Hard against the western edge of
Tennessee along the flat floodplain of the Mississippi River, lies a pocket of
water which in appearance has more in common with the sloughs and backwaters of
the deep south than the western reaches of the Cumberland region.
This out‑of‑place body of water is
not only an anomaly in its location but also in the way it was formed. In the winter of 1811‑1812, a massive
earthquake hit the western Tennessee region, along the New Madrid
faultline. According to historical
reports, witnesses saw the water flow out of the Mississippi backward in a
great wall for three days and three nights.
A large area of land sank and the surrounding land was thrust upward,
the backwards‑rushing waters of the Mississippi filling in to form a separate
body of water, a broad shallow lake. The
Indians who inhabited the region called this lake Reelfoot, after the club‑footed
son of the local Indian chief.
The shallow waters of Reelfoot Lake
were conducive to plants and animals more commonly found in the bayous and
sloughs of the south and the lake gradually evolved into a botanical island of
cypress and lily pads. Surrounded by
thousands of acres of rich bottomland forests and situated along the
Mississippi flyway, Reelfoot became a major stopover for ducks and other
waterfowl on their annual migrations.
Frontiersman Davy Crockett called Reelfoot his favorite hunting grounds.
The attractions of Reelfoot to
wildlife continue to this day and the Reelfoot National Wildlife Refuge
provides habitat for deer, beaver, coyote, great blue herons, and osprey. The lake is a temporary home to thousands of
Canada Geese, mallards, widgeons, gadwalls, and other waterfowl every fall as
they head south for the winter. In a
typical season up to half a million ducks and 150,000 geese are concentrated at
Reelfoot. A respectable population of
bald eagles is also present on the lake and can be easily spotted from the
water and banks.
The lake looks like a giant letter
"W" from the air, four large basins set in a gentle curve among the
surrounding farmland. The largest two
basins form the majority of the lake, with two smaller bodies of water, Buzzard
Slough and Upper Blue Basin, finishing the "W" with a flourish on the
end. Buzzard Slough and Upper Blue Basin
are reached by short ditches connecting the waterways, not much more than a
boat’s-width wide and crowded on both sides by cattails and lily pads.
For nature lovers, Reelfoot is a
veritable paradise. The lake is fourteen
miles long and covers more than 15,000 acres, a patchwork of wide expanses of
open water with large groves of cypress growing out of the lake surface. These thick cypress groves give Reelfoot that
"swampy" feel. Tall cypress
trees and their knobby roots, or knees, protrude from the lake, providing prime
habitat for waterfowl and fish. From
shore the lake looks like a vast green prairie amidst a profusion of huge
cypress trees. Narrow trails of water connect
small pools of dark water and large open areas of lake dominate some areas. But venturing in a boat into this swamp
reveals an even more beautiful sight.
The flat green carpet takes form in a tangle of large lily pads, some
two feet across. Towering over the
lilies stand cattails, their syrupy brown stalks rising above our heads Boating
among the towering cypress, with the pure white and starling yellow water
lilies in spring bloom, is enchanting.
Reelfoot is regionally famous for its crappie,
bream, and largemouth bass fishing, the prime season being early spring when the
crappie begin their spawning runs. The
area teems with fishing enthusiasts, particularly in the spring and fall, and a
large support industry of fishing camps, motels, cottages, and restaurants has
sprung up around the lake to provide services to fishermen and other outdoorsy
types.
Fishing is not the only attraction
of Reelfoot. A small but growing
contingent of bald eagles also makes the lake home during the winter
months. Eagle-watching trips are a prime
attraction during the winter months and are increasing in popularity. Reelfoot Lake State Park, located on the
lake’s shore, offers eagle tours from December through February. Park naturalists will take you on a guided
expedition to glimpse the birds and fill you in on their history and habits. If you prefer to go it alone, the wildlife
refuge offers a visitor center that will give you directions on best areas to
view eagles. The refuge has two
observation towers hiking trails and the option of a driving tour through the
Grassy Island area. If you’re lucky you
might spot a white-tailed deer or wild turkey.
This is not a wilderness lake. The shoreline is dotted with fishing camps
and private cabins. Boat docks extend
out into the lake at frequent intervals and there are motels and restaurants
along the roads skirting the lake. The
attractions are waterfowl hunting, fishing, and birdwatching. The best way to experience Reelfoot is by
staying in one of the many motels or fishing cabins sprinkled around the lake’s
edges and spending the days on the lake fishing or enjoying the natural
surroundings. Many of the lodges and
camps offer inexpensive packages which include the use of a boat with
lodging. Numerous restaurants in the
area offer hearty all-you-can-eat meals.
Notable among these are Boyette’s and the Blue Bank. Both offer excellent lightly breaded catfish,
country ham, and all the fixings. Enough
to satisfy the heartiest appetite after a day out in the sun and wind.
For information contact the
Reelfoot Lake Tourist Council, 901-538-2666 or Reelfoot Lake State Park,
901-253-7756
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