Let's
try a little geographic word association.
I'll give you a
subject and you tell me the first location that comes to mind. If I say whitewater
rafting, odds are you
will think immediately of the Snake, Green, Colorado, or Salmon rivers.
Why? Because serious whitewater rafting in this country
has become almost synonymous with the famous wild rivers of the West and any
conversation about rafting inevitably segues into tales invoking the almost
mystical names of a number of famous American rafting rivers, all of which are
located well west of America's
heartland. The popular image of rafting
invokes scenes of brightly colored rubber rafts being tossed about on the raging, mocha roil of an
isolated wild river in the rugged canyon lands of Colorado, Utah, Idaho, or
Arizona. The western states are the
mecca of whitewater rafting in this country, and indeed the level of challenge
and danger offered by the many whitewater hot spots out West is hard to match.
But for those of us who live east
of the Mississippi, there are adrenalin pumping rivers in the mountains of the
Southeast that produce heart thumping rides cheaper and much closer to
home. While these rivers may lack the
continuous Ohmigod‑I'm‑going‑to‑die heart stopping excitement of the wilder
western rivers, there are some advantages to the whitewater rivers of the
Southeast that the western rivers cannot match: there are usually no waiting
lists to raft them, they are all within easy driving distance of most of the
eastern population centers, and they are much cheaper to run than their western
counterparts.
In fact, there are five exciting
whitewater rivers in the Southeast that are all closer together than the drive
between any three of those western rivers mentioned earlier. It is possible to raft all five of these
rivers in one week, taking time off in between to relax and soak up the local
scenery. Try that out West. So if you think you have to spend a week of
hard earned vacation time and a month's
salary to run one western river, quintuple your whitewater exposure with these
five southeastern rivers, which you can easily raft in a week, with time left
for plenty of R&R.
Let's start your week‑long
marathon:
Sunday, Tennessee,
Ocoee River. Forty five minutes
northeast of Chattanooga and just east of Cleveland, Tennessee near Interstate
75 sits the opening act. The Ocoee is a
dam‑controlled river, runnable Thursday through Monday in the summers and on
weekends during the spring and fall, and the first two weeks of October. Site of the 1996 Olympic whitewater venue,
the Ocoee is a good warm-up river for your week of whitewater.
This is a short run‑‑only five
miles, but the drops come quickly with little time to recover in between, so be
ready for almost continuous whitewater beginning with Put In rapid, just below
the low dam at the launch point. This is
a long Class III rapid, a good initial baptism for your week of whitewater
fun. Broken Nose, the next rapid, comes
up almost immediately, followed by Double Suck which features two large keeper
hydraulics and Double Trouble with back-to-back standing waves. Between these two rapids is Hell's Half Mile, a stretch of
continuous Class II and III whitewater.
Next comes Flipper requiring some quick maneuvering: listen to your
guide for directions. The best is yet to
come: Table Saw and Diamond Splitter are both Class III to IV drops separated
by less than a half mile of churning water.
The final drops, Hell Hole and Powerhouse Ledge, are also the best. If you're not completely soaked before Hell
Hole, the standing wave is guaranteed to soak you. Jump out below the power plant that sits on
the left bank just after the Ledge and take a swim in the calm pool before you
haul your raft out a quarter mile downstream.
You=ll see lots
of inexperienced rafters on the Ocoee; don=t
let that bother you. Although the local
caulkers may smirk at the unwashed masses bobbing by in rafts, you have the
comfort of knowing that this first day of your week long odyssey is a warm up
for a trip that will offer better waves than they are playing.
The Ocoee initiation takes less
than half a day. Grab a hot shower and
head your car east on Highway 64 to Bryson City, North Carolina and take a look
at the Nantahala River, a canoeing and kayaking hot spot for southeastern
kayakers and canoeists. Check in at the
Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), perched between Highway 19 and the Nantahala
River, and grab a room and a hot meal at the Nantahala Village, part of the NOC
complex.
Monday, North Carolina,
Nantahala River. OK, so the title of
this article is "Five
Southeast Rafting Classics." I'm
throwing in the Nantahala as a bonus.
