Vietnam

"Thin country, thin houses, thin people".  That's how our guide Anh described Vietnam.  If you look at a map of Vietnam you'll see that it is indeed long and thin.  The people are also thin and the houses are built with narrow street fronts because they are taxed on the amount of street frontage.  The "long" (Vietnam is over 1000 miles from north to south) is a great asset in terms of terrain and variety.  The southern part includes the Mekong River Delta and lowland jungle, the northern part encompasses the Red River Delta. Somewhere in between lies the Central Highlands.  With so much variety what to pick?  We opted for the Central Highlands and were not disappointed.

We hopped a flight into Hanoi out of Sandakan in Borneo and landed in a modern bustling city alive with nightlife, traffic and gleaming buildings. Did I mention traffic?  Exploring central Hanoi on foot is taking your life in your hands.  The SOP is to cross streets at a steady pace and to a large extent depend on oncoming traffic not to kill you.  Never hesitate, never run.  A steady pace across a multi-lane street, while hair-raising, is the key. Keeping an eye on oncoming cars and scooters while traversing s busy thoroughfare is a life-altering experience.

Inside
"Hanoi Hilton"  Hoa Lo Prison

We lodged in the Old Quarter, in the heart of the historic part of Hanoi, an exciting mixture of ancient temples, French architecture in buildings and houses and modern hotels, bars and restaurants.  Our first stop was Hoan Kiem Lake and picturesque Ngoc Son Temple, located in the middle of the lake. A leisurely stop for famous egg coffee and on to Hoa Lo Prison, the infamous "Hanoi Hilton" where American POWs, including Senator John McCain, were held during the Vietnam War.  To the victors go the spoils I guess because the history presented here is one of American imperial aggression and the bulk of the history addresses the French colonial mistreatment of Vietnamese nationals.  The few kiosks that address American prisoners present a pleasant picture of Christmas trees and contentment.

Deeper into the city we come upon Huu Tiep Lake, better known now as "B-52 Lake" where the wreckage of an American B-52 bomber is visible, a grim reminder of the bombing that took place here in 1973.  Our last stop is the Hanoi railroad tracks where an active railway slcies through the city with houses and shops mere yards on both sides of the tracks.

Hanoi street scene

 
 

B-52 wreckage in Huu Tiep Lake

"B-52 Café"

The railroad tracks through the heart of the city

Enough of the city, we came to trek through the countryside so onto Hoa Binh and Mai Chau where we revel in the local ethnic dishes of the "White Thai", delicious local food with a spicy flair.  We grab bicycles and pedal through the countryside and spend the day biking through a series of local villages in an idyllic setting of terraced rice fields.  In September when we are there the rice is lush and gorgeous, the deep green terraces set against wisps of silky mist wreathing the mountains with a clear blue sky.  Breathtaking.

Jungle trekking

We move on to Pu Luong Nature Reserve and trek through the rice paddies and jungles hillsides,  Steep climbs and stream crossings are the menu for the trek and we head off into the remote countryside. Locals go about their day, cultivating by had their rice crop, fish farming, tilling fields, weaving and cooking.  I love this part of the trip, away from the city, crowds and tourist areas.

Ninh Binh is our next destination, and Hoa Lu, the former capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries and Mua Cave and the view of the landscape from the peak above--a 500 step trek up the staircase to the altar atop the peak.

Hoa Lu

View of the valley atop the peak

Our last stop is a Halong Bay, truly on of the most beautiful spots in Vietnam.  The dome shaped islands sprinkled among the crystal waters are incredible. and after a cruise, swimming in the bay, fishing and kayaking we watch a last sunset in Vietnam, the orange glow disappearing and gently replaced by a slow rising full moon, a simply enchanting sight. An incredible end to an adventure trek through this gorgeous country.

Goodbye Vietnam