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Saturday, April 18, 2020

Reelfoot Lake Tennessee


Hard against the western edge of Tennessee along the flat floodplain of the Mississippi River, lies a pocket of water which in appearance has more in common with the sloughs and backwaters of the deep south than the western reaches of the Cumberland region.
This out‑of‑place body of water is not only an anomaly in its location but also in the way it was formed.  In the winter of 1811‑1812, a massive earthquake hit the western Tennessee region, along the New Madrid faultline.  According to historical reports, witnesses saw the water flow out of the Mississippi backward in a great wall for three days and three nights.  A large area of land sank and the surrounding land was thrust upward, the backwards‑rushing waters of the Mississippi filling in to form a separate body of water, a broad shallow lake.  The Indians who inhabited the region called this lake Reelfoot, after the club‑footed son of the local Indian chief.

The shallow waters of Reelfoot Lake were conducive to plants and animals more commonly found in the bayous and sloughs of the south and the lake gradually evolved into a botanical island of cypress and lily pads.  Surrounded by thousands of acres of rich bottomland forests and situated along the Mississippi flyway, Reelfoot became a major stopover for ducks and other waterfowl on their annual migrations.  Frontiersman Davy Crockett called Reelfoot his favorite hunting grounds.
The attractions of Reelfoot to wildlife continue to this day and the Reelfoot National Wildlife Refuge provides habitat for deer, beaver, coyote, great blue herons, and osprey.   The lake is a temporary home to thousands of Canada Geese, mallards, widgeons, gadwalls, and other waterfowl every fall as they head south for the winter.  In a typical season up to half a million ducks and 150,000 geese are concentrated at Reelfoot.  A respectable population of bald eagles is also present on the lake and can be easily spotted from the water and banks.


The lake looks like a giant letter "W" from the air, four large basins set in a gentle curve among the surrounding farmland.  The largest two basins form the majority of the lake, with two smaller bodies of water, Buzzard Slough and Upper Blue Basin, finishing the "W" with a flourish on the end.  Buzzard Slough and Upper Blue Basin are reached by short ditches connecting the waterways, not much more than a boat’s-width wide and crowded on both sides by cattails and lily pads.
For nature lovers, Reelfoot is a veritable paradise.  The lake is fourteen miles long and covers more than 15,000 acres, a patchwork of wide expanses of open water with large groves of cypress growing out of the lake surface.  These thick cypress groves give Reelfoot that "swampy" feel.  Tall cypress trees and their knobby roots, or knees, protrude from the lake, providing prime habitat for waterfowl and fish.  From shore the lake looks like a vast green prairie amidst a profusion of huge cypress trees.  Narrow trails of water connect small pools of dark water and large open areas of lake dominate some areas.  But venturing in a boat into this swamp reveals an even more beautiful sight.  The flat green carpet takes form in a tangle of large lily pads, some two feet across.  Towering over the lilies stand cattails, their syrupy brown stalks rising above our heads Boating among the towering cypress, with the pure white and starling yellow water lilies in spring bloom, is enchanting. 
 Reelfoot is regionally famous for its crappie, bream, and largemouth bass fishing, the prime season being early spring when the crappie begin their spawning runs.  The area teems with fishing enthusiasts, particularly in the spring and fall, and a large support industry of fishing camps, motels, cottages, and restaurants has sprung up around the lake to provide services to fishermen and other outdoorsy types.


Fishing is not the only attraction of Reelfoot.  A small but growing contingent of bald eagles also makes the lake home during the winter months.  Eagle-watching trips are a prime attraction during the winter months and are increasing in popularity.  Reelfoot Lake State Park, located on the lake’s shore, offers eagle tours from December through February.  Park naturalists will take you on a guided expedition to glimpse the birds and fill you in on their history and habits.    If you prefer to go it alone, the wildlife refuge offers a visitor center that will give you directions on best areas to view eagles.  The refuge has two observation towers hiking trails and the option of a driving tour through the Grassy Island area.  If you’re lucky you might spot a white-tailed deer or wild turkey.




This is not a wilderness lake.  The shoreline is dotted with fishing camps and private cabins.  Boat docks extend out into the lake at frequent intervals and there are motels and restaurants along the roads skirting the lake.  The attractions are waterfowl hunting, fishing, and birdwatching.  The best way to experience Reelfoot is by staying in one of the many motels or fishing cabins sprinkled around the lake’s edges and spending the days on the lake fishing or enjoying the natural surroundings.  Many of the lodges and camps offer inexpensive packages which include the use of a boat with lodging.  Numerous restaurants in the area offer hearty all-you-can-eat meals.  Notable among these are Boyette’s and the Blue Bank.  Both offer excellent lightly breaded catfish, country ham, and all the fixings.  Enough to satisfy the heartiest appetite after a day out in the sun and wind. 
For information contact the Reelfoot Lake Tourist Council, 901-538-2666 or Reelfoot Lake State Park, 901-253-7756


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