Sue me. A little too tame for
rafting, the Nantahala will give you a chance to hone your paddling skills so
after watching the local kayak experts negotiate Class III Nantahala Falls,
rent a kayak and give the Class II water of the Nantahala a try. Play in the water for as long as you want,
after all you're on
vacation. You'll have most of the day here to practice your
rolls and surf the waves; your next stop is only a few miles down Highway 441
at Clayton, GA. Four miles north of
Clayton, camp at one of the twelve walk‑in sites at Black Rock Mountain State
Park.
Sit around the campfire telling scary tales involving murderous
moonshiners to get in the proper mood for:
Tuesday, Georgia,
Chattooga River. Everybody knows the
Chattooga's claim to fame: the river where Ned Beatty squealed like a pig in Deliverance. A federally designated Wild and Scenic River,
it is also renowned for its primitive beauty.
Originating in the mountains of North Carolina, the Chattooga actually
flows between South Carolina and Georgia and offers two options: Section Three
with the Class IV Bull Sluice rapids and some calm water stretches, and the
more challenging seven miles of Section Four.
Don't waste
your time on Section Three. The
Chattooga demands a lot from you.
Perhaps the most technically challenging of the five rivers you'll raft this week, the
Chattooga requires constant attention to avoid flipping in its twisting
chutes. Section Four starts off with
the most dangerous rapid, Woodall Shoals, a ledge which forms a massive keeper
that can grab and hold boats (and people).
Below Woodall Shoals, the river narrows into a series of steep drops and
impressive rapids, leading into Seven Foot Falls. Seven Foot is best described as vertical and
if you are not the lead raft, you will understand why as the raft in front of
you drops out of sight over the edge. As
a climax, Five Falls blasts you with one Class III and four Class V rapids in a
quarter mile section before flushing you out on the other side, wet, tired and
exhilarated. A maze of huge rocks, the
Chattooga will pinball your raft from one rapid to the next. Your tent awaits you back at Black Mountain
so warm yourself by the campfire and get a good night's sleep. Tomorrow: road trip.
Wednesday, en route
to West Virginia. You had a day to
rest in the Smokies and a good night's sleep, so let's hit it.
Pull on those dry baggies, a T‑shirt, and some sandals, unwrap a Moon
Pie and down an RC Cola (you're in the South remember) and head east on Highway
76 and Interstate 85 to Charlotte. At
Charlotte follow Interstate 77 north all the way to Beckley, West
Virginia. This six-hour drive takes you
through some of the prettiest scenery east of the Rockies, starting with the
mountains and foothills of the Piedmont region of the Carolinas. After you cross the North Carolina‑Virginia
border you will drive through the Blue Ridge Mountains and notice the land
becoming more mountainous. When you hit
West Virginia, you will find yourself in the midst of the Appalachians. Take Highway 19 out of Beckley through the
mountains to Hawk's Nest State Park where you've made reservations at least
three months in advance at the Hawk's Nest Lodge (800‑225‑5982). Feed your face in the lodge's dining room and
take a short evening hike on the park's scenic trails to get the blood flowing
back to your butt. Tumble into bed with
a full belly and dreams of:
Thursday, West
Virginia, New River. The New River
offers both exciting whitewater and spectacular scenery. This river pounds through the New River
Gorge, a 1000-foot deep canyon of intensely beautiful wilderness and the oldest
river in North America. You'll get a
glimpse of the New River Bridge, the
longest arch bridge in the world. If you
time your trip for October's
Bridge Day, you can watch the crazies jump (with parachutes of course) from the
900-foot high bridge span. Do yourself a
favor; limit your thrills to the water.
And get ready for some wild stuff: the 15‑mile section of the Lower New
running from Thurmond to Fayette Station offers some of the most exciting
whitewater in the East. The Lower New
has five Class V runs: the Keeney's, Double Z, Greyhound Bus Stopper, Miller's
Folly, and Fayette Station. This river
is a step above the two you=ve
rafted so far and you'll know it about the time you hit the Keeney's, a
turbulent drop that is often obscured by veils of mist rising from the boiling
water. Churning through a narrow slot
of huge boulders, this is the longest river trip so far, with the run taking
about 5‑6 hours. And those are not
relaxing hours; almost constant paddling is required to run the New.
