or hit the gym at least four days per week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ran the half marathon four months prior to
the climb and after that I did very little running, mostly hiking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My hikes were 8-, 10- and 12-milers, often
while carrying a fifteen pound pack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
also ran the steps (with full pack) at a nearby high school football
stadium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My gym work was largely
treadmill and stairmaster although I did some upper body work on chest and
shoulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally, three weeks before
we left for Tanzania, we went to Great Smoky Mountains National Park to do some
“altitude” hiking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did three
consecutive summits of Mt. LeConte (up and down) in three days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I live in Alabama and Mt. LeConte is only
6500 feet but it was our only option in the Southeast.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As you can see, I prepped well. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt good about my physical fitness, the
only unknown was what effect the altitude would have. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was dedicated to getting in shape, part of
this was due to my age which caused me to have some doubts as to whether I
could summit. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you are in your 20s or
30s or 40s you have an edge on me and could probably get by with a less
dedicated program.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still, don’t
underestimate the mountain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Which is a nice segue to the second area: the difficulty of
the mountain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did a six day
trek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t recommend the shorter
5-day trips which give your body less time to acclimate to the altitude. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is four days to base camp, fifth day to
summit, sixth day down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is no
comparison between the four days to base camp portion and summit day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was pleasantly surprised with the four day
climb to base camp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While it was
strenuous, it was not as bad as I feared.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I attribute this to my training.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The days are long and constant and unrelentingly upward, upward, upward
but definitely achievable by anyone in good shape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As you go up each day you will start feeling the effects of
altitude.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two significant side effects are
insomnia and lack of appetite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took
Tylenol PM to help me sleep but still got very little sleep and spent every
night tossing and turning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Worse, even
though our tour company provided plentiful and delicious meals we were able
to eat hardly anything.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Although t<span style="font-family: Calibri;">he hike to base camp was easier than I expected summit
day was another story. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You will begin
your summit assault at midnight after having spent a large part of that day
hiking to base camp so you are already tired.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The darkness, altitude (base camp is at 15,400 feet) and cold are all
disorienting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You will set off in total
darkness with only the light from your headlamp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From base camp the mountain flank is steep
and consists of loose scree (slippery rocks).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And did I mention it is cold?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You
will be wearing heavy gear to further limit your movement.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I will tell you frankly, the summit climb is brutal and was
as difficult as I had feared in my worst dreams. The altitude effects can be daunting—headaches and nausea, lack of oxygen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The goal is to summit by dawn to see the
dazzling sunrise over Africa so there is little time to dawdle which means a
steady, brisk pace and little time for rest stops. Our first rest stop was
Williams Point and I still felt OK but by our second stop at Hans Meyer Cave I
was struggling and seriously thought I would have to turn back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was only the first of many times I
considered giving up and going back to base camp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I became increasingly tired and we would stop
and gasp for breath every few steps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
scree complicated the climb—for every three steps up it seemed we slid one
down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An area called Jamaica Rocks was
particularly difficult, picking traverses back and forth through this steep
rocky stretch. Still, just persevere, keep on walking and it is doable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">By the time we made it to Gillman’s Point I was totally
exhausted, gasping for air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
mistake to think you have an easy go from Gillman’s to Uhuru—it was another two
hours of grueling climbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I should
mention that we took Diamox, a prescription altitude drug and we felt that it
helped us deal with the altitude. Frankly, from Gillman’s to Uhuru, I was on
autopilot, my brain fuzzy.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieguPVRgU5__AxxryTx4oF8WC5qVIm4n6HQE-LVQiJB_w31PdRVfByzI-pCNf4Dz0vUn0b39t_eZj4YALBRmMjq-vyqRrnbYHcDf9ynjv5JwWVuo16nWHQQKEV8fVxuS3YjHYWxhpV2C0/s1600/10356146_10204254508031856_6938960734587976041_n%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieguPVRgU5__AxxryTx4oF8WC5qVIm4n6HQE-LVQiJB_w31PdRVfByzI-pCNf4Dz0vUn0b39t_eZj4YALBRmMjq-vyqRrnbYHcDf9ynjv5JwWVuo16nWHQQKEV8fVxuS3YjHYWxhpV2C0/s1600/10356146_10204254508031856_6938960734587976041_n%5B1%5D.jpg" height="400" width="290" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But we made it—and you can too!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Reading back over this it sounds brutal—and
it is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, it is a physical challenge
that you need to train for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can’t do
the climb on a whim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it is mostly
mental.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Don’t give up, persevere and you
will have your picture at Uhuru Peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is the trip of a lifetime and while I would not do it again under any
circumstances, it was a huge achievement and I will be proud of it for the rest
of my life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 8pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
It all started with a canoe.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06982019528749876191noreply@blogger.com0