The next river is just down the
road so head back to the Hawk's Nest where you can relive the day's adventures
in front of the lodge's blazing stone fireplace. Tomorrow is the headliner: the Upper Gauley.
Friday, West
Virginia, Upper Gauley River. This
is the one you've been waiting for, the most challenging river of the
week. This thirteen-mile section of the
Gauley is best run for about three weeks in September and October when the
Corps of Engineers releases water from behind Summersville Lake upstream. Like the New, the Gauley is a visual delight
beginning with an unforgettably scenic backdrop as you launch your raft. Three house‑sized outlet pipes shoot
horizontal flumes of water from the base of Summersville Dam, enveloping the
entire area in a continuous mist. A deep
thunderous rumble accompanies the foaming water raging below the dam. From the moment you launch your raft, you are
caught in this maelstrom. High
sandstone cliffs covered with thick forests line the river nearly the whole
length, lending a feeling of wilderness isolation. But the main attraction is the water, not the
scenery: six violent Class V rapids and a generous helping of Class III and IV
water make this the most awesome run yet.
The first two Class V's, Bud's Boner and Insignificant, prep you for the
even more punishing water of Pillow Rock and Lost Paddle Rapids. Pillow plunges between truck‑sized boulders
and just when you think you're through with the rapids, Volkswagen Rock waits
to pound you one last time. Lost Paddle
is 1500 feet of Class V waves. Two more
big runs, Shipwreck and Iron Ring (Class V), keep the adrenalin rushing until
you reach Sweet's Falls, the highlight of the trip. Sweet's drops 14 feet into a churning vortex
that usually manages to overturn rafts or eject passengers. If you make it through Sweet=s, just below you will be
greeted by the Crack of Doom which will toothpaste-squeeze you through a narrow
defile between two towering rocks.
Alternately, a huge boulder called Postage Stamp slams those
unfortunates who paddle just a little bit too far left. Some choice.
If you dump at Sweet=s,
you will have an extra measure of humiliation added to your terror: this is a
popular lunch stop and the crowd is always spoiling for a spectacular
mishap. The first sound that will reach
your ears should you lose it at Sweet=s
will be the hooting guffaws of the lunch bunch.
No sympathy for losers here. The
last Class V, Woods Ferry, provides an exciting climax to the Upper Gauley. This is an exhausting four to five-hour
run. Ride your shuttle bus back and, if
your raft company is one of many on the Upper Gauley who video your run, watch
yourself getting pummeled on TV. Then
head an hour north on Highway 19 and Interstate 79 and stop at Stonewall
Jackson Lake State Park where you'll camp for the night and get ready for the
climax of your trip.
Saturday, Maryland,
Upper Youghiogheny River. Get up
early and continue north on Interstate 79 to Highway 48 and follow it east to
Friendsville, MD. The Upper Yough is a
whitewater bonanza, an exciting river nestled in the hills of extreme western
Maryland and offering breathtaking drops through boulder‑strewn rapids. The Upper Yough offers Class IV water with a
few rough Class V's thrown in for good measure.
Just to give you an idea of the violent nature of the Yough's big water,
the river drops an average of 116 feet per mile, and these feet show up as
precipitous drops in more than 20 Class IV and V rapids like Meat Cleaver,
National Falls, Charlie's Choice, and Tommy's Hole. The Yough offers eleven miles of powerful and
careening rapids, approaching the excitement of your previous day's experience
on the Gauley.
Alright, you've run five rivers in
six days, and driven through seven states.
You've seen beautiful scenery ranging from the pine forests of Georgia
to the steep hardwood‑forested mountains of Maryland, experienced world class
whitewater, had a day for a leisurely kayak run or a hike through the Smokies,
and still have a day left to get home.
You missed that expensive and cramped airplane flight, or worse yet, a
three-day drive across Kansas, and you didn't spend your next six months of car
payments so you'll have some bucks next year to hit some of the other great
rivers of the East you missed this year: the Nolichucky, Russell Fork, Cheat,
or Tygart. Besides all that, they don't
even know what Moon Pies are out West.
CONTACTS
In the Southeast, the best river
running is in the Spring and Fall, and the Gauley offers the best whitewater in
September and October, so plan your trip accordingly. All five rivers are serviced by rafting
companies offering guided and completely outfitted runs, so all you need to
show up with are the clothes on your back and no fear of getting wet. Each raft comes fully equipped with an
experienced guide, a feature you will come to appreciate. One thing that quickly becomes apparent is
that while the water may not be as big on eastern rivers, the technical
challenge is often greater. Eastern
rivers tend to be rockier and more constricted and convoluted than their
western counterparts, requiring more maneuvering and quicker paddling
moves. Consequently, your level of
involvement is greater and you will find yourself constantly responding to the
shouted directions of your guide over the din of the rapids.
A number of rafting companies offer
services on these rivers and it would be impossible to list them all. The Gauley and Ocoee, for instance, are
serviced by dozens of companies. Partial
listings of companies and prices follow.
Local Chambers of Commerce can provide names of additional companies
serving the rivers.
On the Ocoee, contact USA Raft,
P.O. Box 277, Rowlesburg, WV 26425, 800‑USA‑RAFT,
or Sunburst Adventures, Inc., P.O. Box 329‑B, Benton, TN 37307, 800‑247‑8388. USA Raft also runs the New and the Gauley.
Mountain River Tours, Sunday Road,
P.O. Box 88, Hico, WV 25854, 800‑822‑1386, and Appalachian Wildwaters, Inc.,
P.O. Box 100, Rowlesburg, WV 26425, 800‑624‑8060, run both the New and the
Gauley. Appalachian Wildwaters also runs
the upper Yough, as does Precision Rafting, P.O. Box 185, Friendsville, MD
21531, 800‑4‑PRE‑RAF.
Chattooga trips are provided by the
Nantahala Outdoor Center, 13077 Highway 19 West, Bryson City, NC 28713, 800‑232‑7238.
The Best of the Rest
If nothing else, the Southeast
offers the whitewater enthusiast incredible variety. Many more rivers in the area offer
opportunities for rafting and world class kayaking and canoeing. Some additional wildwater runs include:
Cheat River. Located in northern West Virginia, near the
Pennsylvania border, the Cheat is serviced by a limited number of
outfitters. The Cheat is dam free and is
heavily dependent on rainfall to generate enough flow for an exciting run. Conditions are usually favorable for only a
couple of weeks in the Spring, so be prepared for any conditions. Offering eleven miles of Class IV-V rapids
through the gorgeous Cheat Canyon, the seven hour run through rapids such Big Nasty and Even Nastier is a nice season-opener
for eastern river rats.
Tygart River. Next door neighbor to the Cheat, the Tygart
is a short but exhilarating six mile ride.
Known for extreme fluctuations in water level due to unpredictable rains
and the extremely constricted surrounding valley, the Tygart is, like the
Cheat, a river that requires flexibility concerning conditions. Although smaller than the Cheat, the Tygart
has the same gradient, offering a similar thrill. Water flow in the Tygart is generally high
enough to run only in March and April.
Russell Fork. Located in southeastern Kentucky, the Russell
Fork is dangerous and unpredictable.
There have been a number of fatalities on the Russell in recent years. For that reason, few companies run the
Russell anymore. Those that do charge a
premium price. Be forewarned that this
river is not for the novice. A violent
and scary run, think twice about attempting this river, and then only with an
experienced outfitter, like Mountain Streams,
P.O. Box 106, Ohiopyle, PA 15470-0106, 1-800-723-8669. Mountain Streams also services the Cheat and
the Tygart.
Nolichucky River. Near Erwin, TN, the Nolichucky can be a
surprisingly lively run. Although much
of the time it is Class III or less, a sudden mountain downpour can make the Chucky lots of fun. Chock full of Saint Bernard-size boulders,
low water makes for a bumpy and bruising ride.
Best bet is an early spring or mid fall trip, to catch the seasonal
rains and higher water. If you catch it
right, you'll enjoy an
almost continuous series of Class III and IV foam. The outfitter of choice here is USA Raft, who
has an outpost right on the banks of the river near Erwin.
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